Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Steering Column lengths, Boxes, & Wheels

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Alan
    replied
    Yes. There should be plenty around, but if you can't find one, they are simple to make out of some steel tubing.

    Leave a comment:


  • Flat Ernie
    replied
    Originally posted by bezhawk View Post
    I have put in a later Lark Saginaw recirculating ball steering box on a 53 Commander. No problems, used the whole shebang wiring for turnsignal and everything. All that has to be mdified it the reach rod from the pitman arm to the bellcrank. There is info on a similar conversion as done by others on Bob Johnstones excellent website. You don't have to keep the original wheel as in this article. I didn't and it was fine using the 63 column and wheel.
    http://www.studebaker-info.org/TW/tw1098/tw1098p28.html
    Thanks! Great article - it references a "reach rod" and says the Lark one is too short, but a Hawk one will be close. Which rod is that? At first I thought they were talking about the pitman arm, but do they mean the rod from the pitman arm to the center pivot?

    Leave a comment:


  • WCP
    replied
    Since you have a 5-speed, consider a later Hawk 4-speed column and a non-dished wheel with adapter. Still a Ross box, though.

    Leave a comment:


  • bezhawk
    replied
    I have put in a later Lark Saginaw recirculating ball steering box on a 53 Commander. No problems, used the whole shebang wiring for turnsignal and everything. All that has to be mdified it the reach rod from the pitman arm to the bellcrank. There is info on a similar conversion as done by others on Bob Johnstones excellent website. You don't have to keep the original wheel as in this article. I didn't and it was fine using the 63 column and wheel.
    http://www.studebaker-info.org/TW/tw1098/tw1098p28.html

    Leave a comment:


  • RadioRoy
    replied
    Originally posted by thunderations View Post
    I've walked into many machine shops with a big problem only to have them provide a simple solution based on experience and past applications.
    Yes. Being open to an outside-the-box solution is always better than insisting on doing something the first way that comes into your mind.

    Leave a comment:


  • Flat Ernie
    replied
    Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
    Only the '61-'64 Convertibles and '63-'66 Wagonaires' with Manual Steering have the Low Ratio, Slow and easy to turn Box, all the rest '61-'66; Standard and Power, have the slightly quicker Ratio.
    Are all models the same length?

    Leave a comment:


  • Flat Ernie
    replied
    Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
    Only the '61-'64 Convertibles and '63-'66 Wagonaires' with Manual Steering have the Low Ratio, Slow and easy to turn Box, all the rest '61-'66; Standard and Power, have the slightly quicker Ratio.
    Good info, thanks! Were those listed Ross boxes, or did Saginaw come in different ratios?

    Leave a comment:


  • thunderations
    replied
    Any good machine shop could re-spline the steering wheel or make an adapter for it. Might be a better way to go then splicing a steering shaft. I've walked into many machine shops with a big problem only to have them provide a simple solution based on experience and past applications.

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    Only the '61-'64 Convertibles and '63-'66 Wagonaires' with Manual Steering have the Low Ratio, Slow and easy to turn Box, all the rest '61-'66; Standard and Power, have the slightly quicker Ratio.

    Leave a comment:


  • Flat Ernie
    replied
    Originally posted by StudeNewby View Post
    I think Ernie was kidding about the blocks.
    I HOPE Ernie was kidding about the blocks...
    Yes...kidding.

    Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post
    My rant was more about my personal preferences than anything else and was not intended as an attack, merely a rant.
    Sorry if I assumed too much then. My comment about the Vega steering was more orout of frustration than anything else...I'd truly prefer to use stude stuff when able.

    Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post
    I did have the same idea that you could move the seat back and put blocks on the pedals. Taping would not be sufficient (the blocks would fall off at the most inopportune times) , but the pedals are steel backed and you could certainly drill and tap them and put the blocks on with screws.
    I was kidding about the blocks, and I'd prefer not to do that. That said, I am going to put buckets out of a later Hawk in, so that may be the time to "steal" an extra inch or two...not enough to need pedal blocks, but a little extra can't hurt.

    Originally posted by RadioRoy View Post
    The power steering wheel is the same size as the manual one. The C/K has a smaller wheel than the sedan.
    Well,, sounds like short of a custom wheel, I'm stuck with the diameter. No worries. If I could find a good 16"steel ring, I might try it...


    I guess a shorter column and Saginaw box from a later car would be the first order of business. I'll have to figure out the rest after that.

    I think I have an automatic mast jacket from a '63 Hawk...or Lark (not sure). I'll use a later wheel, but am open to splicing the shaft to use the earlier wheel. If I go that route, I can always shorten a wee bit as well.

    I guess I was just hoping for some combo of stock parts that would do everything: Saginaw box, shorter column, smaller diameter wheel....two out of three ain't bad.

    So the next question is which stock application Saginaw box has the best ratio, or are they all the same?

    Leave a comment:


  • Skip Lackie
    replied
    Originally posted by StudeNewby View Post
    I think Ernie was kidding about the blocks.
    I HOPE Ernie was kidding about the blocks...
    JC Whitney used to sell them -- came with little clamps so no drilling (or tape) necessary.

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeNewby
    replied
    I think Ernie was kidding about the blocks.
    I HOPE Ernie was kidding about the blocks...

    Leave a comment:


  • GrumpyOne
    replied
    Radio Roy opined...

    "The power steering wheel is the same size as the manual one. The C/K has a smaller wheel than the sedan."


    Great! I have a c/k wheel that should fit the sedan nicely. You learn something of value everyday!

    Thanks...

    Leave a comment:


  • RadioRoy
    replied
    My rant was more about my personal preferences than anything else and was not intended as an attack, merely a rant.

    I did have the same idea that you could move the seat back and put blocks on the pedals. Taping would not be sufficient (the blocks would fall off at the most inopportune times) , but the pedals are steel backed and you could certainly drill and tap them and put the blocks on with screws.

    The power steering wheel is the same size as the manual one. The C/K has a smaller wheel than the sedan.

    Leave a comment:


  • thunderations
    replied
    I know this is probably not cost effective......BUT......BIG BUT.
    Could you use a later model, shorter column and have the center of the correct steering wheel for that column modified to accept a smaller diameter, non dished ring?
    I know there are steering wheel restorers that can make things happen, BUT, is it too costly?

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X