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Resurfacing Existing paint

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  • Paint: Resurfacing Existing paint

    When an expert uses an abrasive to remove the crud to the existing paint, should he use any product prior to the abrasive substance to prep or soften it? Also after the abrasive removal of crud , does the expert replace with a glaze and a sealant followed by a Canuba wax ? After some research I am not sure of the order or the correct product for each purchase
    1) what product should be used prior to abrasive treatment
    2) abrasive product is the choice of the body shop
    3) glaze? Or sealant ? What order? Two separate ? One only ? How many coats?
    4) canuba wax

    Products that stand out
    Kassel High Gloss Sealant Glaze with ? Amount of coats

    Sonus SFX-2
    Sonus SFX-3
    Finally P21S Canuba Wax

    Which products are best and the order/ number of coats of each?
    Thanks for all your help

  • #2
    If you're looking to remove a top layer of faded, oxidized paint, go to Harbor Freight and buy one of their inexpensive buffer/polisher machines....

    Then purchase a buffing pad (or two) and a quart of 3M 'light' machine compound and use as directed.

    If you end up with 'swirls' in the paint, there's also a machine polish available to eliminate those!

    Follow with one or two coats of any quality paste (carnuba) wax.

    (All this is assuming that there's enough healthy paint left on the vehicle to work with!)

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    • #3
      I did my 1950 Studebaker from El Paso by hand using rubbing compound. It was a lot of work but changed the paint from dull silver to bright blue. If you use a rotary buffer be sure when you get to the edge of any panel that you tilt the buffing wheel so only the side of the wheel moving away from the panel does the rubbing. If you have the pad rubbing on the side moving into the panel edge you will quickly be down to bare metal.

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      • #4
        WARNING

        Without any experience using buffers and compound, I would stongly recomend doing by hand to prevent destroying your existing finish. The warning comes from many years of professional experience in a body and paint shop.

        Dave.

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        • #5
          Yea...BE CAREFUL AROUND THE CORNERS AND EDGES.
          They'll be missing paint very quickly if not very careful.

          Mike

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          • #6
            AND around the antennas!!

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            • #7
              Might I suggest a nice big CLAY BAR, kneaded often before you start with abrasives.When I received my Hawk, it was dull gray to the hand as well as the eyes. You would not believe the years and years of Los Angeles smog that was removed from the paint, changing the bar from blue to brownish gray.

              The brand I used is ClayMagic. They make different grades (fine, medium, etc...) for your applications.

              Since I did not know the thickness and condition of the paint, I hand-applied Paint Cleaner, Polish then Wax the car had a nice deep shine.

              If your car has original paint, be also aware that the paint on top of fenders, etc...is slightly thinner than on the sides.
              Andy
              62 GT

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              • #8
                The idea of getting the 'junk' out of the paint with a clay bar is a very good start. You can then follow with an ultra fine wet sand paper ( they now make it as fine as 3000 grit), then buff with a foam pad, not a wool pad. A bit of trial and error will tell you if you have to go down to 2000 grit or even 1500. Be patient, take your time. Click image for larger version

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                • #9
                  If I recall, there was a 'how-to' article in Car Craft several years ago which dealt with this very issue.The guys there resurrected old, faded paint on an early 70's Dodge Dart.It was that godawful drab green that they must have used on a million vehicles.When they finished it out, it didn't look 'showroom new' but it was certainly driver/cruise night presentable.

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