Originally posted by 1oldtimer
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Basic radiator flushing question
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Originally posted by LeoH View PostLooks like the valve I picked up. Good to see it'll work when it's put in place. Wow, I don't know what I'll do with heat in the car in winter after all this, and frankly, it's not been that bad as it was. Almost makes me look forward to winter cold to check out a functioning heater. Is your heater control on the dash pull for heat or push for heat?
My 59 Lark is TWIST for heat to open/close the valve, and PULL to push the airflow to the floor, PUSH for defrost. The twist is almost non-operational for me. So the ball valve works well in my case.Dis-Use on a Car is Worse Than Mis-Use...
1959 Studebaker Lark VIII 2DHTP
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Mine is pull for heat, just like the original. After reading on here that the stock valve even rebuilt isn't that good, I hunted down a new one. There are only 2 of those type valves with a 3/4" nipple on both ends. They both have arrows on them to show which way they flow.
74764 Pull to open
74678 Pull to close
Last edited by 1oldtimer; 04-24-2016, 12:45 AM.
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Originally posted by 1oldtimer View PostMine is pull for heat, just like the original. After reading on here that the stock valve even rebuilt isn't good I hunted down a new one. There are only 2 of those type valves with a 3/4" nipple on both ends. They both have arrows on them to show which way they flow.
74764 Pull to open 74678 Pull to closeDo you remember how much that one set you back?
StudeRich
Second Generation Stude Driver,
Proud '54 Starliner Owner
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I bought mine at Autozone (49.99) and Orileys has their Murray brand for the same price. I was wondering about that with SI, I thought maybe the 74678 fit more applications.
It seems the 74678 valve is cheaper (41.99) and can be bought at more places.
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