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  • #16
    http://www.amazon.com/Moeller-Marine...uckduckgo-d-20

    Robert Kapteyn

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    • #17
      The universal sending units are sold by Moeller Marine Products in Sparta, TN. The gasket and screws are sold separately. Does anyone know how to adjust the unit properly to calibrate it to the resistance range of a '62-'64 GT Hawk gas gage? What are the ohm readings for empty and full on our gages and what should the travel be on the arm of the sending unit? Does the internal plastic housing for the measuring apparatus get submerged with a full tank of gas?

      I think a lot of Studebaker owners have been spending a lot of money for a long time replacing original sending units. If this universal sending unit works, THANK YOU!

      More info about the gasket and screws for the sending unit mounting flange:

      Bob Kapteyn wrote in the #70 issue of the 56J Only Newsletter:

      "The screws used [to hold the flange to the tank] were a #10 screw with a very coarse thread almost like a sheet metal screw. These would rust and would not tighten very well. I used some Teflon thread sealing compound that both sealed the screw and lubricated it so it could be tightened more.The gaskets that are being sold by most of the vendors are reproduction made from neoprene. These gaskets are too hard and will sometimes not seal. Use the original cork gaskets as Studebaker designed it originally.

      There was a special washer used under the screw head, Studebaker part number 187763. This is a soft copper washer that would crush and seal the head of the screw. These are no longer available but I found a substitute in the McMaster Carr catalog #93781A011 (telephone # 630 833-0300). These have a nitrile rubber seal that stands up to gasoline.

      They are rather expensive and you have to buy (10) for $14.00. You can also use a red RTV sealer (from your local auto parts store) on the rubber gasket. Use sparingly, care must be taken not to get it in the tank."

      I wrote about the gasket in the #74 56J Only Newsletter that the McMaster Carr 93781A011 pressure sealing washers worked well for me on my 56J and that the gasket is also available from Chevs of the 40's, 1605 NE 112th St., Vancouver, WA 98686, tel. no. (800) 999-2438, P/N 1516061 31/54 for $2.25 -- then. They're probably the same fit for the 62-64 GTs as well as the 56J.
      Last edited by 56GH; 04-04-2016, 02:16 PM. Reason: More information
      Bill L.
      1962 GT Hawk

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      • #18
        To the best of my knowledge, Studebaker used gauges that were calibrated to the "Industry Standard", 33-240 OHMS. I didn't have to do anything to make this unit work in my 63 Daytona, except modify the float rod to correspond to my tank depth. Measure your tank depth, (remove sender and measure from bottom of tank to top). Adjust the float rod with the float installed to work in that amount of space, full up to full down. That should give you full and empty.
        The entire unit gets submerged when the tank is full, just like the original one. The unit can be turned on the mounting flange to get the correct float direction. Mine came with a gasket. I did this over a year ago and it's working perfectly.
        Originally posted by 56GH View Post
        The universal sending units are sold by Moeller Marine Products in Sparta, TN. The gasket and screws are sold separately. Does anyone know how to adjust the unit properly to calibrate it to the resistance range of a '62-'64 GT Hawk gas gage? What are the ohm readings for empty and full on our gages and what should the travel be on the arm of the sending unit? Does the internal plastic housing for the measuring apparatus get submerged with a full tank of gas?

        I think a lot of Studebaker owners have been spending a lot of money for a long time replacing original sending units. If this universal sending unit works, THANK YOU!
        sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
        1950 Champion Convertible
        1950 Champion 4Dr
        1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
        1957 Thunderbird

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by Flat Ernie View Post
          How have you traced the problem to the sending units?
          From one of our more technically minded customers -

          Checked fuel sender resistance and gauge (which is N.O.S. - 1962 Lark). Fuel sender is 240-30 ohms (empty-full) which appears standard. I purchased a RESISTANCE WHEEL from Jaycar to check fuel gauge - http://www.jaycar.com.au/Passive-Com...Wheel/p/RR0700

          Results on gauge with resistance wheel connected at joiner between front and rear wiring loom at left front firewall are -
          220 ohms - empty
          150 ohms - 1/4
          100 ohms - 1/2
          56 ohms - way past full.

          It appears fuel sender resistance does not match fuel gauge.

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          • #20
            I just installed a Moeller in my Champ. It came with gasket and screws. Easy adjustment.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by stude dude View Post
              From one of our more technically minded customers -

              Checked fuel sender resistance and gauge (which is N.O.S. - 1962 Lark). Fuel sender is 240-30 ohms (empty-full) which appears standard. I purchased a RESISTANCE WHEEL from Jaycar to check fuel gauge - http://www.jaycar.com.au/Passive-Com...Wheel/p/RR0700

              Results on gauge with resistance wheel connected at joiner between front and rear wiring loom at left front firewall are -
              220 ohms - empty
              150 ohms - 1/4
              100 ohms - 1/2
              56 ohms - way past full.

              It appears fuel sender resistance does not match fuel gauge.
              240-30 ohms is one of the industry standards, and appears to be the standard used by Studebaker in the 60s. NOS doesn't always mean good. If he's reading "way past full" at 56 ohms, there's likely a problem with his gauge.

              However, if Studebaker didn't use the industry standard, this is an easy problem to solve. Using his 'resistance wheel' - also called a potentiometer - He can find what his full resistance is for his gauge and find a stand-alone resistor that matches the value difference between the sending unit and the gauge and then wire it in series with the sending unit.

              For example, if he finds that his gauge reads "full" at 70 ohms, and the sending unit uses 33 ohms, simply wire a resistor of 44 ohms (77-33) in series with the sending unit wire to the gauge. His gauge will read full at full, but may read inaccurately at other levels.

