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62 GT Hawk 289 engine with leaking oil under engine and transmission

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  • Engine: 62 GT Hawk 289 engine with leaking oil under engine and transmission

    Hi Folks
    I am a novice trying to buy a 62-64 GT Hawk with 289 or R-! Jet Thrust
    Most I have looked at have over 85,00 miles (normal) and it is hard to tell if it is from engine, Transmission,power steering or other hydraulics.
    What is "normal leakage" for this model?

    Is one table spoon normal after a drive?

    Which of this this list is most expensive to fix
    engine main seal

    engine front seal

    Oil pan leak

    Transmission leak

    Power steering leak

    Other source of leak

    Recently infected with the GT virus and you help is appreciated

    Thank You in advance

    Joe

  • #2
    Hard to say. They are all "common" at some point in a car's life. First you need to see where it is leaking from. Put it up on a lift of a local repair facility. If engine oil, could be the drain plug, valve cover gasket (common) or any of your suggested areas, All are common to 50 plus year old cars. Is it automatic or manual? Trans leaks on A/T are common for the pan gasket and the dipstick tube to pan flange nut. Power steering hose seepage common, valve on steering box leakage common- all easy and relatively inexpensive fixes (but messy) Are you ready to do repairs yourself, or have a mechanic that works on old technology cars? Most of us are do-it-yourselfers. Welcome to the forum, if you do give in to your infection, come back with more particulars, we'll see what we can help you with. Remember, unless you're buying a fully restored, fully rebuilt and reconditioned (very expensive to do) car-it will be no better or worse than any early 60s car to fix and upkeep.

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    • #3
      Joe,
      That`s like asking how much air do you breath !!!
      Are you running or walking ??????
      What might be expensive would all depend on whether you were going to fix them or pay someone else !!!
      And for a 50 odd year old car some leaks must be expected.
      And even that would depend on if and how it was maintained in the past.
      If you have already bought this car then it`s best to clean as much as you can off to determine where exactly any leaks are coming from.
      If you haven`t and are about to then I would make an issue of it to the seller and let him sort it out prior to you purchasing it.
      Of course there is also the bargaining factor you may apply too
      Geoff

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      • #4
        A tablespoon of oil on the ground is not unusual for a Stude, especially with an engine that hasn't had new gaskets or seals for many years. I've lived with leaks, especially from rear main/pan area in several Studes (I just spent a lot of time on my back wiping the underside clean). Another area to check is the front seal, and the fuel pumps on V8s.
        I eventually repair the leaks when I have the time to tackle whatever the problem is. Studebaker service manuals are well written so even a novice can do many repairs on there cars.

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        • #5
          If I can help, I am near LAX. 310-645-3438

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          • #6
            With cost of labour, the rear seal will cost the most, I would imagine.
            But start simple - it is highly likely that at some stage over the past 50 years someone has over tightened the oil pan and transmission pan bolts, which need minimal torque. As both pans are made of soft metal, this "pulls" all the bolt holes so that the surfaces are no longer flat and therefore hard to seal. Both my pans needed several hours of gentle tapping, file work and checking with a set square to get back to true. Also, not having even torque on all bolts can create leak issues as well. Both my drain plugs also leaked until using new crush washers.
            Good luck.

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            • #7
              Welcome Joe to the world of Studebaker "Nuts". drive that puppy then park over a big piece of cardboard, this will help spot leaks. a leaking rear main is most common in "As Is " Studes.pan R&R on hawk is fairly easy, timing cover seal probably the hardest to repair. keep us informed and we'll talk you through it all. Good Luck, Doofus

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              • #8
                Just add oil, put a pan under it when parked and the oil under the car will keep the floor from rusting out.

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                • #9
                  Some cars were destined to be collector classics. Those cars preserved themselves by sending oil all over the underside of the car to protect it from outside elements. Now, if it would have thrown a little oil on the rear edge of the front fenders and onto the corners of the floor pans and inside the bottoms of the doors it would have been appreciated.
                  sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
                  1950 Champion Convertible
                  1950 Champion 4Dr
                  1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
                  1957 Thunderbird

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                  • #10
                    Joseph,

                    Most of us old timers just live with a reasonable amount of seepage. No expert here, although I have replaced the rear main seal and pan gasket on two cars. Herein lies the problem with doing this job with the engine still installed, it's a pain to do, with no assurance that what you do will solve the problem. The level of precision in doing the job is limited at best. When finished with the job it's just a matter of keeping your fingers crossed in the hope that you have gotten most of the leak stopped. I'm sure that will hear from people that are confident that they can get a leak stopped by rolling the RM in, and replacing the PG this way, but I have not seen it. To do the job right and stop all of the leaks, the engine needs to be out of the car and flipped upside down to hold everything together and allow you to add extra RTV or whatever type of sealant you choose.

                    The front seal can be done with engine in car, however it is a messy job! The felt seal is not a forever thing either. Or you can install a newer type seal in the timing cover which should work better. There is more to the FS project then I want to go into.

                    Bottom line is that only you can decide what level of seepage you will be satisfied with, and what you are willing to go through to be satisfied. Studebaker is a decent car but nobody should expect perfection from a fifty plus year old car. Good to have you with us, and good luck.

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                    • #11
                      Joe, I too have a GT Hawk; a 63. Regarding drips, even though I have replace all fuel lines, trans lines, power steering lines etc. There is a minimal amount of weeping that you can expect. Though a 63 GT Hawk cost about $3600 when new, I recently had the transmission and torque converter totally repaired. That cost was more than the car at $3750.00. About 6 yeas ago I had the same work on my 64 Avanti R2, that was $4000.00
                      Repairs are not inexpensive, look for no bargains and ask around for reliability and proven work history.
                      Enjoy,
                      Mark

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                      • #12
                        Joe as an aside, i am a Stude owner ,5 at present 3 drivers 2 in the works. my wife and i walk the neighborhood daily for a health boost or so i'm told. it's amazing how much oil is left on the pavement by the modern cars foreign and domestic. dont sweat the small stuff,you can learn all kinds of new tricks being a stude owner, not to mention new words. go for it and don't look back, or down. Luck Doofus

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                        • #13
                          Mine Marks its territory. I don't worry about it.

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                          • #14
                            Both Doug and I can help you with your decision on buying a GT Hawk. I've owned my 62 GT over 40 years and have owned several others over the years so I'm experienced with the common leak areas. I'm in southwest Hawthorne, if I can help you, send me a PM. Bud

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                            • #15
                              I think the poster gave up on his thread.

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