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Basic radiator flushing question

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  • #16
    Originally posted by 1oldtimer View Post
    Just drain it and look inside with a light. You can just run a hose in the thermostat housing (thermostat out) and let it run until it's clear water. If it's real chunky inside the block or with the plug out nothing comes out, you can use a wire or coat hanger it clean it out (I made a small hook on the end to clean the sides). I also bought a 3/8" pipe to hose barb fitting that screws into the block, 6 feet of clear hose, a hose barb to garden hose fitting that way I can back flush the block (I had the lower hose off the radiator).......then run until clean water comes out (both sides).

    If yours is running a normal temp then you might just pull the plugs and flush through the radiator.....so no build-up starts to happen.

    Here's my valve and hose set-up.
    Looks like the valve I picked up. Good to see it'll work when it's put in place. Wow, I don't know what I'll do with heat in the car in winter after all this, and frankly, it's not been that bad as it was. Almost makes me look forward to winter cold to check out a functioning heater. Is your heater control on the dash pull for heat or push for heat?

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    • #17
      Originally posted by LeoH View Post
      Looks like the valve I picked up. Good to see it'll work when it's put in place. Wow, I don't know what I'll do with heat in the car in winter after all this, and frankly, it's not been that bad as it was. Almost makes me look forward to winter cold to check out a functioning heater. Is your heater control on the dash pull for heat or push for heat?

      My 59 Lark is TWIST for heat to open/close the valve, and PULL to push the airflow to the floor, PUSH for defrost. The twist is almost non-operational for me. So the ball valve works well in my case.
      Dis-Use on a Car is Worse Than Mis-Use...
      1959 Studebaker Lark VIII 2DHTP

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      • #18
        Mine is pull for heat, just like the original. After reading on here that the stock valve even rebuilt isn't that good, I hunted down a new one. There are only 2 of those type valves with a 3/4" nipple on both ends. They both have arrows on them to show which way they flow.

        74764 Pull to open

        74678 Pull to close
        Last edited by 1oldtimer; 04-24-2016, 12:45 AM.

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        • #19
          That's what I got.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by 1oldtimer View Post
            Mine is pull for heat, just like the original. After reading on here that the stock valve even rebuilt isn't good I hunted down a new one. There are only 2 of those type valves with a 3/4" nipple on both ends. They both have arrows on them to show which way they flow.
            74764 Pull to open 74678 Pull to close
            So which Auto Parts Store carries the Pull to Open 74764, that is just silly that all of us Stude. Parts Vendors are being supplied with the WRONG (74678) Valve! Do you remember how much that one set you back?
            StudeRich
            Second Generation Stude Driver,
            Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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            • #21
              I bought mine at Autozone (49.99) and Orileys has their Murray brand for the same price. I was wondering about that with SI, I thought maybe the 74678 fit more applications.

              It seems the 74678 valve is cheaper (41.99) and can be bought at more places.

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