No announcement yet.

Ugh.... Tank crud....

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Fuel System: Ugh.... Tank crud....

    I've not driven my '53 much the past few years. I think last summer only a few times. It was acting up and I found the first (I have 2) fuel filter before the #1 fuel pump by the tank was clogged with some old silicone sealant globs yet again after several years. I made the mistake of using red silicone on the fuel sender gasket/screws back when I built the car. This was not the first time I had problems with a clogged filter.

    Anyway, the only filter I had around was a clear plastic one so I put it in. I usually prefer the metal cased ones under the car for fears of road debris hitting it. Fixed the immediate problem.

    Fast forward to this spring. A couple weeks ago I tried to start the car and it would only fire and stall, rinse and repeat.

    Suspecting a fuel problem again, yesterday I crawled under the car and found the nearly new fuel filter from last summer full of rusty crud:

    This did not bode well. If there was rust in the filter, what about the #1 fuel pump? This car has a 80s ford EFI V6 in it. Two fuel pumps, one at the tank; and another on the frame rail. I got the #1 pump out and tested it with a battery and fortunately it seems to be OK (not stuck). I do have a spare though.

    So, today I dropped out the tank. A couple years ago the gauge sender quit working as well so this was a good reason to check into that too.

    As feared, there is some rust damage and crud in the tank. Its not totally rusty so I guess there is something to be thankful for. This tank was one of the last NOS lark wagon tanks that SASCO had back about 2001 or so. I am going to swish it out with some acetone and maybe toss in some loose bolts to churn off any rust bits.

    As for the fuel sender, I am not sure I can save it....

    The immediate problem is the shaft is stuck.

    After soaking in penetrating oil, I was able to get it to move but its too sticky for the float to possibly move it in normal conditions. The resistance seems to be OK, just the shaft is rusty/sticking. This sender cost me about $98 from packard farms back in the day, grrr. The gasket is also shot with cracks in it.

    I am going to blame E-10 gas for this mess..... Seems from all the green stuff, that the plating and copper on the sender was being eaten by acids in the fuel. There are green deposit on the tank bottom under the sender as seen though the port hole too.

    Probably be a couple weeks before I get this back together as next weekend I am out of town for Mother's day.

    Jeff in ND

  • #2
    I plan on draining the fuel from my cars that sit the winter, seen this same dry goo on everything that sits awhile. Just replaced the fuel pump, (in tank), on a car that has been sitting. The plastic sock was disintegrating. There are a lot of additives in gas these days, so much so that we had a warning about not getting gas on your hands during repairs, wear plastic gloves, some of the additives are solvents that can go into the skin, may cause big problems in years to come.


    • #3
      After having to clean out the fuel system on my outboard boat engine...TWICE...I started using ethanol free Premium gas. END of problem. For a few more cents a gallon I no longer have problems with water absorbing E10. I plan on using the same gas in my Sky Hawk, to avoid any problems...


      • #4
        Agree with 345 DeSoto....
        I started using Ethanol Free gas from my local Farmer's CO OP in ALL my engines that don't run every day...

        lawnmowers, weedwhackers, Studebakers, tractor and even a couple Aircraft.

        Guess what? I have about 1/3rd or less the trouble I had before! Apparently ethanol fuel not only eats your fuel lines, it's hydroscopic (meaning it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere)


        • #5
          Here in DE, the home of ILLEGAL less than 10% ethanol fuel, it now becomes a question of how to keep my car alive. Right now I've drained everything. The above example of what water can do to old systems is only part of the problem-even newer "Fuel injection hose" wasn't enough to stop it from eating the rubber on my car. New specialty hoses won't work on old fittings, tank coatings don't last. I certainly can't afford to drive out of state to get 20 gallons of gas, nor pay $100.00 for 5 gallons of racing fuel. I'm seriously thinking of replacing, rebuilding everything and selling it to someone who can drive it and use it without constant repair due to 10% ethanol. Really takes the fun out of the hobby, but we are not a protected minority class, so it won't change.


          • #6
            NOT to hi-jack this thread, but I'm wondering as an example if you could take 4 gallons of E10, pour in a gallon of water, and mix it, if the water would take the ethanol out...


            • #7
              Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View Post
              NOT to hi-jack this thread, but I'm wondering as an example if you could take 4 gallons of E10, pour in a gallon of water, and mix it, if the water would take the ethanol out...
              Yes, you can-and loose 5-10 points of "octane rating". Then there's the very careful removal of the gasoline only layer, nice clean fun! Some British company sells a kit to just that, but then you need an octane booster to make it useable. So much easier to just not put it in and actually refine the gasoline.


              • #8
                Across state lines they might actually sell E0.. Ethanol Free