Headlights will turn off Intermittently

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

OK, I will go take them all out then

You might as well do that.
By installing the 30 amp CB what you have done is the same as splicing the wires and having no protection in the circuit.
If there would be a direct short the 18ga wire in the headlight circuit will overheat and possibly melt before the 30 amp cb trips. Depending on the length of the wire.
The object of a CB is to protect the circuit based on wire size and amperage draw.

[Warren Webb]

Cleaning all the wiring connections is a good idea. I would carry that a bit further & coat the connections with dielectric grease. That would help prevent any further corrosion. Does your car have halogen sealed beams? I've read a lot here in the forum on how much more power (in amps) they require but have never seen anyone post exactly how much vs. a standard sealed beam. I have them on most of my Studes & never encountered a problem with the lamps. Overheating issues yes, headlamp issues no.

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

Halogen vs standard headlights.
Original lamp: 50/40 watt, 4.2/3.3amps
Sylvania Silverstar [modern lamp]: 55/45 watt, 4.3/3.5 amps
Halogen lamp: 60/55 watt, 5/4.5 amp
If you do nothing else at least install new lamps. Old lamps dim as they age.

[kamzack]

You are within 20 miles of one of the most knowledgable Studebaker guys in the country. He's just north of Newberry.
Call him at 352-472-9369 Stephen Cade. He's outa pocket til Saturday. Has all the parts you need and can fix anything Studebaker. You'll need to see their collection of cars and trucks as well.
Hopes this helps,
Kim

[Quentin]

Hello Guys,

My name is Kyle just joined here @ SDC, I got a 1963 Studebaker Lark in on trade a few days ago and i am waiting to get it back to being a daily driver. So down too the issue at hand. my headlights seem to have a mind of there own when the car is sitting still engine not running headlight will come on and everything works ( except brake lights but ill come back to this) if you crank the car as soon as the car runs the headlights will go off and on randomly.
Thanks in advance and look forward to growing and learning here at SDC

How long does it take for the headlights to come back on? Are they coming back on immediately, i.e with a wiggle here and there? The reason I ask is, if it is the overload circuit breaker kicking in, these take some time to reset themselves, as they operate on bi-metal and heat to trip. You'll be waiting a minute or so for the circuit breaker to reset itself before you have headlights again.

[52 Ragtop]

You might want to check the dimmer switch too! Better yet, just buy one and replace it.

Jim

[JoeHall]

There was a known problem with headlight circuit breakers in the 1963 models. The breaker is just barely adequate in ideal conditions. Recommended solution: buy a "dual headlight relay", which used to be a commonplace aftermarket part, or failing that, two of the ubiquitous Bosch "cube" relays. One relay (or half the dual unit) for low beams, and the other for the high beams. This will allow you to run high-wattage halogen headlights if you wish, and reduces the current load on the factory 20-amp breaker to an amp or two for tail + park and instrument lamps. If you buy new relays, there should be a wiring diagram packed with them.

That is my point, I believe the 20 amp CB has always been barely adequate, beginning in 1956, with the first year of the twelve volt for Stude. That is why the 56J, only 12 years old in the late 1960s had the problem. That is also why it only happened in that 56J when the high beams were on, and not the low beams. "Clean the connections" on a 12 year old car (at that time) woulda been ridiculous, and not addressing the real problem today.

I have been using 30 amp CBs for over 30 years, and nearly 700,000 miles now, without any problem whatsoever. I have also been running halogens in the Studes now, for over ten years, and no problems. They are indeed brighter.

[doofus]

Start with circuit breaker replacement, next check switch itself, they are known problem areas,Grand sons 63 has a melted switch!! once gas tank is cleaned and coated i'll get grand daughter to replace it! a corroded t/s switch will cause brake light problems but is cleanable with due caution. keep us updated please this will be a page turner!! Luck Doofus

[JoeHall]

The wife's first 63GT began to kick the CB off, about ten years ago. It turned out to be the switch itself. With the 30 amp CB, the switch heated up enough that I could feel it around the bezel. NO, the entire headlight wiring circuit did not turn into a, "toaster". I belive the Stude engineers underestimated on the 20 amp CB, but as is often the case, over engineered on the wiring, as a safety factor. What do I know, not much.

[64V-K7]

Inever failed to stop the problem..

There's no issue with the functioning of a 30 amp breaker, but if something decided to pull that much amperage, you'd see a lot of smoke.

[63studebaker]

Thank You! ill be sure to give him a call.

[63studebaker]

Okay guy i will replaced the circuit breaker first. sould be able to replace it tonight after work. Werid thing is if the car is just sitting ( w/o engine running ) the headlights will seem to stay on but ive never left it on long in fear of draining the battery. ( would it hurt to hook a small charger to the battery and turn on the headlights ( car still NOT running and just see if the headlights will act up. Now if i crank the car. the headlights might stay on a few mins then they might go to flashings or might black out ( theres no countable time until they come back on) but they will. then might stay on a few mins the go out ( may try to make a video and upload it some way)

im going to get some help tonight ti look at the rear while i look at the front to try and get a better idea of everything that goes out when the headlights do..
Thanks everyone for all the help here, didnt expected so many comments i better start staying glued to this forum now!!!

[rstrasser]

63 Studebaker;
If you have a fully charged battery there should not be any problem with leaving the head lights on for a 1/2 hour. I see no reason to connect a battery charger into the circuit and add another unknown element. I admit I do not fully understand what you are saying when you say if you crank the engine the headlights my or my not go out. Is the engine running when the lights go out?
Blinking could be caused by a bad contact anywhere in the headlight electric system; even inside the circuit breaker.
I do not recommend using a 30 amp breaker. It is akin to placing a penny under the fuse in your houses electric panel. If you do make sure you use a copper penny.
Ron

[JoeHall]

63 Studebaker;
If you have a fully charged battery there should not be any problem with leaving the head lights on for a 1/2 hour. I see no reason to connect a battery charger into the circuit and add another unknown element. I admit I do not fully understand what you are saying when you say if you crank the engine the headlights my or my not go out. Is the engine running when the lights go out?
Blinking could be caused by a bad contact anywhere in the headlight electric system; even inside the circuit breaker.
I do not recommend using a 30 amp breaker. It is akin to placing a penny under the fuse in your houses electric panel. If you do make sure you use a copper penny.
Ron

Our Stude headlight circuits use 14 gauge wire. Per a kajillion charts on the internet, 14 gauge wire, up to 7 feet long, can handle 50 amps, at 12 volts, and result in less than 3-5% voltage drop. The longer the wire (any gauge), the less amps it can handle, due to increased voltage drop, predictably inherent with increased length.

Soo, when increasing a Stude CB to 30 amps, where should I look for fireworks to begin??? Hint, it will NOT be in the 14 gauge wire. This empirical info is consistent with my personal experience, mentioned above.

[gordr]

Joe, are you sure that wire is 14 gauge? Looks more like 16 to me. I still stand behind the use of headlight relays. Mount the relay close to the headlights, so the voltage drop in the skinny wire is limited to a short run. Connect the "hot" side of the relay to the battery using #10 or #12 wire and a 30 amp fuse or breaker. You will enjoy brighter lights, including brighter tail lights, because the current drain of the headlamps is no longer pulling down the voltage at the headlight switch. There's a reason nearly all modern cars use headlight relays.