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Paint removal suggestions?

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  • #16
    Over the last half century I have finished painting nine cars (2 cars twice). Only one time did I remove all of the paint from a vehicle, and I have never had a failure. Whether I have just been lucky or living in a fools paradise, I don't really know, but if so let the illusion continue, because I won't be changing anything until there is a failure.

    For me stripping a car completely is silly if the original paint is in decent shape, not pealing and with no rust under the paint. It is simply a waste of time and increases your chances of not being able to reestablish proper adhesion. Poor adhesion is the biggest reason for paint failure. The condition of your paint will tell you what you need to know and what process is necessary. With a car that has been repainted and has had body panels replaced, as yours has, will have to be evaluated a panel at a time. In other words the process that will work on one part of the car may not work on another part.

    The last repaint on your car was poorly done and did not adhere to the original, because it was poorly prepped, and is peeling because of it. If it were me I would start at the rear fender (photo 3) and use a razor blade to remove the non-adhering paint, but stop when the paint stops peeling easily. Then you should have a solid base on which to start your build and blocking process. Removing the fenders will be essential to removing the rust under the welting. Where there is rust it is essential that it be removed and the metal etched to regain adhesion. I would use a Tuffy pad to remove all the paint on the panel that is showing rust through and then I would use Oshpo and a course Scotch Bright type pad dipped in Ospho to scrub away the remaining rust. My two cents worth, good luck!