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  • Brakes: Rear Brake Drums

    Do the rear brake drums on my Sky Hawk come off the rear hub, or does the whole hub have to come off?

  • #2
    A quick "Studebaker rear drum removal"google search reveals the following

    http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/.../reardrum.html

    Robert Kapteyn

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    • #3
      RKAPTEYN - Thanks...that's what I was afraid of...

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      • #4
        You really, really, need a Studebaker Shop Manual.

        jack vines
        PackardV8

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        • #5
          Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View Post
          RKAPTEYN - Thanks...that's what I was afraid of...
          Nothing to be afraid of, Tony; just need the correct tool. They can be purchased, rented or loaned.
          "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

          Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
          Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
          '33 Rockne 10,
          '51 Commander Starlight,
          '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée",
          '56 Sky Hawk

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          • #6
            Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View Post
            Do the rear brake drums on my Sky Hawk come off the rear hub, or does the whole hub have to come off?
            DeSoto, you apparently don't have a Shop Manual yet. These are invaluable if you are planning on keeping your Studebaker. Go ahead and pop for the parts manuals also when you order the Shop Manual.
            Paul
            Winston-Salem, NC
            Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

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            • #7
              You obviously have a computer so get all you need in the form of a cd. It's much cheaper & you can print out the page(s) you need without getting a book all greasy & messed up. Available at most of our vendors.
              59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
              60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
              61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
              62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
              62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
              62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
              63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
              63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
              64 Zip Van
              66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
              66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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              • #8
                Use a hub puller, not a drum puller.
                Gary L.
                Wappinger, NY

                SDC member since 1968
                Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Warren Webb View Post
                  You obviously have a computer so get all you need in the form of a cd. It's much cheaper & you can print out the page(s) you need without getting a book all greasy & messed up. Available at most of our vendors.
                  Does anyone know if the cds are copies of original manuals or from reprints ?
                  Asking because the reprint pictures are not as clear as from the originals.
                  South Lompoc Studebaker

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                  • #10
                    I have the same problem right now - just ordered a puller some 30min ago.

                    Pics in manual are really poor!!!

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                    • #11
                      Even with a perfectly fitting puller I did not manage to get my rear drums off thus far!

                      I found a how-to online with pictures but I did not quite understand how they finally did it (put some metal between puller and axle and hammerd like hell .....?).

                      I am just about to get the whole thing to the shop but I doubt they can manage this easily without destroying anything ......

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                      • #12
                        What they referring to is , when you tighten the hub puller as far as you can and you hit the end of the puller screw with a big hammer you more than likely shock the hub loose.
                        Make sure that you have the axle nut (without the washer) threaded part way on the axle shaft to prevent the drum from flying off and hitting you.
                        Apply some heat if it still does not come off.
                        Assemble the hub back on the shaft afterwards without grease , anti seize or any lubricant .
                        Assemble it dry otherwise , when you tighten the axle nut , it will keep going further on the shaft
                        and the taper will split the hub and you may not know the American term "you are up **** creek"
                        That means you are in trouble because so many Studebaker "experts" made this mistake that hubs are hard to find.
                        Gruss von Joliet

                        Robert Kapteyn

                        Read this article

                        http://www.studebaker-info.org/tech/.../reardrum.html

                        Explore this website and you will find many tips on Studebakers
                        Last edited by rkapteyn; 05-04-2016, 06:24 AM.

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                        • #13
                          The longer they've been on the longer it seems to take to get them off. I borrowed a home made one from a vender with five lug attachment--it worked the best, Since then I have used one in a kit from Autozone that uses 3 legs and pulls on 3 lugs only-works but not as well. The worst thing about this is the amount of force you need to apply, your fear of smashing the puller with a sledge is the hardest part. Sometimes you smash turn and smash and nothing lets go, till you go get a cup of coffee and come back to find it popped while you were gone!!!
                          While they are off, I would go to the trouble of removing the swages holding the drums to the hub, removing the drum from the hub, and replacing the lug bolts with ones with a slightly longer shoulder that will engage and center the drum without swaging them. Then after reinstalling the hubs properly you will be able to do any brake work in the future without pulling them again.
                          Last edited by karterfred88; 05-04-2016, 06:30 AM.

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                          • #14
                            Thanks Robert and Fred!! I will report on my progress ....

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                            • #15
                              I have used this large nut for this purpose for years. It feels like it will destroy something when you do it, but it works! This tool is designed for exactly this. It tightens against the end of the shaft so the threads don't get damaged.

                              Screw it on to the end of the axle and tighten it with a large open end wrench.

                              Hit the end with an 8 LB sledge hammer like a pimp on a bad ho...... Until it pops loose. Make sure it stays tight between swings so it does not jack your threads. The hub will pop off. You may not SEE it pop, but you will hear the change in tone when you hit it. It will go from a high pitch ring to a more dull thump. I have had it work in as few as three hits, and as many as 25+ hits. You will note the end is mushroomed due to seriously hard hits and inaccurate swings. I have never used a puller to remove my hubs, only this. My father handed down this tool, as it existed before I knew what it was.

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                              Dis-Use on a Car is Worse Than Mis-Use...
                              1959 Studebaker Lark VIII 2DHTP

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