Announcement

Collapse

Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage: www.studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
See more
See less

Timing way off

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Ignition: Timing way off

    I attempted to adjust the timing on my six cylinder Lark this weekend, and my timing light said the timing was off by 37 degrees??? I've maxed out on the movement of the distributor. I noticed that the distributor cam was very worn down. Could this be the problem? She starts and runs pretty well...I'm surprised that's possible with the timing so off. Any thoughts? I'm obviously not an expert on timing adjustments. Thanks,

    Nate

  • #2
    Nate,
    Might want to read my thread about timing marks here on the Forum !!!
    Maybe your Lark was owned by the Brother of my Stude !!!!!
    Geoff

    Comment


    • #3
      That is correct, the noted String has many Posts describing how to rotate the wires away from the Factory correct positions to correct the mis-timing of the Oil pump Drive Gear, which will give you room to rotate the Dist. for correct Timing.
      The Oil Pump Gear cannot be changed without a complete disassembly of the Engine
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

      Comment


      • #4
        I read the thread and I'm still a little confused. Am I correct in understanding that an incorrect installation of the oil pump can affect the timing of the distributor? If so, how do I ensure the oil pump is installed properly?

        Comment


        • #5
          You just don't. It does not matter if you have good Oil Pressure whether they properly Clocked the gear or not, assuming they did not screw up some other part of the pump like forgetting the "C" Clips on the Gear Shaft or something.

          You compensate for their error in NOT reading the Shop Manual, by rotating the wires as required, and clocking the wires to #1, in the Firing Order (Counterclockwise) with the Pointer on the "IGN" Mark on the Vibration Damper, with #1 Piston at TDC and both Valves closed.

          It then can be fine tuned with a Timing Light without the Dist. hitting something like the generator.
          Last edited by StudeRich; 05-09-2016, 07:57 PM.
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner

          Comment


          • #6
            So you literally change (rotate) the position of the spark plug wires on the distributor to "make it work"?

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Surfpilot View Post
              So you literally change (rotate) the position of the spark plug wires on the distributor to "make it work"?
              Yep-pretty much, a workaround done for 50 years!!

              Comment


              • #8
                Did you disconnect the vacuum advance before checking timing, per the Shop Manual? If not, disconnect it, and then re-check timing. Sounds like your timing is a lot closer than 37 degrees, and maybe even spot on. If 37 advanced, you'd have serious kickback on the starter. If 37 degrees retarded, it would cough back through the carb, be very harf to start, and very little power with more coughing.

                Comment


                • #9
                  The dist/oil pump shaft can be re-clocked without a complete tear down, i've done several over the years but swapping wires is OK if the boss aint lookin! Luck Doofus

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I agree with Joe. It wouldn't run and start good as described if the timing was that far off. I'm wondering what engine is in the Lark, because some GM engines had problems with the timing mark shifting as the damper moved on it's rubber mounts. I've had to install a few new dampers on customer's cars to correct the timing mark.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yes the vacuum advance was disconnected. I was shocked it would run at 37 degrees off, and it sounds pretty good too. I'll check the position of the rotor with the #1 cyl at UDC and the valves closed, move the wires and re-check, but I do believe the timing mark is wrong.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I`m certain at 37 degrees it wouldn`t run like you say it does.I would just get #1 cyl at the top of it`s stroke it really doesn`t matter if the valves are open or shut as in either case the timing marks should be close to the pointer.
                        if there not then the damper is set in the wrong place as in my case on the other thread.
                        Maybe someone replaced the front seal without using a manual to put it all back together.
                        geoff

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Check the damper "Flywheel" there should be a "G" stamped on face and should face rad, and yes they can be assembled wrong. Luck Doofus

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Hi my damper on the 170 s been replaced and the pointer that goes to the timing mark is bent
                            can I run the #1 to top ,both valves closed and mark where the pointer indicates with paint on the damper ? Is this TDC?

                            Comment

                            Working...
                            X