Low compression on 3,5, and 7.

[64V-K7]

New gaskets..............

I always found that cleaning the cover gasket seats very well, use the neoprene gaskets, glue the gaskets to the covers with whatever ( I use BLUE RTV), let them set overnight, then set the covers on the head and tighten only about 10-15 inch lbs. No glue on the head side, just clean rubber to clean steel. Next day tighten them up again as they will compress a bit and loosen. I've never had a leaking VC....

[Mcwicki51]

Hello, I just finished with my diagnostic and adjustment procedures. The lash was very tight on 3, 5 and 7. There were others that were tight, but nothing like the down cylinders. Compression test following adjustment increased #3 from 90 to 110. #5 from 100 to 110. #7 went from 120 to 130.

There is more valve tickin on start up.

The timing did not change.

I then checked for combustion gas leaks and did not detect any in the radiator while running the motor for 2
mins. Head gasket is OK.

I then topped the oil off with a can of Rislone and put some MMO in the gas tank.

I am going to cross my fingers but I have a good lead on rebuilt 1557570 heads to replace mine. I will refurb mine and keep them on the side.

Anything that you guys think that I missed?

Thanks again,
Steve

[JoeHall]

Hello, I just finished with my diagnostic and adjustment procedures. The lash was very tight on 3, 5 and 7. There were others that were tight, but nothing like the down cylinders. Compression test following adjustment increased #3 from 90 to 110. #5 from 100 to 110. #7 went from 120 to 130.

There is more valve tickin on start up.

The timing did not change.

I then checked for combustion gas leaks and did not detect any in the radiator while running the motor for 2
mins. Head gasket is OK.

I then topped the oil off with a can of Rislone and put some MMO in the gas tank.

I am going to cross my fingers but I have a good lead on rebuilt 1557570 heads to replace mine. I will refurb mine and keep them on the side.

Anything that you guys think that I missed?

Thanks again,
Steve

That motor sounds worn in, but certainly not worn out. A light tick is a good thing, after a fresh valve adjustment. Now that those three valves can slam closed all the way, the compression may go up a bit more after they hammer themselves back in.

You do not need heads, or anything else but gas & oil. That car is now good to go. Let us know your Studebaker driving impressions after after you complete the first 1000 miles, then the next 10,000 miles

[jclary]

I had to google Davis, Ca. to get a sense of where you are in the vastness of California. Just to confirm the adjustments you've made, and, assuming your other tune-up specs are correct, why not button every thing up, and hit the road for a lengthy workout. Interstate 5 up toward Willows, or any other interesting stretch of highway. You seem to be ideally located for interesting choices for any direction the compass points. Give 'er a good romp and let us know if her attitude has improved.

[Mcwicki51]

Thank you.

[karterfred88]

Please wave at the Blue Max Go-Kart track if you pass by it-many fond memories of racing there.

[voxnut]

Please wave at the Blue Max Go-Kart track if you pass by it-many fond memories of racing there.

I was just out there at the end of May running my annual vintage kart meet. They recently repaved the track and it's really fun now. Steve actually dropped by in the Cruiser on Friday!

[karterfred88]

I was just out there at the end of May running my annual vintage kart meet. They recently repaved the track and it's really fun now. Steve actually dropped by in the Cruiser on Friday!
[ATTACH=CONFIG]55372[/ATTACH]

Just looked at the club site, major differences since I raced there, Dixon and Prairie City in the 90's.

[sals54]

I just found this thread. Glad to hear you found the trouble to be an easy fix. I've always found that the Studebaker V8 seems to like robust driving. I would not abuse it, but don't baby it either. These early V8s don't respond well to lazy driving. It causes carbon build up and sludge in the oil. Spirited driving will keep the engine at a happy operating temperature and good amounts of cylinder pressure will help prevent carbon.
Now, do your duty, and spin the tires and do some donuts in the nearest parking lot. Just kidding of course.
BTW, we were just in Davis a couple days ago to have Woodstocks Pizza. The best Pizza joint in the world.

[karterfred88]

Woodstocks Pizza. The best Pizza joint in the world.

Obviously not from NY or NJ, lived in California for 37 years, one good pizza, in San Francisco. Not that the thousands of others I ate weren't tasty, just not pizza.

[RadioRoy]

You might also want to recheck the valve clearances after they have had a chance to re-seat themselves. The ones that were out of spec might drift for a while, or drift more than the others.

BTW, I always consider a ticking valve to be a valve that's not burning, so a little lifter noise doesn't bother me.

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

I can't remember who, but someone very knowledgeable on the site said:
If you can't hear a slight tick when the engine is cold, the valves are too tight.
If can hear a slight tick when the engine is hot, the valves are too loose.
Like a finely tuned sewing machine.

[Mcwicki51]

You might also want to recheck the valve clearances after they have had a chance to re-seat themselves. The ones that were out of spec might drift for a while, or drift more than the others.

BTW, I always consider a ticking valve to be a valve that's not burning, so a little lifter noise doesn't bother me.

Every week the motor seems to be smoothing out. It was much better this morning. I upgraded to an MSD streetfire CD box and blaster coil. I am running it through the stock prestolite distributor. Idle is much smoother with no rocking. Starting cold is more crisp on the first try. Acceleration is better. The valve noise is far less once warm. I will recheck the valve lash this weekend.

I am a very happy Stude driver!

Steve