Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Radiator Cap ID (Was: "Don't Know")
Collapse
X
-
Original type 4 lb one way cap with no drainback provisions for catch cans, that came about years later in the mid 60s. If you put a radiator overflow bottle on your car, this cap won't work.Bez Auto Alchemy
573-318-8948
http://bezautoalchemy.com
"Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln
-
The Studebaker Vendors at: http://studebakervendors.com have the correct Cap for a stock '54 Radiator that has the unusual 1 Inch Neck, so the Cap cannot be the Standard on Newer Cars 3/4 Inch reach Cap, the correct one is 7 Lbs. but you could use a 4 Lb. as long as it is 1 Inch Reach.
Unless a Cap has a Rubber Seal under the Top plate as Bez mentioned, it will not work with an overflow Tank, but these Cars never had one, just a to the ground overflow pipe.
Your Cap is ancient, but not the correct type. If you have excess to a Radiator and Cap Pressure tester, you can find out if it even works.StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
Comment
-
Thanks all of you for the information. I have no intention of using this cap, I just had no idea how or why it was designed and what it's purpose was. I started the little 232 and it purred like a kitten. Then I noticed a rubber expansion plug on each side of the engine. I shut it down and removed the cap and it was full of rust. Looks as if the PO had some rusted out freeze plugs and took the easy way out. What kind of Freeze plugs would you folks use? Looks like I am in for a nasty clean out job. All of the wiring going across the fan shroud had been cut except the ignition wires. Don't know why but it is very brittle stuff. Could not find a resistor on the fire wall or in the ignition wiring any where. Car starts fine but I have to wonder what has been done to it. Twelve volt conversion may be in order. Thanks again, Stude Rookie
Comment
-
Originally posted by Stude Rookie View PostCould not find a resistor on the fire wall or in the ignition wiring any where.
That's a nice looking hardtop!
Comment
-
Originally posted by Stude Rookie View PostLooks like I am in for a nasty clean out job.All of the wiring going across the fan shroud had been cut except the ignition wires."All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory
Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
'33 Rockne 10,
'51 Commander Starlight,
'53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
'56 Sky Hawk
Comment
-
I suggest/recommend repairing your 6 volt system. There is no need to go to 12 volts.
The car appears to be quite stock/original/authentic. It won't be with a 12 volt conversion.Gary L.
Wappinger, NY
SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer
Comment
-
Originally posted by rockne10 View PostNot necessarily; PO may have already done that. Those rubber plugs will be fine, until they start to weep. I would live with them for the time being. Other than the wires to the regulator and generator, that would mean you have no lights up front--headlights, parking lights, signals. If you do, I would guess the PO simply ran a new hidden harness.
Comment
-
Originally posted by studegary View PostI suggest/recommend repairing your 6 volt system. There is no need to go to 12 volts.
The car appears to be quite stock/original/authentic. It won't be with a 12 volt conversion.
Comment
-
It is your choice as to 6 or 12 volt.
Before you make any hasty moves you should first make sure you have the correct size battery cables for 6 volt. Size 0, pronounced 1/0 [1 ought]. 2/0 is better.
The cable will be about the size of a sharpie marker. DO NOT use the cheap battery terminals found at the auto parts counter.
Then make sure all the connections are clean, bright and tight. No paint, oil, grease etc, etc.
Make sure all the grounding straps in place [engine to frame] and are clean and tight. Move the positive battery ground to a starter mount bolt.
6 volt positive ground alternators are readily available and are a good idea.
For air conditioning http://www.retroair.com/prewarcarac192050s.html clearly states on their site that their system can work with a 6 volt system.
For sounds, a lot of modern systems will work off 6 volt.South Lompoc Studebaker
Comment
-
Originally posted by 55 56 PREZ 4D View PostIt is your choice as to 6 or 12 volt.
Before you make any hasty moves you should first make sure you have the correct size battery cables for 6 volt. Size 0, pronounced 1/0 [1 ought]. 2/0 is better.
The cable will be about the size of a sharpie marker. DO NOT use the cheap battery terminals found at the auto parts counter.
Then make sure all the connections are clean, bright and tight. No paint, oil, grease etc, etc.
Make sure all the grounding straps in place [engine to frame] and are clean and tight. Move the positive battery ground to a starter mount bolt.
6 volt positive ground alternators are readily available and are a good idea.
For air conditioning http://www.retroair.com/prewarcarac192050s.html clearly states on their site that their system can work with a 6 volt system.
For sounds, a lot of modern systems will work off 6 volt.
Stude Rookie
Comment
Comment