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Tightening body to frame bolts. Feedback appreciated

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  • Body / Glass: Tightening body to frame bolts. Feedback appreciated

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  • #2
    I would guess tight would work. I think I would use a locking nut rather than a lock washer. I would think it would be less likely to come loose.

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    • #3
      Steve,

      I did use the locking nuts on the bolts under the body. I am very thankful for your suggestion. I will check to see if there are access holes under the frame below the screws that go into the frame. If so, I will run a lock nut up from underneath and lock the screw into the frame.

      Charlie D.
      Last edited by Charlie D; 10-16-2015, 05:18 PM.

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      • #4
        I wouldn't bother with a lock nut on the bolts going into the frame. After fighting the bolts on my 59 wagon I have used anti-seize on those bolts. As far as torque goes tighten them down to at least 25 ft/lbs & then be more concerned with the body alignment especially those in the area of the "A" pillar. Those will be a major effect on the front doors align to their adjoining panels. When I have the wagon all lined up I have a reinforcement made to strengthen the "A" pillar to the outermount of the crossmember (or batwing). It will be welded to the floor & pillar on the inside before a coat of POR15 & spray bedliner to prevent any future rust issues.
        59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
        60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
        61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
        62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
        62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
        62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
        63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
        63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
        64 Zip Van
        66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
        66 Cruiser V-8 auto

        Comment


        • #5
          https://www.danchuk.com/images/Downl...djustments.pdf

          Danchuk has some useful information on body mount shims in their newsletter.
          567 Update, Volume 11, Issue 2.
          They discuss torque.
          Pay close attention to door gaps as shown on page 3.
          "Follow closely because where you think shims should be placed is not necessarily the correct place."
          raylinrestorations.com has Studebaker specific info on their "Studebaker Body Assembly and Alignment" page.
          Last edited by 55 56 PREZ 4D; 10-16-2015, 10:33 PM.
          South Lompoc Studebaker

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          • #6
            That's good information Dan. Useful with Studebaker except for the part on front door hinges. Where they bolt to the "A" pillar there is no provision for adjustments on Studebakers. That part of the hinge bolts on without the ability to move.
            59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
            60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
            61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
            62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
            62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
            62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
            63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
            63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
            64 Zip Van
            66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
            66 Cruiser V-8 auto

            Comment


            • #7
              Warren true Studebaker didn't make an adjustment in the hinge but if needed you could build your own with slotted holes or shims.

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              • #8
                Thank you for the information and the link to the Danchuk article. I have referred to the Raylin site several times already but never saw the body panel alignment suggestions. It makes the reassembly of the car look a little daunting.

                Charlie D.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by swvalcon View Post
                  Warren true Studebaker didn't make an adjustment in the hinge but if needed you could build your own with slotted holes or shims.
                  The few Studebakers I've taken apart have a shim made the outline of the hinge strap where it bolts onto the door. The shim isn't smooth but is stamped with "teeth" sort of like it was hit with a meat tenderizer.
                  59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
                  60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
                  61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
                  62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
                  62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
                  62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
                  63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
                  63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
                  64 Zip Van
                  66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
                  66 Cruiser V-8 auto

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I bought a pack of 10 door shims for doors in South Bend back in the 80s. They sure looked like factory shims to me. 3 holes all different thickness.

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