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65 Daytona - rear brake drum removal

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  • Rear Axle: 65 Daytona - rear brake drum removal

    I am finally getting to working on a 65 Daytona that I bought a few years ago. Has been sitting for years - very rusty! Rear wheels are locked up - want to just get it so I can move it around fairly easily, not ready to dismantle it yet.
    I freed up the front wheels easily but now am having a lot of trouble with the rears. They did reluctantly turn when we moved the vehicle a couple of years ago but will not turn by hand. I think I have been able to free the E-brake cable but I cannot get the adjusters to budge. Threads seem seized. I think someone has previously tried and the teeth on the adjusters are rounded! I have put lots of penetrating oil on them. Any suggestions??

    Now my main question.... I have been looking at the shop manuals that I have and they are quite confusing when it comes to drum removal. I think that I have "flanged" axle as opposed to the tapered type with the nut. I see reference on the forum to using pullers on these drums and they are very hard to get off. What type of puller do I use. Does it pull on the drum itself or one the bolts. I have been seeing some videos showing people using quite large hammers on drums ... I thought they brook quite easily??

    There were some little "keepers" on a couple of the wheel studs. This makes me think the drum should come off and leave the studs as part of the axle flange. Is this a correct assumption?

    Thanks for your time, You guys will be sick of me by the time this project gets done!

  • #2
    If you have flanged axles then the drum must come off the studs....the studs will stay with the axle. This is the type of set up more modern cars using rear drum brakes have. If there are still "keepers" on the studs you need to take those off before you pull the drum off. Drums on flanged axles often fit tight where the drum makes contact with the axle. Once you have the keepers off and you soak the drum around the studs with penetrating oil you may be able to use a hammer to break the rust between the drum and axle by tapping around the drum creating significant vibration.

    With a tapered axle the drum and hub are pulled from the axle by using a puller on the studs. On a flanged axle the drum comes off leaving the axle and studs in place.


    • #3
      Thanks for your response. You have confirmed that I am on the right track. I have made some progress this afternoon and I have drilled out the brake shoe retaining pins from the back side and have removed the wheel cylinder bolts and line and e-cable mounting bolts. I am hoping that I can now use a drum puller hooked over the back outer edges of the drum with the center bolt pressure applied in the middle of the axle flange. All the shoes etc. that are seized should then come off with the drum I am hoping. I will rent a large puller tomorrow locally.


      • #4
        Hi Ron, Rich. here.

        I would not use a Puller that hooks the outer edge of the Drum because if you put more than a little pressure on it you will warp the Drum, and there is a good chance after removing some rust that they could be saved by Lathe Turning as New ones are not easy to find or cheap.

        You have to remember that these Cars have Automatic Brake Adjusters that keep the Linings pretty close to the Drum.
        The other issue is the one that has stopped you.
        That is the Starwheels will not turn until you lift the Follower "Blade" away from the wheel with a very thin tool.
        Try putting a LOT more light in the hole and see if you cane see what needs to be done to loosen the adjustment. The "Blade" will be on the Upper Side of the Starwheel.

        I do have all the replacement Parts to rebuild this Car here for '65's.

        Your Daytona Sports Sedan is a Late one with the Flanged axle.
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner


        • #5
          I large shop hammer (think sledge with a short handle) and a block of wood after liberal penetrating oil is all you need. Slam the sledge into the block up against the drum front and back then side to side should do it....

          Never use a puller with the hooks on the side of the drum. sure way to destroy it.


          • #6
            Hi Rich
            Good to here from you. Thanks for your input. I am aware of the Automatic Adjusters and I am pretty sure that I have been pushing the follower away. I was able to do that on the front wheels. The Starwheels won't budge in either direction and are visually very corroded. Good to know you have the parts to put it back together.


            • #7
              I recently had a flanged axle brake drum that was impossible to remove. As it turned out there was a deep ridge from wear on the outer lip along with a frozen adjuster. I had removed the pins holding the shoes to the backing plate along with the bolts for the wheel cylinder but nothing would brake this drum loose. I had even knocked the wheel studs in ending up cutting the drum off. After doing that I found the drum was junk after all & wouldn't have been useable if it had come off before I destroyed it.

              That project is on hold right now but when I get back to it I think I'll look into an Explorer rear with disc brakes, just need to see what year Explorer axle fits.
              59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
              60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
              61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
              62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
              62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
              62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
              63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
              63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
              64 Zip Van
              66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
              66 Cruiser V-8 auto


              • #8
                Had that frozen adjuster issue myself. Ended up using a long round thin punch to knock adjuster out of the shoes. Destroyed adjuster but it was junk anyway. Was able to pry shoes away from drum enough to remove drum.
                sigpic1957 Packard Clipper Country Sedan

                "There's nothing stronger than the heart of a volunteer"
                Lt. Col. Jimmy Doolittle
                "I have a great memory for forgetting things" Number 1 son, Lee Chan