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  • #16
    Originally posted by KenS View Post
    That's exactly what happened! But I was kind of amazed to find actually 4 shafts that were worn the exact same way ! One was a spare for his 56 Hawk, which was supposedly rebuilt, but it just had the bushings installed and used the original shaft, again, sloppy at the cinch bolt, the other three were pulled from 3 different 66's, all with less than 67K on them, all 3 worn exactly the same way at top.
    I do have to stop and think that all three were built in March, the latest being 3 days before the lines shut down for good, I guess I would not be too interested in tightening to spec either if I was losing my job in a few days. I had a plan to see a DelMarVa member in a few days, he had a machine shop where I had hoped to have him do the sleeve thing, but unfortunately he just closed his shop.
    Ken
    Depending on how bad the inside of the bell crank is, where it slips over the shaft ( how bell mouthed) you might try filing the cinch bolt gap wider, compressing the ends in a vice with the bolt out and honing it to square it up. The iron is pretty soft, I don't think it's worth trying to sleeve, you would have to split the sleeve anyway for the cinch bolt to pull it tight. Might not take very much honing, but may require using a different length bolt or one with a different shoulder length . A new crank would be best but don't know where to get one.

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    • #17
      SI has them $40 including shims and bearings, last ones I bought.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Alan View Post
        SI has them $40 including shims and bearings, last ones I bought.
        The cast bellcrank itself, the part that the reach rod and tie rods connect to with the cinch bolt in it. I think most of the diagrams list it as 1209-1X. I tried getting a new manual one several years ago and came up empty. If the used ones are all like Ken describes there must be a way to fix it or else we are in trouble

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        • #19
          I have got 2 or 3 of those too.

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          • #20
            Reading all 19 Posts, it seems Most everyone is talking about repairing or replacing the Shaft and mostly the Bearings or Bushings, it is actually the Bellcrank itself that karterfred88 and doofus are trying to say is the main problem.

            The Shaft & Bearings obviously also need replacement but the CAUSE is likely the Complete Bellcrank, and the Fact that it was not kept TIGHT
            StudeRich
            Second Generation Stude Driver,
            Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Alan View Post
              I have got 2 or 3 of those too.
              Got a manual steer Avanti one?? Still sitting on a brand new Astro gear box, I can't play with it without one-and a reachrod for same. Probably can make that though. Just another of my someday projects.

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              • #22
                Yes, and can make it with the tie rod coming from the bottom rather than the top to clear the HO pulley. The reason I have so many bell crank parts is I use R&P or Saggy manuel boxes on my Studes.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by jackb View Post
                  More likely is the fact that previous owners of all 3 cranks let them get loose and "hogged" out the 1/2 bore. I have a good P.S. bellcrank if you don't have a good 4th...
                  Appreciate the offer, I am getting a rebuild kit.
                  Kenneth Smolecki

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                  • #24
                    You're talking about a kit for the center bolt - I'm talking about the multi armed part that tie rods, pin, and PS cylinder and valve rod are attached to..

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