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  • Engine: 289 block

    Thought I would start to pull the 62 289 parts car block apart today for the crank and the rods. Knew it had a lot of water in it for some time as the intake was off and had been open the the weather when I got it. Looked like someone had started a valve job got the heads redone and back on then quit. A lot more rust than I thought. looks to be a STD 289 crank and bearing looked to be in decent shape. Think it would clean up at .010 and most rust is on the counterweights. If I can get it out is it worth saving?

  • #2
    Even though its a short snout, any 289 crank that will clean up in .030" or less, is worth saving.

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    • #3
      Absolutely! May even polish at less than .010.
      "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

      Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
      '33 Rockne 10,
      '51 Commander Starlight,
      '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
      '56 Sky Hawk

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      • #4
        Here's the pictures of whats there. I uploaded windows 10 and had a hard time finding where my camera uploads my photo's to now.
        Attached Files

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        • #5
          Hmm,
          Have to see what it looks like once removed and cleaned, and inspected by a machinist.

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          • #6
            If I were you Steve, I'd take it to a "good" machine shop, have them hot tank it and clean it up, then check it out to make sure it is a worthwhile part. If it is OK, have them turn it to the closest undersize to stock dimensions. Yes, any 289 crank is worth saving if you can. Bill

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            • #7
              I don't think I'll have a problem getting it out. The plan was to save the rods to but they look pretty much toast. I know there is a solution that if it's socked in for a while then washed off with water it will remove all the grease and rust down to clean metal. We had a 55 gallon barrel of it at my dads machine shop. Just don't remember what it's called. stuff was great you could put your hand in it with out gloves on wash it off and didn't even hurt your hand but would eat the rust right off if it soaked in it. Then you could hot tank your part. I've got the mic's to check it if I can get it cleaned up.

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              • #8
                Oxalic acid? Phosphoric acid?...

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                • #9
                  Krud Kutter for rust is a good bet. Luck Doofus

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                  • #10
                    take it to a good shop and let them try to save it for you.......

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                    • #11
                      Regarding post #7, I believe that you are talking about Evapo-Rust http://www.evapo-rust.com/. Definitely a great product.
                      78 Avanti RQB 2792
                      64 Avanti R1 R5408
                      63 Avanti R1 R4551
                      63 Avanti R1 R2281
                      62 GT Hawk V15949
                      56 GH 6032504
                      56 GH 6032588
                      55 Speedster 7160047
                      55 Speedster 7165279

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                      • #12
                        Will any of the rust removal products damage the bearing surfaces beyond repair?
                        RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

                        17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
                        10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
                        10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
                        4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
                        5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
                        56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
                        60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible

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                        • #13
                          Something I've used to remove rust from a file (and not damage the cutting teeth) is to immerse the part is a washing soda (sodium carbonate) solution. Then you hook a battery charger to a sacrificial piece of iron (+) and the crank itself (-), don't let these parts touch http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp. The rust is then transferred off the crank without any abrasion. I don't believe that the chemical processes necessarily damage the good steel. But..., it typically does remove ALL the rust and can give the impression of damage over say, wire brushing that can shin up rust that remains and gives the illusion that the metal is better than it actually is.
                          '64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post
                            Will any of the rust removal products damage the bearing surfaces beyond repair?
                            Yes, if the rust pits go deep enough, the result is clean pits. Having said that, I once pulled the crank out of a '69 Ford 302". One journal had a large, deep pit in it from original and there was so sign of bearing damage.

                            No, if it's just surface rust.

                            Maybe, this is one which should be taken to a professional.

                            jack vines
                            PackardV8

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                            • #15
                              Originally Posted by RadioRoy Will any of the rust removal products damage the bearing surfaces beyond repair?



                              Originally posted by PackardV8 View Post
                              Yes, if the rust pits go deep enough, the result is clean pits.
                              jack vines
                              But in that case I'd think it is fair to say the rust itself (and to be more exact the oxidation process) did the damage, - not the rust removal product. The rust removal product only revealed it. Perhaps a strong acid and a long period of time will remove good metal (why they acid dip race car bodies), but my experience with the generally available products they only interacted with the oxidized metal in the typical time it took for them to be effective. Hopefully there is a chemist here who knows the subject in greater detail.


                              I'd agree with Mr. Vines about the 302 crank. As long as a defect isn't predominant (creating a flat spot) nor has sharp edges it shouldn't be a problem. People groove cranks for oiling purposes and that much larger absence of metal typically is not deemed an issue.
                              Last edited by wittsend; 05-18-2016, 01:27 PM.
                              '64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.

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