Thought I would start to pull the 62 289 parts car block apart today for the crank and the rods. Knew it had a lot of water in it for some time as the intake was off and had been open the the weather when I got it. Looked like someone had started a valve job got the heads redone and back on then quit. A lot more rust than I thought. looks to be a STD 289 crank and bearing looked to be in decent shape. Think it would clean up at .010 and most rust is on the counterweights. If I can get it out is it worth saving?
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Absolutely! May even polish at less than .010."All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory
Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
'33 Rockne 10,
'51 Commander Starlight,
'53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
'56 Sky Hawk
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I don't think I'll have a problem getting it out. The plan was to save the rods to but they look pretty much toast. I know there is a solution that if it's socked in for a while then washed off with water it will remove all the grease and rust down to clean metal. We had a 55 gallon barrel of it at my dads machine shop. Just don't remember what it's called. stuff was great you could put your hand in it with out gloves on wash it off and didn't even hurt your hand but would eat the rust right off if it soaked in it. Then you could hot tank your part. I've got the mic's to check it if I can get it cleaned up.
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Regarding post #7, I believe that you are talking about Evapo-Rust http://www.evapo-rust.com/. Definitely a great product.78 Avanti RQB 2792
64 Avanti R1 R5408
63 Avanti R1 R4551
63 Avanti R1 R2281
62 GT Hawk V15949
56 GH 6032504
56 GH 6032588
55 Speedster 7160047
55 Speedster 7165279
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Will any of the rust removal products damage the bearing surfaces beyond repair?RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.
17A-S2 - 50 Commander convertible
10G-C1 - 51 Champion starlight coupe
10G-Q4 - 51 Champion business coupe
4H-K5 - 53 Commander starliner hardtop
5H-D5 - 54 Commander Conestoga wagon
56B-D4 - 56 Commander station wagon
60V-L6 - 60 Lark convertible
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Something I've used to remove rust from a file (and not damage the cutting teeth) is to immerse the part is a washing soda (sodium carbonate) solution. Then you hook a battery charger to a sacrificial piece of iron (+) and the crank itself (-), don't let these parts touch http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp. The rust is then transferred off the crank without any abrasion. I don't believe that the chemical processes necessarily damage the good steel. But..., it typically does remove ALL the rust and can give the impression of damage over say, wire brushing that can shin up rust that remains and gives the illusion that the metal is better than it actually is.'64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.
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Originally posted by RadioRoy View PostWill any of the rust removal products damage the bearing surfaces beyond repair?
No, if it's just surface rust.
Maybe, this is one which should be taken to a professional.
jack vinesPackardV8
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Originally Posted by RadioRoyWill any of the rust removal products damage the bearing surfaces beyond repair?
Originally posted by PackardV8 View PostYes, if the rust pits go deep enough, the result is clean pits.
jack vines
I'd agree with Mr. Vines about the 302 crank. As long as a defect isn't predominant (creating a flat spot) nor has sharp edges it shouldn't be a problem. People groove cranks for oiling purposes and that much larger absence of metal typically is not deemed an issue.Last edited by wittsend; 05-18-2016, 02:27 PM.'64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.
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