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  • Body / Glass: Door locks rekeyed?

    Hello, I have an ignition key that does not work in the doors. Can the door locks be rekeyed to match the ignition or should I just buy a whole new set (doors and ignition core)?

    Thanks,
    Steve
    Steve Nowicki

    Davis, CA

    1963 Studebaker Cruiser
    289 V8 2bbl
    Flight-o-matic
    Twin Traction Dana 44
    Factory front power disc brakes
    Rose mist with Chestnut interior

  • #2
    With the labor prices in California, I'd buy a set of new door locks and rekey the switch tumbler to match, Ignition switch tumbler is easy to remove with switch out of dash, stick key in, depress tab and slide out tumbler. Then a local locksmith can make it all the same in his shop in about 5 minutes.-don't forget the trunk and glove box, make sure they work with whatever keys you have. Also make extra keys and stuff them away. Then just reinstall the ignition tumbler, reinstall the ignition switch into the dash, swap the door locks with the new ones. I don't think you can get a matching set of all three over the counter. Or you can pull the door locks and have the locksmith match your ignition key to them and put them back in--I like new on door locks.
    Last edited by karterfred88; 06-17-2016, 07:12 PM.

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    • #3
      I just had (last winter) a pair of truck door locks keyed the same... I picked the best looking of the collection of locks laying around & took them to a local locksmith. I did not have a key for either. It took almost a month & cost me $40; this is in Iowa.
      Now I gotta get the truck done!

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      • #4
        It is easiest to change the ignition lock to match the door locks if both door locks use the same key and work good.
        Read the following article and even if your Studebaker is not an Avanti the advice is the same,
        http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/...switchfix1.pdf

        Robert Kapteyn
        Last edited by rkapteyn; 06-18-2016, 04:34 AM.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by rkapteyn View Post
          It is easiest to change the ignition lock to match the door locks if both door locks use the same key and work good.
          Read the following article and even if your Studebaker is not an Avanti the advice is the same,
          http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/...switchfix1.pdf

          Robert Kapteyn
          I agree--except he only has an ignition key-no door lock key, so one way or another the door lock needs to come out, to either change tumblers to the ignition key, or make a key for them, and rekey the ignition.

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          • #6
            I've had keys made for door locks at a locksmith in a hour or less. If you want the ignition key to fit the doors, just take the locks to the locksmith with the key you want to work. Ask about price and figure out which is the best way to go.
            sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
            1950 Champion Convertible
            1950 Champion 4Dr
            1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
            1957 Thunderbird

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            • #7
              I'd stick with OEM door locks, if possible. The repros are no where near as functional as the OEM. At least the two pairs I bought were not. Maybe a good locksmith could loosen the repros up a bit though.

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              • #8
                CASO Fix:
                Remove the door lock and disassemble. Insert ignition key. File the pins that stick above the surface. Reassemble and install. The lock only helps to keep the 'honest people honest.' Anyone intent on gaining access will do so regardless of whether there are a few or many pins keeping the lock from turning. BTW, I was amused when a local Studebaker owner commented about the trunk lock on our similar '64 Daytona's. He then promptly inserted his key into my trunk, turned the lock and it immediately opened. So much for OEM integrity. His car was built in South Bend, mine in Hamilton. Not likely there was a "similarity" error on a common assembly line.
                '64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by wittsend View Post
                  CASO Fix:
                  Remove the door lock and disassemble. Insert ignition key. File the pins that stick above the surface. Reassemble and install. The lock only helps to keep the 'honest people honest.' Anyone intent on gaining access will do so regardless of whether there are a few or many pins keeping the lock from turning. BTW, I was amused when a local Studebaker owner commented about the trunk lock on our similar '64 Daytona's. He then promptly inserted his key into my trunk, turned the lock and it immediately opened. So much for OEM integrity. His car was built in South Bend, mine in Hamilton. Not likely there was a "similarity" error on a common assembly line.
                  I noticed long ago, just about any key that will go in the hole, will open most Hawk trunks.

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                  • #10
                    Hello, I just ordered the matching set from SI. My local locksmith said that it would be a real expensive pain, so for a modest amount, I have all of them matching. My trunk and glove box are already matching on another key. Real Valet setup. Thanks, Steve
                    Steve Nowicki

                    Davis, CA

                    1963 Studebaker Cruiser
                    289 V8 2bbl
                    Flight-o-matic
                    Twin Traction Dana 44
                    Factory front power disc brakes
                    Rose mist with Chestnut interior

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Mcwicki51 View Post
                      Hello, I just ordered the matching set from SI. My local locksmith said that it would be a real expensive pain, so for a modest amount, I have all of them matching. My trunk and glove box are already matching on another key. Real Valet setup. Thanks, Steve
                      The repro door locks I bought are so tight, its hard to know whether the key will twist, or the lock will turn. No amount nor type of lubrication helped. I got around the problem with remote controlled, electric locks, which are the, "cats meow" anyway.

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                      • #12
                        While working on my '66 sedan, the pot metal was pitted on the original bezels & I picked up nice replacements at the May swap meet, but they didn't match. Like mentioned above, I used my ignition key as a "master" & filed off the tumblers so the key would then work in both locks.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by wittsend View Post
                          CASO Fix:
                          ... BTW, I was amused when a local Studebaker owner commented about the trunk lock on our similar '64 Daytona's. He then promptly inserted his key into my trunk, turned the lock and it immediately opened. So much for OEM integrity...
                          ha ha...that reminds me back in 1983 when my wife graduated from university she wanted a 240z Datsun. We found a nice one on the used car lot of our local Datsun dealer. While waiting for a sales guy to help us I was sitting in the seat of the 240 dreaming about driving it...took the key from my 710 Datsun that I drove to the dealership that day...slid it in the ignition, twisted it and the car purred to life! Just then the sales guy is coming back with a puzzled look on his face with the 240 keys in his hand and me sitting in the car with it already running. Was about 1/2 hr to closing time on sat. afternoon...he looked at me and said "I trust this car will be here Monday morning with the same mileage that it has on it today". I just smiled...the thought did cross my mind. Cheers, Junior
                          sigpic
                          1954 C5 Hamilton car.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            What year vehicle are we talking about here?
                            I do not know the exact year but I think Studebaker went to the new style door locks in 1963.
                            These locks are hard to rekey because you have to drill a hole to get the guts out.
                            The 1963 locks were Yale and in 1964 they switched to Briggs and Stratton locks.
                            Bean counters no doubt.
                            They used Briggs locks in 1964-66 but later in 1966 production switched back to Yale locks. Bean counters probably found a left over bunch of 1963 locks and decided to use those up.
                            Are far as I remember on some models they kept using Yale locks for the trunk and glove box. Keys numbers starting with "1" are Yale and starting with "4" are Briggs and Stratton.The key blanks are different between Yale and Briggs.
                            If your order the production order from the museum,the key numbers are shown on them.
                            Don't take this as fact because I may be wrong and thew this out for comments by experts.
                            Robert Kapteyn

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by junior View Post
                              ...took the key from my 710 Datsun that I drove to the dealership that day...slid it in the ignition, twisted it and the car purred to life! ... Cheers, Junior
                              I had a Datsun 510 that started many a like car. Not the best thing though. While two friends argued who was going to move their car so the other could get out of the driveway..., I jumped in one and proceed to back it up. My intention was to keep two friends from agitating each other. Anyway, as I backed the car up the rear door that someone had left open (and I didn't notice) caught a chain link fence and ruined the door. $30 to replace it doesn't sound like much but back then it was about two and a half days pay. So, just because you have the key..., doesn't mean you should always use it.
                              '64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.

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