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Adding Dual Master Cylinder

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  • t walgamuth
    replied
    I've done this conversion with at least three cars, one was the 64 cruiser. Its not too hard to find a bolt on replacement from a slightly newer car such as a 69 or so Bronco or Scout. You need a T and a brake line too to insert below the MC. Bout an hour job iirc.

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  • bezhawk
    replied
    I have used this adapter on at least three different cars, and had no troubles with either Wilwood, or Tilton master cylinders

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  • Mcwicki51
    replied
    Thank you!

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  • karterfred88
    replied
    Originally posted by Mcwicki51 View Post
    The Wilwood has a bore of 1.125" and a stroke of 1.100". Is this stroke too short to work?
    Don't know, the "adapter bracket" is designed around that spec. Others may have actually tried it, but they need to have done it using the factory disc brake setup to be factual. That last .15 isn't much, and I doubt the full travel is ever used as long as pads are new and rear linings adjusted right. Me, I'd use the tried and true M/Cs, pop on a chrome cap and maybe get one to experiment with-you'll always be able to go back.
    Last edited by karterfred88; 05-25-2016, 10:38 AM.

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  • Mcwicki51
    replied
    The Wilwood has a bore of 1.125" and a stroke of 1.100". Is this stroke too short to work?

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  • karterfred88
    replied
    Originally posted by Mcwicki51 View Post
    I do like the idea of a black billet Wilwood. However, how do you accommodate the thickness of the plate and the pushrod length? Is the rod coming out of the booster adjustable?

    Thanks.
    To some degree. If it is too large a gap you can make something to extend it. It has a threaded shaft to work with.A lot of M/Cs used in the after market systems, also come with "slugs" ( fit in the recess of the piston" with different lengths to help for that problem. If you go that route be sure to match the bore size to the factory size. The original Bendix system design paper shows a Master bore of 1 1/8" and stroke of 1.25"
    Last edited by karterfred88; 05-25-2016, 08:50 AM.

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  • Mcwicki51
    replied
    I do like the idea of a black billet Wilwood. However, how do you accommodate the thickness of the plate and the pushrod length? Is the rod coming out of the booster adjustable?

    Thanks.

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  • bezhawk
    replied
    Summit sells an adapter that converts four stud mounting of master cylinders, to two stud mounting. Then your selection is greater, and you can even mount a fancy Wilwood master if so inclined.
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-5249315

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  • Mcwicki51
    replied
    This has been a great link. http://m.studebakerparts.com/studeba...s/dskdual.html

    Thank you!

    Steve

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  • thunderations
    replied
    Just did this on my 66 Daytona using a mid 70's Mopar master cylinder. Studebakerparts.com has a detailed article on the conversion. Use the "Help with Studebakers pages" link. Check it out.
    Last edited by thunderations; 05-24-2016, 04:05 PM.

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  • raoul5788
    replied
    Welcome to the forum Steve!
    Flat Ernie is right, Jim Turner is the guy to talk to.

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  • karterfred88
    replied
    Most any of the Stude vendors can supply you with the Master and some, whole kits with the lines preformed. Welcome to the forum.

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  • Flat Ernie
    replied
    http://www.turnerbrake.com/mcbrackets.html

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  • Mcwicki51
    started a topic Brakes: Adding Dual Master Cylinder

    Adding Dual Master Cylinder

    Hello,

    I am new to the forum. Please apologize if this has been covered in the past. I just purchased a 1963 Cruiser. It has the original power booster and front disc brakes. Very nice options from the factory. It appears that it is still a single cylinder master. As I move through the mechanicals, I am making a list of safety, cosmetic and performance upgrades that I want to do. In addition to all of the regular catch up maintenance that needs to be verified and completed.

    My main question is whether there is a straight forward way to upgrade the master cylinder to a dual chambered version? I would like to keep the stock power booster. I am aware that I am going to have to plumb the front and rear separately. I am also going to need either a proportioning valve and residual pressure valves.

    I really appreciate the advice and I look forward to many years of learning.

    Thanks,
    Steve

    Davis, CA
    1963 Studebaker Cruiser
    Last edited by Mcwicki51; 05-24-2016, 12:39 PM.
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