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64 Hawk bolts for frame to body/chassis

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  • Frame / Springs: 64 Hawk bolts for frame to body/chassis

    So i'm in the middle of a complete frame off restoration of a 64 GT Hawk. Over the last few months the body shop has taken the car apart, removing the frame and mounting the chassis to a jig so the floorpans, rockers and trunk floor could be replaced. They will be ready to put it back on the frame soon, and i need to buy all new pads and bolts, but have nothing to go by - they cut/disposed of the old ones and i can't find a "kit" that would include the bolts/nuts/pads...

    Anyone know what i need to buy from Studebaker International?
    -Rory

    64 GT Hawk (currently undergoing frame-off restoration; won't make South Bend this year)
    289, 4 barrel, dual exhaust, ps, pdb, originally Astra White/Laguna Blue, DSO E.St.Louis IL

    sigpic

  • #2
    It's a shame that they discarded all the original ones being that the pads are set to align the body & have different widths for the alignment. As far as the bolts go, if you have a parts manual that gives the dimensions & spec's of the bolts which vary slightly with each location. Some have captive nuts in the frame while others have nut, bolt, flat & or lock washers.
    59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
    60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
    61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
    62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
    62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
    62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
    63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
    63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
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    66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
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    • #3
      As Warren said, it would be nice to have reference but I'll bet you would not have put them back anyway. I think the bolts with captured nuts are NF but don't remember the diameter. Because they did extensive body work the old spacers probably won't fit where they were originally.

      I'll assume they braced the body. The way I did mine was to lower the body onto the frame with a few pieces of all-thread in the frame to guide the body down. with the body dropping level to the ground the first point of contact with the frame will get one rubber spacer. All the rest will get one rubber spacer and enough metal spacers to allow the body to be level when bolted down.

      Rubber spacers can be cut from old tire sidewalls or, as I did, use old conveyor belting. Metal spacers are just pieces of metal with a hole drilled to allow the bolt to pass through. Thickness can vary or just use a few of them by stacking.

      When it looks good, tighten the bolts uniformly and hang the doors. They should be square to the body if all was done correctly. If not, loosen the bolts and shim to allow correct gaps.

      Don't loosen a bolt or two at a time or you'll be chasing issues forever. If the doors are on initially, so much the better.

      Bob

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      • #4
        Rory. If there is a large truck repair shop or dealership near you stop and see if they have any old rear mud flaps that they are throwing out. Most are rubber with a few being plastic. You should be able to cut your rubber pads out of the rubber ones and maybe make a shim out of the plastic. Most dealerships throw them away by the ton.

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        • #5
          Your body and chassis catalogs will have the specs for the hardware.
          Have you joined our Keystone Region Chapter of SDC? We do have members in Muncy. In fact, Muncy is where I bought my '53 and Jersey Shore is where I bought my '51.
          See Ed Fish at Eck's; he could probably fix you up with a discarded mud flap to make body shims.
          "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

          Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
          Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
          '33 Rockne 10,
          '51 Commander Starlight,
          '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
          '56 Sky Hawk

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          • #6
            Thanks for the input. i did order some spacer pads in different thicknesses, but probably don't have enough. I was hoping for more info on the bolts - i did get an email from someone who said there were (6) 3/8-24 x3inch, and (8) 3/8-24 x1inch, grade 5, but i'm not sure that's enough info (are any flanged or shoulder? is 24 thread NF?). I did order a body and chassis manual so i'll see if i can figure it out from there.
            -Rory

            64 GT Hawk (currently undergoing frame-off restoration; won't make South Bend this year)
            289, 4 barrel, dual exhaust, ps, pdb, originally Astra White/Laguna Blue, DSO E.St.Louis IL

            sigpic

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            • #7
              So if i decrypted the chassis manual correctly, this is what i came up with:
              2 - 7/16"-20 x 5-1/4"
              2 - 3/8"-24 x 2"
              10 - 3/8"-24 x 1-1/2"

              Course these are not standard lengths, and i had to do some searching to find a supplier online, but they are bought and shipped, and I should have them next week.
              -Rory

              64 GT Hawk (currently undergoing frame-off restoration; won't make South Bend this year)
              289, 4 barrel, dual exhaust, ps, pdb, originally Astra White/Laguna Blue, DSO E.St.Louis IL

              sigpic

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              • #8
                been working on a 64 Hawk for a couple years. It will be Laguna Blue with a white vinyl top. goes to paint shop next week. fun when they can move around again under their own power! Good Luck!

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                • #9
                  Jeffry How about some pictures. I'am also doing a 64 hawk. Been in progress for a few years. Had a good start before cancer with both myself and my wife and life in general sort or kicked my butt. Plan now is to have it ready for South Bend 2017. It's slowly getting closer to being back on the road.

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