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  • Steering: Bell crank pivot

    While installing power steering on a friend's 66, I have found the bellcrank shafts worn to the point that the bellcrank cannot be tightened.
    I have checked 3 other shafts, all the same condition, all out of 66's with less than 67,000 miles, anyone else seen this?
    Kenneth Smolecki

  • #2
    ?, How do you tighten them? 66's probably used bushings, but I have seen the bearings in them too. Some pics. would be helpful.

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    • #3
      Originally posted by KenS View Post
      While installing power steering on a friend's 66, I have found the bellcrank shafts worn to the point that the bellcrank cannot be tightened.
      I have checked 3 other shafts, all the same condition, all out of 66's with less than 67,000 miles, anyone else seen this?
      Ken, there are no "adjustments" to be had, need a rebuild kit or an exchange rebuilt assembly. The only thing that gets loose that you can "tighten" is the cinch bolt on the bell crank to the shaft flat, that sometimes works loose. The big nut and cotter key just keeps it together, no tapered roller bearings in there to adjust for wear, only either bushings or needle bearings riding on the shaft. Happens on all Studebaker steering mechanisms, always has, always will, some how, the grease fitting that has to be reached through the hole on the cross member ( the one you have to remove to drop the assembly) gets forgotten, hastening wear. Cheer up the kit isn't expensive. Lots of posts upgrading and rebuilding them here and on Bob Johnstone's site. Used to go bad much faster the 60,000 miles--my 63 GT went through one in 20,000 back in 1966!!!

      http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50001003a

      http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50001003a
      Last edited by karterfred88; 06-24-2016, 05:49 PM.

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      • #4
        With either the bushed or bearing shafts, I use two above the zerk fitting and two below which in turn spreads the load over a wider surface. Secondly, be sure to use shims to ensure a snug but free fit above the pivot pin nut...

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        • #5
          Grumpyone has it, double up for long life BTDT . Luck Doofus

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          • #6
            I am not sure if this is your problem, but, you are supposed to use shims to control the up and down motion. See the shop manual for specifocs.
            78 Avanti RQB 2792
            64 Avanti R1 R5408
            63 Avanti R1 R4551
            63 Avanti R1 R2281
            62 GT Hawk V15949
            56 GH 6032504
            56 GH 6032588
            55 Speedster 7160047
            55 Speedster 7165279

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            • #7
              I guess I should have been clearer, I could not get the cinch bolt to tighten enough, I had the end play set ok with the shims, nut & cotter pin tightened, just could not get the cinch bolt tight enough, I was just surprised that on all 3 shafts the cinch bolt would not do it.
              Kenneth Smolecki

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              • #8
                I do like that idea though, more bushing area for support.
                Kenneth Smolecki

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by karterfred88 View Post
                  Ken, there are no "adjustments" to be had, need a rebuild kit or an exchange rebuilt assembly. The only thing that gets loose that you can "tighten" is the cinch bolt on the bell crank to the shaft flat, that sometimes works loose. The big nut and cotter key just keeps it together, no tapered roller bearings in there to adjust for wear, only either bushings or needle bearings riding on the shaft. Happens on all Studebaker steering mechanisms, always has, always will, some how, the grease fitting that has to be reached through the hole on the cross member ( the one you have to remove to drop the assembly) gets forgotten, hastening wear. Cheer up the kit isn't expensive. Lots of posts upgrading and rebuilding them here and on Bob Johnstone's site. Used to go bad much faster the 60,000 miles--my 63 GT went through one in 20,000 back in 1966!!!

                  http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50001003a

                  http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb....Z5Z5Z50001003a
                  I think with greasing it often enough, it would be ok once it's been rebuilt, When I took over my Dad's 66 wagon some 43+ years ago, I greased it once a month( I was a youngster then working in a gas station so it got the once over every month if not more frequently). Mechanically it was perfect, but the rust ate away at that car faster than I could wear it out.
                  Kenneth Smolecki

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Thanks to all for the help, much appreciated!


                    Fred are you going up to R.I.?, I have to pick up my grandson in MI, time to teach that boy about something other than computers (he's only 6, but thats when my Dad started me!
                    Kenneth Smolecki

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Here is an article about rebuilding the bell crank bearing unit for the pre 1963 Studebakers.
                      It used needle bearings instead of bushings and lasted longer.
                      If you can find one of these you can install these in the 1963-66 cars.
                      http://www.raylinrestoration.com/Tec...PinRebuild.htm and find the bell crank restore article
                      Make sure that you remove the grease fitting first.
                      Robert Kapteyn
                      Last edited by rkapteyn; 06-25-2016, 07:01 PM.

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                      • #12
                        Ken, your bell crank may have a worn out , hour glass shaped hole at pinch bolt. seen this once before, no amount of tightening would last. friend bored hole oversize and made sleeve we lock tighted in place. fix lasted years. Luck Doofus

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by doofus View Post
                          Ken, your bell crank may have a worn out , hour glass shaped hole at pinch bolt. seen this once before, no amount of tightening would last. friend bored hole oversize and made sleeve we lock tighted in place. fix lasted years. Luck Doofus
                          That's exactly what happened! But I was kind of amazed to find actually 4 shafts that were worn the exact same way ! One was a spare for his 56 Hawk, which was supposedly rebuilt, but it just had the bushings installed and used the original shaft, again, sloppy at the cinch bolt, the other three were pulled from 3 different 66's, all with less than 67K on them, all 3 worn exactly the same way at top.
                          I do have to stop and think that all three were built in March, the latest being 3 days before the lines shut down for good, I guess I would not be too interested in tightening to spec either if I was losing my job in a few days. I had a plan to see a DelMarVa member in a few days, he had a machine shop where I had hoped to have him do the sleeve thing, but unfortunately he just closed his shop.
                          Kenneth Smolecki

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                          • #14
                            More likely is the fact that previous owners of all 3 cranks let them get loose and "hogged" out the 1/2 bore. I have a good P.S. bellcrank if you don't have a good 4th...

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by KenS View Post
                              Thanks to all for the help, much appreciated!


                              Fred are you going up to R.I.?, I have to pick up my grandson in MI, time to teach that boy about something other than computers (he's only 6, but thats when my Dad started me!
                              Due to prior commitments, I'm going to have to pass on this years event.

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