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  • doofus
    replied
    Old timers trick, with piston at TDC compression a little thin oil or wd40 dribbled on valve will show leakage or not. luck, Doofus

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  • Stevenlesser
    replied
    Hi,I have the head off and wondered if there was a way to asses the valves ? I cleaned them up,from the top and sides,the don't wiggle in the guides ,don't look burnt or chipped ,I spun the engine with the nut in front and all of them seem to close fully and open ok ,anything else I can do? I didn't know if it was hard to get to the guides with the engine in place

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  • PackardV8
    replied
    Originally posted by Conky View Post
    Thanks guys.That's very helpful. I'm thinking that if I make a driving tool that has a portion that fits inside the guide I can avoid distortion. It would have a provision for extraction of course.
    Unfortunately, that's not what happens. The act of driving the guide will almost always slightly mushroom the top. The valve might not stick, but the correct method is to ream the guides to the specified dimension after installation. It's easy, fast and if someone brought in a block, my machinist wouldn't charge much to ream guides to size.

    As far as extraction, make the tool long enough to drive old guides out the bottom. The 5/16" tool for air hammers is inexpensive, as is an air hammer. I drove old guides out and new guides in in less than five minutes.

    jack vines

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  • Conky
    replied
    Thanks guys.That's very helpful. I'm thinking that if I make a driving tool that has a portion that fits inside the guide I can avoid distortion. It would have a provision for extraction of course.

    Leave a comment:


  • PackardV8
    replied
    An air hammer with the proper 5/16" mandrel is the preferred tool to remove and install Champion valve guides. It takes only a few seconds per guide.

    FWIW, driving in new valve guides is only half the process. The act of driving will inevitably distort the top of the guide. The next step is to ream to final ID. That requires a precision reamer.

    jack vines

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  • Mike Van Veghten
    replied
    I've used both a heavy hammer and an air hammer, both with a home made mandrel (tool to push on the guide, but not damage the guide bore).
    Similar outcome using both.

    Mike
    Last edited by Mike Van Veghten; 04-09-2016, 08:38 AM.

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  • Conky
    replied
    Thank you, that is what I needed know. Can the replacements simply driven in?

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  • doofus
    replied
    I have been known to use a slide hammer puller and long bolt and nut if engine is still in chassis. otherwise they are driven into the tappet chamber with lifter down or out. Luck Doofus

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  • Conky
    started a topic Engine: Valve guides

    Valve guides

    How does one remove and replace valve guides in a 1940 Champion? Thanks much!
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