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Oil Pressure Relief Spring
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I take mine out with a drill bit (by hand). I think it's a 1/4'' bit that fits nice and snug into that plunger and pulls it out every time.
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There is a Shop in the L.A. basin I think it was Gardena, called Tap-X they have a Mobile and a Shop Laser that can burn a Bolt or Plug out without touching the Block or Head.
They do amazing work, I had them save a Stude. V8 Cylinder Head for me by burning out a Water Manifold Screw.
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Originally posted by doofus View PostWeld a nut to this non-budging plug, wait a few minutes then it will come loose, if your weld held. Luck Doofus
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Weld a nut to this non-budging plug, wait a few minutes then it will come loose, if your weld held. Luck Doofus
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ROCKNE10 - Got that one out, but the plug in the OTHER oil gallery on the opposite side won't budge...Last edited by 345 DeSoto; 05-04-2016, 12:46 PM.
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From Bob Johnstone's site.............
http://www.studebaker-info.org/text3...leryplugs.html
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It must be removed to properly clean out the oil galleries -- but MORE IMPORTANTLY -- replaced during reassembly. Otherwise you will have no oil pressure at start-up and bad things will happen.
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Originally posted by rockne10 View PostTony,
You and your machinist are both aware of the pipe plug in the oil galley just under the distributor--yes?
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Tony,
You and your machinist are both aware of the pipe plug in the oil galley just under the distributor--yes?
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If its really stuck a little heat on face of block will help and something tapped into the center hole, and lots of carb cleaner and penetrant. Luck Doofus
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Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View PostI finished stripping my block down (289) to take to the Machinist. I removed the plug and pressure relief spring, but I'm wondering if there's something else in there that needs to come out, like a cup or plunger. Thanks, guys...
Paul
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After spraying with your favorite lubricant, the taper of a Pencil gently forced into the hole in the center will usually, but not always do the trick depending if it is gunked up badly or not.
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