              Another solution may be found in adjusting the arm. This will not allow full travel to the full position, so that the float hits the tank top once it reaches the desired resistance.



              Other industry standards are, from empty to full:

              0-90 ohms (generally used by GM from mid-60s up)
              0-30 ohms (generally used by GM before mid-60s)
              73-10 ohms (generally used by Ford & Chrysler until early '90s)
              240-33 ohms (generic, industry standard for most makes not specifically listed)
              Last edited by Flat Ernie; 04-05-2016, 10:50 AM.
              -------------------
              Daddy always said, if yer gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough & I\'m one tough sumbiatch!

              Comment


              • #22
                I just finished accessing my fuel sending unit (59 Silver Hawk) . I followed the service manual instructions. Removed sending unit wire, turned ign "on" and it registered Empty. Then, with the wire still removed, I grounded the wire directly to battery ground ("ign on") and the gauge went to full. That's exactly what's supposed to happen if the gauge and the wire are good. So I guess I'll order a Moeller Sending unit and swap it out. I did find that the Moeller unit 035725-10 is designed for 240-33 Ohm gauges. According to everyone here it should be the same as the original sending unit (Ohmwise).

                I want to thank everyone who gave info on this subject!!

                Oh, one more thing....I noticed that there was no ground wire on any of the screws, is that normal??

                treblig

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                • #23
                  Yes, the tank is grounded by being bolted to the frame.
                  Originally posted by Treblig View Post
                  I just finished accessing my fuel sending unit (59 Silver Hawk) . I followed the service manual instructions. Removed sending unit wire, turned ign "on" and it registered Empty. Then, with the wire still removed, I grounded the wire directly to battery ground ("ign on") and the gauge went to full. That's exactly what's supposed to happen if the gauge and the wire are good. So I guess I'll order a Moeller Sending unit and swap it out. I did find that the Moeller unit 035725-10 is designed for 240-33 Ohm gauges. According to everyone here it should be the same as the original sending unit (Ohmwise).

                  I want to thank everyone who gave info on this subject!!

                  Oh, one more thing....I noticed that there was no ground wire on any of the screws, is that normal??

                  treblig
                  sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
                  1950 Champion Convertible
                  1950 Champion 4Dr
                  1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
                  1957 Thunderbird

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Stumbled upon this good article for adjusting the sending unit...

                    http://www.mgexp.com/article/fuel-sender-adjust.html
                    -------------------
                    Daddy always said, if yer gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough & I\'m one tough sumbiatch!

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      I disagree with "never bending the arm". If the float hits the top or bottom of the tank before the rod arm hits the stops, what good was that adjustment?
                      Originally posted by Flat Ernie View Post
                      Stumbled upon this good article for adjusting the sending unit...

                      http://www.mgexp.com/article/fuel-sender-adjust.html
                      sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
                      1950 Champion Convertible
                      1950 Champion 4Dr
                      1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
                      1957 Thunderbird

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by thunderations View Post
                        I disagree with "never bending the arm". If the float hits the top or bottom of the tank before the rod arm hits the stops, what good was that adjustment?
                        I agree with "thunderations"!! I've installed universal type senders and you just have to make sure to hold (very firmly) the upper portion of the rod so you don't put pressure on the sensitive sender parts. By "very firmly" I mean gripping the upper part of the arm with duck bill pliers or vice grips just so that there's no load (twisting/pulling) on the sending unit itself.

                        treblig

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by thunderations View Post
                          I disagree with "never bending the arm". If the float hits the top or bottom of the tank before the rod arm hits the stops, what good was that adjustment?
                          I agree with you. I simply thought it was a good article from the stand point it told you how to check the meter range and adjust the stops to get the readings you need.

                          Bending the arm is irrelevant - so long as you have full range of motion and full is near the top and empty is near the bottom, it doesn't matter what shape the arm is...it's the arc is scribes within the tank that matters and where the float is at the top and bottom.
                          -------------------
                          Daddy always said, if yer gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough & I\'m one tough sumbiatch!

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            If, for some reason you can't get the exact readings, EMPTY is the most important thing to know. I can live with a gauge that only reads 3/4 when it's full or stays full for 100 miles before it starts to drop. If it doesn't tell you when it's empty, make sure you have a gas can and some comfortable walking shoes.
                            Originally posted by Flat Ernie View Post
                            I agree with you. I simply thought it was a good article from the stand point it told you how to check the meter range and adjust the stops to get the readings you need.

                            Bending the arm is irrelevant - so long as you have full range of motion and full is near the top and empty is near the bottom, it doesn't matter what shape the arm is...it's the arc is scribes within the tank that matters and where the float is at the top and bottom.
                            sigpic1966 Daytona (The First One)
                            1950 Champion Convertible
                            1950 Champion 4Dr
                            1955 President 2 Dr Hardtop
                            1957 Thunderbird

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Originally posted by Flat Ernie View Post
                              I agree with you. I simply thought it was a good article from the stand point it told you how to check the meter range and adjust the stops to get the readings you need.

                              Bending the arm is irrelevant - so long as you have full range of motion and full is near the top and empty is near the bottom, it doesn't matter what shape the arm is...it's the arc is scribes within the tank that matters and where the float is at the top and bottom.
                              Yes Flat Ernie, the web site that you posted has some very good info!!

                              treblig

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                I repaired mine today in my 63 Cruiser. I had a foam carb float, not sure what carb it came from. I removed the cork, pushed the wire through the foam float and replaced the small washer on the end. Seems to be working OK.

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