Cool/Heat: Radiator Cap ID (Was: "Don't Know")

[Stude Rookie]

Could someone please tell me about this radiator cap? I have never seen this type. It was on the radiator of my new to me, 54 Starliner. Thanks,
Stude Rookie

[bezhawk]

Original type 4 lb one way cap with no drainback provisions for catch cans, that came about years later in the mid 60s. If you put a radiator overflow bottle on your car, this cap won't work.

[StudeRich]

The Studebaker Vendors at: http://studebakervendors.com have the correct Cap for a stock '54 Radiator that has the unusual 1 Inch Neck, so the Cap cannot be the Standard on Newer Cars 3/4 Inch reach Cap, the correct one is 7 Lbs. but you could use a 4 Lb. as long as it is 1 Inch Reach.

Unless a Cap has a Rubber Seal under the Top plate as Bez mentioned, it will not work with an overflow Tank, but these Cars never had one, just a to the ground overflow pipe.

Your Cap is ancient, but not the correct type. If you have excess to a Radiator and Cap Pressure tester, you can find out if it even works.

[Stude Rookie]

Thanks all of you for the information. I have no intention of using this cap, I just had no idea how or why it was designed and what it's purpose was. I started the little 232 and it purred like a kitten. Then I noticed a rubber expansion plug on each side of the engine. I shut it down and removed the cap and it was full of rust. Looks as if the PO had some rusted out freeze plugs and took the easy way out. What kind of Freeze plugs would you folks use? Looks like I am in for a nasty clean out job. All of the wiring going across the fan shroud had been cut except the ignition wires. Don't know why but it is very brittle stuff. Could not find a resistor on the fire wall or in the ignition wiring any where. Car starts fine but I have to wonder what has been done to it. Twelve volt conversion may be in order. Thanks again, Stude Rookie

[r1lark]

Could not find a resistor on the fire wall or in the ignition wiring any where.

The six volt systems did not have resistors. If you have a Shop Manual, there is a wiring diagram in it. If you don't have a Shop Manual, I would recommend getting one. They are available hard copy or on CDs.

That's a nice looking hardtop!

[rockne10]

Looks like I am in for a nasty clean out job.

Not necessarily; PO may have already done that. Those rubber plugs will be fine, until they start to weep. I would live with them for the time being.

All of the wiring going across the fan shroud had been cut except the ignition wires.

Other than the wires to the regulator and generator, that would mean you have no lights up front--headlights, parking lights, signals. If you do, I would guess the PO simply ran a new hidden harness.

[studegary]

I suggest/recommend repairing your 6 volt system. There is no need to go to 12 volts.
The car appears to be quite stock/original/authentic. It won't be with a 12 volt conversion.

[Stude Rookie]

Not necessarily; PO may have already done that. Those rubber plugs will be fine, until they start to weep. I would live with them for the time being. Other than the wires to the regulator and generator, that would mean you have no lights up front--headlights, parking lights, signals. If you do, I would guess the PO simply ran a new hidden harness.

Don't know about those rubber plugs. I just figured that with all of the rust that showed up in the radiator the PO didn't do a thorough cleaning job. There are no headlights or turn signals so no hidden wiring.

[Stude Rookie]

I suggest/recommend repairing your 6 volt system. There is no need to go to 12 volts.
The car appears to be quite stock/original/authentic. It won't be with a 12 volt conversion.

Thank you for the advice Gary. I have not priced new 6volt wiring harnesses or 12 volt harnesses either. I am definitely going alternator no matter which I choose. but your point is well taken on originality. You are quite right in that it is a very nice solid car. The only cancer that I have seen is over the drive shaft tunnel about 2" in diameter in front of the back seat.

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

It is your choice as to 6 or 12 volt.
Before you make any hasty moves you should first make sure you have the correct size battery cables for 6 volt. Size 0, pronounced 1/0 [1 ought]. 2/0 is better.
The cable will be about the size of a sharpie marker. DO NOT use the cheap battery terminals found at the auto parts counter.
Then make sure all the connections are clean, bright and tight. No paint, oil, grease etc, etc.
Make sure all the grounding straps in place [engine to frame] and are clean and tight. Move the positive battery ground to a starter mount bolt.
6 volt positive ground alternators are readily available and are a good idea.
For air conditioning http://www.retroair.com/prewarcarac192050s.html clearly states on their site that their system can work with a 6 volt system.
For sounds, a lot of modern systems will work off 6 volt.

[Stude Rookie]

It is your choice as to 6 or 12 volt.
Before you make any hasty moves you should first make sure you have the correct size battery cables for 6 volt. Size 0, pronounced 1/0 [1 ought]. 2/0 is better.
The cable will be about the size of a sharpie marker. DO NOT use the cheap battery terminals found at the auto parts counter.
Then make sure all the connections are clean, bright and tight. No paint, oil, grease etc, etc.
Make sure all the grounding straps in place [engine to frame] and are clean and tight. Move the positive battery ground to a starter mount bolt.
6 volt positive ground alternators are readily available and are a good idea.
For air conditioning http://www.retroair.com/prewarcarac192050s.html clearly states on their site that their system can work with a 6 volt system.
For sounds, a lot of modern systems will work off 6 volt.

Thanks for the electrical tips Prez. They are appreciated.
Stude Rookie