Rear Axle: TT Twin Traction Axle Problem?

[Jalopynut]

I could use some advice from all of you Studebaker owners with experience with the Twin Traction rear axle. My 57 Golden Hawk originally came equipped with this axle according to the build sheet obtained from the Studebaker museum. When I removed the rear wheels and drums I noticed that the rear axle shaft on the drivers side must have come loose at one time or even broke. The rear seal metal keeper was wallowed out badly - as if the axle shaft was bouncing around. Also, when I raised the rear end and rotated the passenger side wheel, I got absolutely no rotation of the drivers side wheel. I have read where both sides should rotate in the same direction. So... do I have a problem and how serious is it? How hard is it to find a good replacement rear TT axle? Should I consider rebuilding the axle or is it not worth it?

Thanks for any help you can provide. I am about 50% done with the car but these types of challenges tend to de-rail progress for long periods of time.
Jim

[jackb]

I think you are referring to the "outer" seal that's encaged in the retainer..... If so, the out of round condition you refer to was probably the drum wearing that part out. The part (seal only, or complete) is still available from vendors here. Now your axle diagnosis may or may not be correct.
First question is: can you drive the car ?? I'm assuming, no. SO, you need to determine if you actually have TT. If there is no tag on the R/A cover plate, you then need to remove the fill screw and look to see if the internals are right up near the fill hole. If so, you probably have TT, but if not familiar, maybe not. If TT, your clutch plates may be worn eliminating opposite action....get back to us....

[Jalopynut]

Yes - I was referring to the outer sear and it is the retainer that has wallowed out to a slightly oval shape. The car is in pieces and I can't drive it right now. Before I tore it down I did drive it slightly - mostly up and off trailers and a loop or two around the yard without brakes. I have no other history on the car. When I removed the fill hole and tried to insert a finger I felt gears almost immediately - right near the entrance to the fill hole. On the R/A cover plate, on the left side is a small tag with 43/13 on it. On the right side is another tag with the letter "T" on it and nothing else. If this a TT axle and your diagnosis is correct (worn clutch plates), how involved is the repair? Can I get new clutch plates from a supplier and do this myself? If it is not a TT, is there something else wrong? Every other car I have tested in a similar manner always revolves the opposite way. This axle doesn't revolve at all
Thanks again for your initial response and in advance for any additional advice!
Jim.

[StudeRich]

You should have been touching the Twin Traction Drum close to the Oil Fill Hole, so it probably IS a TT Axle.
A '57 would have the early type coned Clutches, not the later Flat Type, usually the cheapest method to repair is to Buy the entire Rear Axle Drum to Drum or Axle to Axle, Housing and all as removed from a Model 44 equipped Studebaker V8, either open or Limited Slip, and replace the works.

Your current Ratio with a 43 Tooth Ring Gear and a 13 tooth Pinion Gear is 3.31, used with Automatic Trans. only most years.

This is where networking with Local Chapter Members and other Studebaker owners can be big help.
Even nearby other SDC Chapter Newsletters may advertise a For Sale complete 1960 to '66 289/283 Engined Car Model 44 Rear End, or '53 to '58 Commander or President V8 Rear End.

The other more expensive method is, rebuilding pretty much everything inside of your housing, the Ring and Pinion specialists and 4X4 Shops have Parts and experience with rebuilding Dana Model 44's used in Jeeps, Trucks, etc.

Yukon makes New Limited Slip units for these Dana's. Here is one Good Parts Source:

https://www.ringpinion.com/

[Jalopynut]

OK - very helpful StudeRich!
I will network a while and see what I come up with. To clarify, all Dana 44 axles are TT's, correct? Is there a reason I should look for a 1960 to '66 289/283 Engined Car Model 44 Rear End, or '53 to '58 Commander or President V8 Rear End? Are these axles better or different from 56-60 Hawks? How would I know if a rear end is OK mechanically when I buy one? I would hate to buy something that also needs repair. Also, is there a risk to driving with my current rear axle even though it doesn't function as a TT should? What is the difference between limited slip or "open" axle? I really apologize for the questions - I am somewhat new to this stuff and certainly appreciate the education!

Jim

[karterfred88]

OK - very helpful StudeRich!
I will network a while and see what I come up with. To clarify, all Dana 44 axles are TT's, correct? Is there a reason I should look for a 1960 to '66 289/283 Engined Car Model 44 Rear End, or '53 to '58 Commander or President V8 Rear End? Are these axles better or different from 56-60 Hawks? How would I know if a rear end is OK mechanically when I buy one? I would hate to buy something that also needs repair. Also, is there a risk to driving with my current rear axle even though it doesn't function as a TT should? What is the difference between limited slip or "open" axle? I really apologize for the questions - I am somewhat new to this stuff and certainly appreciate the education!

Jim

No-not all Dana 44s are Twin Traction, many are not-probably most, as the TT was an option. It is usually noted on a tag attached to a differential cover bolt. As to need, other than authenticity and wanting the best traction from a standing start from both rear wheels, most people don't need or even know if they have it. Certainly an "open" assembly will be easier to find. Most Dana 44s fitted to a Studebaker since the early 50's should bolt right in, only you will need to swap over your brakes.

[Jalopynut]

OK - thanks for the input guys. One last question if you don't mind. When a TT Axle wears out the clutch cones/plates does it mean that the complete axle is shot and needs replacement? Or does it mean that one side will not work but the axle operates as if it were an open axle. If I can operate this car like it is while I search for a good TT axle that would be ideal. If it is unsafe, then I would appreciate knowing that now as I assemble the car.
Thanks - good stuff!
Jim

[Treblig]

OK - thanks for the input guys. One last question if you don't mind. When a TT Axle wears out the clutch cones/plates does it mean that the complete axle is shot and needs replacement? Or does it mean that one side will not work but the axle operates as if it were an open axle. If I can operate this car like it is while I search for a good TT axle that would be ideal. If it is unsafe, then I would appreciate knowing that now as I assemble the car.
Thanks - good stuff!
Jim

I'm going to eventually sell the TT out of a low mileage '59 Silver Hawk. I swapped out the motor/trans and plan to put a heavy duty rear end in the car. Unfortunately I won't be doing the swap for a few months and I live in S. Texas.

treblig

[Treblig]

PM answered.

Treblig

[Treblig]

Looks like a 3.31 gear ratio.

Treblig