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How can i remove broken 64 daytona hood bolts??--any help appreciated// geoff gogle

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  • Body / Glass: How can i remove broken 64 daytona hood bolts??--any help appreciated// geoff gogle

    I need some professional advice on removing broken hood-hinge bolts on our 64 daytona hardtop??--any help appreciated//thank you geoff gogle

  • #2
    Where are they broke? in the hood or on the fender well? Is any of the old bolt still left above the level of the hood or skirt?


    • #3
      I just saw a thread on the HAMB today about the Rescue Bit. Do a search and you can see a demonstration. I think I am going to have to have one. It may be the answer to your situation also.

      Here a link to their demonstration:
      Last edited by 5brown1; 02-29-2016, 12:06 PM.


      • #4
        In the fender well//very difficult to work in that area//---the weight of that hood held up by 4 x 3/8th bolts seems a bit too weak//


        • #5
          as always, pix would help. Is there a stub to work with, or it broken below the surface?

          How did they break? Snapped while loosening? If so, rust may have a REAL firm grip on it. So direct efforts with EZ outs etc will result in busted EZ outs, which is a much bigger problem.

          "primum non nocere." First, do no harm, such as

          I generally start with a few days soaking with PB Blaster or Kroil.
          Then some moderate impact to break the fat rust grains. Then drill a carefully centered hole with a smallish left had drill bit. Sometimes (Sunday, right after church) the stub will wind right out during the drilling.

          Then work up closer to EZ out size with LH drills, not drilling all the way thru yet, leaving a shoulder at the bottom of the hole so I can whack the stub without mushrooming the stub tighter. Might try an impact hammer for a few seconds fed low pressure so it is more like a buzz, then gently try an EZ out.

          If the still substantial stub still does not move, I'd fire up the OxyAcetylene torch and heat the stub red, and try an EZ out when it cools to black. So far that has never failed.

          Drilling and tapping requires precision much better than anything I can do manually


          • #6
            If there is a way to get heat to it with out hurting anything and a way to get a vise grip on whats left of the bolt heat it to red hot and melt some plan old candle wax on the treads as best you can and they will usally come right out. I know some of you will say candle wax? Try it you will not believe what it does to a bolt that wont come out. Couldn't believe it myself the first time I tryed it.


            • #7
              I've tried the candle wax trick and gotten out exhaust manifold studs ! Luck Doofus


              • #8
                These are the bolts that hold the fixed leaf of the hinge to the cowl? My go-to for things like this is the MIG welder. Use it to build up a little cone of metal on the broken end of the bolt, then fit a suitable nut over that cone, and weld it solidly to the cone. Allow the weld to cool, and spray penetrating oil, or use the candle wax. With a wrench carefully work the nut both right and left to break the rust bond, then spin it out. If the cone of metal breaks off, start over. The repeated heat/cool cycles will eventually break the rust bond. I've had to do it six times or more on some stubborn ones, but yield they do.

                You can make a mask of sheet copper with a hole punched in it prevent the MIG wire from going astray and welding the bolt to the body, but if your hand is steady, you won't need it. Once you get used to doing broken bolts this way, you will rarely ever be tempted to pick up a drill again. It really is very easy, and it leaves the threaded hole intact.
                Gord Richmond, within Weasel range of the Alberta Badlands


                • #9
                  Hey you guys //thanks so much for the sound advice//--i now have an idea where to start//regards geoffgogle