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Recommendations for a 6V electric fuel pump

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  • #16
    No offense taken Nathan I appreciate the impending workload warning, I know I'm in the deep end, but I have some water wings with me and I'm just dog paddling along.

    As for the fuse block, do I just go to a FLAPS and ask for a fuse block? That's not been part of any information that's passed along to me, or any suggestion that, if you have X car, a Y amount slot fuse block will do you with basic needs or figure on 2 or 3 additional openings for future needs. Or Such and Such's fuse block works well. Nuttin'. I don't know, I don't think that's too much 'hand holding' to ask for, maybe it is but that's what I'd like to know.

    Also, for those who have done this, it'd be helpful if they'd pipe up with, 'I added one to my car/truck and stuck it HERE and it works well' or 'I stuck mine THERE and I wouldn't put it there again'.

    Lastly, this is a typically used until it didn't work 2T truck found non-operable out in a farmyard. A new wiring harness has always been on the table for me to get and keep it running reliably without worrying about crispy crunchy wire wrapping as I putt along. I'm working on it outside and I hear you about doing a jumping wire to the battery from that side of the coil. We discussed that, and it probably is a smart experiment to just do to rule out any issues with the coil/points/distributor. When we found that there wasn't juice to that end of the ignition wire, at least, it was late in the afternoon, we were cold and I just thought 'if I planned to install a new harness, now's as good a time as any'.

    The plugs are new, the points, rotor and contacts looked good enough to have produced some result, if juice had gotten to them we saw and evaluated.


    • #17
      OK, well like everything else on old cars the answer to your fuse block question is "It depends". Generally you want your fuses as close to the battery as possible. Any leads to the fuse block from the battery are not protected and a possible place for a short. But protection from the weather is important too. Modern cars tend to have two fuse panels for just that reason. One in a sealed box right next to the battery and another inside under the dash somewhere.

      I have never worked on a Stude truck but there should be a fairly hefty wire coming into the cab though the firewall grommet. That will go to one side of your ammeter. A wire from the other size of the ammeter will go to your fuse block which should be bolted to the back of the dash somewhere to the right of the steering column. That fuse block has only 3 or 4 fuses and is fairly pathetic. But if you tie your new fuse block in to the same place (back of the ammeter) you can mount the block on the back of the dash and it will be both protected and your ammeter will read correctly.

      If it were me I would want to get the truck running in some fashion before I started renovations. It might be sucking gas out of a coffee can and have every wire bypassed but then I would at least have some idea where the engine stands. It also is very encouraging to see the beast come to life. First rule when you are in a hole is to stop digging. The second is figure out how deep you already are.


      • #18
        Thanks for the input Nathan. I'll see what happens after we try jumping the coil to the battery. It's going to be a few days as I get to the rural location in a '60 Lark wagon and we just got around 8" of snow last night.
        Considering that, even after I get it running, I still haven't gotten to the brakes, wheels and bearings, it isn't like once I get it running I'm going anywhere.