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Clutch/brake return springs.

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  • Clutch/Torque Converter: Clutch/brake return springs.

    I received a new clutch and a new brake return spring for my 55 a while back. I tried to install them and found out those things were really stiff and needed to be stretched a couple inches to install. The springs look to be the right size but there is no way I could pull them hard enough to get them on. I searched the archives through google and found only one reference. A suggestion to shove quarters between the coils to lengthen them. I'm not sure about this. Any one have any ideas?

  • #2
    My transmission mechanic just put a new spring on the clutch of my Champ Truck. He just found one the right length in his shop since we did not have the original. It may have rusted off at some point. The spring he put on was definitely not strong enough to do the job. That is probably why yours are so short and stiff. Can you hook one end and use the shank of a screwdriver to hook on the other and and use both hands/arms to pull or push the spring out to length?
    Ed Sallia
    Dundee, OR

    Sol Lucet Omnibus

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    • #3
      I had the same issue with the clutch return spring when replacing the master on my Hawk. Put one end of the spring in a vise, bend to open it up and stick some dimes, pennies or thin washers to extend its length. Quarters would be too thick. Once it's on and you press the clutch they will fall or you can pull them out.

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      • #4
        I use a long pointed awl tip in the spring hole in the shoe, end of spring on the shaft, lever till tip is at the shoe hole and maneuver tip with a needle nose till it pops in, One of these works better, but I can't find mine, and all my new cars have disc brakes, so I'm not trying to find it very hard--only really useful for drum brake springs.
        http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/brake...FYIfhgodiLAEhw

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        • #5
          Fred, he's talking about a clutch return spring.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by tim333 View Post
            Fred, he's talking about a clutch return spring.
            Both per title and the tool will stretch the under dash springs as well.

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            • #7
              I use the brake shoe return spring tool shown to install the clutch pedal spring. For the brake pedal spring, I remove the metal shield under the pedals, attach the spring to the "thingie" on the brake pedal, and then using a vice grips, stretch it toward the front and slip it into the hole in the frame. Not real easy, but it does work. Hope this helps.
              Howard - Los Angeles chapter SDC
              '53 Commander Starliner (Finally running and driving, but still in process)
              '56 Golden Hawk (3 speed/overdrive, Power steering - Running, but not yet driving)
              '62 GT Hawk (4 speed, A/C, Power steering - running and DRIVING!)

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              • #8
                I couldn't find enough room under the car to open the brake tool hence using the washers in the spring.

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                • #9
                  go to the hardware store and buy the springs that completely return the pedals to the rubber stop....

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by jackb View Post
                    go to the hardware store and buy the springs that completely return the pedals to the rubber stop....
                    Don't these spring go over center when the pedal is pushed, so the actually work both ways. They return the pedal to full off, and when pushed over center they also help apply pressure, at least for the clutch?
                    If that is the case, then I'd want the factory springs for the correct force.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by TWChamp View Post
                      Don't these spring go over center when the pedal is pushed, so the actually work both ways. They return the pedal to full off, and when pushed over center they also help apply pressure, at least for the clutch?
                      If that is the case, then I'd want the factory springs for the correct force.
                      Yes, that is how that spring works.

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                      • #12
                        these springs are from SDI and are supposed to be equivalent to originals. tried prying them on with a screwdriver as on a brake shoe spring but there was no way. They are thick spring wire and close wound. Couldn't find any special instructions in the shop manual. I'll try the two bit nickle and dime method.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by gpete View Post
                          these springs are from SDI and are supposed to be equivalent to originals. tried prying them on with a screwdriver as on a brake shoe spring but there was no way. They are thick spring wire and close wound. Couldn't find any special instructions in the shop manual. I'll try the two bit nickle and dime method.
                          I like the coin between coils trick. I first learned about it a couple years ago, but haven't tried it yet. On tough springs I have clamped on a Vice Grip real tight, then wear leather gloves, brace myself, and pull like crazy. This has worked for my, but the coins sounds easier and safer.

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                          • #14
                            Some time ago, Bob Andrews recommended winding a bunch of loops of nylon string around the end of the spring and then just pulling on it by hand. It allows you to twist the end of the spring to match the hole, and the string can be pulled out afterward. It has worked for me.
                            Skip Lackie

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                            • #15
                              I think I got the wrong spring. This thing is so stiff when I tried prying with a good screwdriver it sprung the driver over into a bow and didn't move the spring a bit. I routinely pull brake shoe springs on and off with vise grips but it had no effect on this monster; only slid my whole body. I weigh 220 pounds and not much of it is fat. I looked at my new spring and old one carefully and the new one has slightly heavier wire and somewhat larger loops. It's a repro or something they thought matched. GP

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