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  • #16
    I bought a 64 wagon many years ago that would turn slightly so I knew the engine was not stuck. The problem was the bottom end was fine but the heads had one or two valves rusted to the guides. This then bent a pushrod or two. Once I understood what was happening I stopped trying to turn it over. I pulled the heads and replaced them with a serviceable set I had on the shelf. The engine ran fine and didn't smoke or use excessive oil. The whole car was excellent, apart from the stuck valve, and all I had to do to get it on the road was one wheel cylinder and rebuild the distributor.

    Len

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    • #17
      Got it down to the short block. No rust or pits on the cylinder walls. Still won't budge. Five of the eight piston are still holding acetone/atf...

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      • #18
        Seems like a long time ago, but, I'm thinking it was forum member "gordr" who posted a thread about freeing up some stuck pistons. If I recall correctly, he used a piece of wood to span the surface of the pistons and gave them a gentle tap. ("Gentle" being a judgement call.) Since you have made this much disassembly... have you also removed the oil pan and inspected the bottom end? You are almost there. Those cylinders holding all the penetrate oil would be my first candidates for the gentle taps. If you do this, please come back and let us know what works, and what you find.
        John Clary
        Greer, SC

        SDC member since 1975

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        • #19
          Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View Post
          Got it down to the short block. No rust or pits on the cylinder walls. Still won't budge. Five of the eight piston are still holding acetone/atf...
          Did you remove the valley cover and check the lifters. I have had blocks that had lifters rusted to their bores, which will stop the cam from turning and this will then stop the crank.

          Len

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          • #20
            So far, I haven't found/seen any rust in/on anything. Lifters are all free...heads are off, valves are all free I'll cut a wood block and start on the 5 non-leaking pistons...

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            • #21
              A self proclaimed flipper here used to brag about getting pistons unstuck with Kroil, a block of wood and a BFH. He did not drive them, just flipped them.

              If you get yours broke loose, you can flip it too

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              • #22
                JOEHALL - Not hardly. I have wanted a Sky Hawk for decades...

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View Post
                  JOEHALL - Not hardly. I have wanted a Sky Hawk for decades...
                  Just kidding, and I do understand. I've had a love affair with 56Js since the late 1960s when I saw and bought my first one. Dad and I looked in several car lots, beginning a few months prior to me turning 16. We'd looked at lots of cars, but nothing tickled my fancy. When we stopped to look at that black 56J, when within 100 feet of it, I knew it was the car for me. We bought it for $250; I drove it in high school, but sold it just prior to joining the USMC in 1970. In 1986, I got another 56J, and have continued to live the dream ever since; have now have driven five 56Js, a cumulative total of around 225,000 miles.

                  FOLLOW YOUR DREAM MAN !

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                  • #24
                    Been down this road a few times.used a product called Krud Kutter to dissolve rust in a badly stuck cyl. in a 60 lark rag top in 70's. still own car and drive it on occasion. one pitted cylinder still but thats ok. krud kutter works,read directions. luck Doofus

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                    • #25
                      Right or Wrong.............

                      On my 64 GT we started slowly and tried EVERYTHING suggested here, we still had 3 stuck pistons six weeks later. Finally I decided we were going to loosen the main and rod caps.....still no success. We then removed all the mains and rod caps lifted the crank out and gently pushed put the free pistons. Down to 3 pistons we used wood, one piston free....then we decided we were buying new pistons anyway and a heavy metal bar persuaded the remaining two pistons. Be careful and work slow............use the inside support portion of the piston. Stay clear of rods and the piston to cylinder wall.

                      I would also ask my engine refurbishing shop to ONLY oversize what is needed, save a little for the next owner as there will be one........
                      It is an addiction!

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by jbwhttail View Post
                        Right or Wrong.............

                        On my 64 GT we started slowly and tried EVERYTHING suggested here, we still had 3 stuck pistons six weeks later. Finally I decided we were going to loosen the main and rod caps.....still no success. We then removed all the mains and rod caps lifted the crank out and gently pushed put the free pistons. Down to 3 pistons we used wood, one piston free....then we decided we were buying new pistons anyway and a heavy metal bar persuaded the remaining two pistons. Be careful and work slow............use the inside support portion of the piston. Stay clear of rods and the piston to cylinder wall.

                        I would also ask my engine refurbishing shop to ONLY oversize what is needed, save a little for the next owner as there will be one........
                        Every time I've had to destroy a piston to get it out, the cylinder needed sleeving, due to pits too deep to clean up with OS pistons. You got lucky if yours did not need any sleeves. Glad to hear it is coming together.

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                        • #27
                          I'm going to ask a dumb question: Are you sure the tranny isn't holding you back somehow? I'm a little confused on the whole "Every time I hit the remote start, the tip of the fan moves forward about a 1/16 of an inch or so, then moves back to where it was." The fan shouldn't move at all if the engine is actually stuck.....

                          I'm thinking pull the starter and rock that engine back and forth with a prybar on the flywheel teeth..... Make sure the tranny is not what's stuck as well...
                          OR there isn't a critter home in the bell-housing......

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                          • #28
                            Off the wall question here:
                            often in the world of machinery, we use heat and / or dry ice cooling to separate frozen parts.

                            For stuck pistons, after all else failed and crank is out of the way:
                            Could you run hot water through the block?
                            Maybe even put dry ice inside piston skirts from crankshaft side?

                            Coker

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                            • #29
                              MRS K CORBIN - That's got me confused, too! The transmission is in neutral, and you can move the car backwards and forwards. I'm wondering if I should try putting the trans in third, pushing it down the drive, and popping the clutch...

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View Post
                                MRS K CORBIN - That's got me confused, too! The transmission is in neutral, and you can move the car backwards and forwards. I'm wondering if I should try putting the trans in third, pushing it down the drive, and popping the clutch...
                                Not unless you have working brakes!
                                Bez Auto Alchemy
                                573-318-8948
                                http://bezautoalchemy.com


                                "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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