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  • Fuel System: Existing Gas Tank Sending Unit

    For now, I'm going to do this and if it doesn't work, I'll just work out an alternate solution for the time being...maybe a marked stick in two pieces that goes past the filler elbow?

    Anyway, on my '52 2R17, I took the existing sending unit out and left it aside for weeks not wanting to fuss with it; this weekend I did get around to trying to clean it, having been in a non running truck for over 10 years, it and the float and arm were lacquered, but as I started to clean it, it turned out to be a lot easier to clean than I expected and after wire brushing and sanding the sending unit can clean and filing the connections shiny, I put it back in the tank with a new gasket. I still have to get a new sending wire and attach it, but what are my odds it may still actually work?

  • #2
    if you get lucky, it might work..... Mine did for a while....

    If you need an alternative that includes the 'Dip Stick' I used a busted sender unit top, welded on a bung fitting that I could unscrew and dipstick with a marked dowel rod.

    Of course the busted sender unit top must not be on the tank when the bung fitting is welded on!

    It does involve flipping the seat forward, but works well and allows me to fill the tank without overfilling....

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    • #3
      check it out with an ohm meter before installing.

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      • #4
        I usually check the amount of the gas in the tank using a match to provide light into the tank so I can see the level.......Remove the cap, light the match, hold it real close to the filler neck. If you still can't see, throw the lit match in the tank so it will light it from the inside. I prefer the wooden matches. The cardboard packs burn my fingers unless I light the whole book.
        Dis-Use on a Car is Worse Than Mis-Use...
        1959 Studebaker Lark VIII 2DHTP

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        • #5
          Originally posted by BILT4ME View Post
          I usually check the amount of the gas in the tank using a match to provide light into the tank so I can see the level.......Remove the cap, light the match, hold it real close to the filler neck. If you still can't see, throw the lit match in the tank so it will light it from the inside. I prefer the wooden matches. The cardboard packs burn my fingers unless I light the whole book.
          Good suggestion! Will try that next time . . . . .
          Skip Lackie

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Mrs K Corbin View Post
            if you get lucky, it might work..... Mine did for a while....

            If you need an alternative that includes the 'Dip Stick' I used a busted sender unit top, welded on a bung fitting that I could unscrew and dipstick with a marked dowel rod.

            Of course the busted sender unit top must not be on the tank when the bung fitting is welded on!

            It does involve flipping the seat forward, but works well and allows me to fill the tank without overfilling....
            I got you. It's an option I can keep on file, thanks.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by 5brown1 View Post
              check it out with an ohm meter before installing.
              I ran over the process with someone about this this morning. I think even I can follow what I need to do and look for! That's a nice feeling.

              - - - Updated - - -

              Originally posted by BILT4ME View Post
              I usually check the amount of the gas in the tank using a match to provide light into the tank so I can see the level.......Remove the cap, light the match, hold it real close to the filler neck. If you still can't see, throw the lit match in the tank so it will light it from the inside. I prefer the wooden matches. The cardboard packs burn my fingers unless I light the whole book.
              I need to use the long fireplace matches though, that filler neck is longer than the one on my Lark wagon.

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              • #8
                "I usually check the amount of the gas in the tank using a match to provide light"

                I have an old timie brass (Peerless or Husdon?) era owners manuals specifically warns against this!

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by skyway View Post
                  "I usually check the amount of the gas in the tank using a match to provide light"

                  I have an old timie brass (Peerless or Husdon?) era owners manuals specifically warns against this!
                  Wow, the mysteries of the old ways of doing things.

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                  • #10
                    I used to drive a 69 Chevy pickup with the gas fill immediately behind the drivers window and if the cap was left off, anything flicked from the driver's window could go down the gas tank filler neck. Fortunately, I don't smoke.

                    I always wondered what it would be like to light the rag stuffed into the gas filler neck on some of the older cars to see what happens with the rolling Molotov cocktail........


                    You know that if they made a line in the manual about not doing it, that SOMEONE actually did it!

                    If your sending unit doesn't work after you have it out, why not replace it with one that DOES work, even if it is from a different manufacturer? I guess when I drive my car, I don't want to have to have a stick to check my gas level and have to flip the seat forward and unscrew a plug. It will cost more to jury rig it than to replace it with one that works and in the long run, a lot less hassle.
                    Dis-Use on a Car is Worse Than Mis-Use...
                    1959 Studebaker Lark VIII 2DHTP

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                    • #11
                      I will replace it if I need to, but for now this is one of those many things I come across and have to ask, 'change this, use this?' before I even know if the truck will run. If it wasn't near $100 for a new sender for this tank, I'd have bought a new one and not worried about it. As for any jury rigging, it wouldn't be used for a long period of time once I find that the truck will run dependably.

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                      • #12
                        Problem that I have is that I'm not sure what sending unit or guage that I have, and have done a homegrown 12V conversion, so none of it's going to work correctly.
                        Easier for me to just flip the seat and dipstick it.

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                        • #13
                          Well, I checked the unit today and it swung wide and quick on both contacts, so it should work when I get it hooked back up. Woot!

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