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Project A: Add-a-leaf

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  • Project A: Add-a-leaf


    thanks for the info on re-arching.
    I noted when I drove the Avanti the 2200 miles, that the rear
    was "mushy." That may be an artifact of the fact that I have
    driven Euro-Cars for 30 years with heavy duty Bilsteins and
    Koni's. Looking at the leaf springs, the torque bars, and the
    anti-sway bars, I decided to start with the springs.
    (What I wouldn't do for some Bilsteins or Konis)

    Whatever, I have decided to start with an add-a-leaf, and save
    the re-arching for backup. Would use the add-a-leaf anyway in
    the re-arching.

    Question: Please keep comments to the question. I already
    have had lots of info on shocks, etc.
    1. what is the width of the springs. I measure 2.36 inch.
    2. Anyone have experience with this approach.
    3. Anyone have experience with Pro-Comp EXP-13120 short leaf
    4. Anyone have experience with Rough-Life 6104 short Leaf
    5. Other recommendations?


    Terry,
    1963 Avanti R2, 63SR1065 http://sterkel.org/avanti
    1985 Kubota L2202 (Diesel)
    2000 VW Jetta GLS

  • #2
    I have a set of Add-a-leafs in the garage I bought for the Avanti, and
    after the install realized I didnt need them, since the station wagon
    springs I was swapping in already HAD too much lift. If the backend
    is sagging, then an add-a-leaf will help, but if its mushy, you need
    shocks not springs. But you might be throwing good money at a problem
    that isnt going to get resolved until you put on NEW springs. The eye
    bushings are probably blown out also. www.eatonsprings.com carries a
    few different options for Studebakers. I looked into them. Also, if
    you are interested, there is an effort to have a run of fiberglass
    springs made for Avantis, which would also fit Larks. Fiberglass is
    not prone to a lot of the negatives of steel leafs.

    Contact "HNCadet" for more info.

    Tom

    '63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: 97 Z28 T-56 6-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires
    '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
    Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
    http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
    I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

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    • #3

      Here's a shot you might like...
      you can see the added leaf, 3rd one down. It was cut from an old spring pack, using a cut off wheel. I used one per side. The car, at rest, now sits with a slightly arched upward spring, whereas before it was slightly bowed upward. Gives a bit more rake also.
      The leafs are fairly easy to disassemble, but you need to take care handling the axle.

      64 GT Hawk (K7)
      1970 Avanti (R3)

      Comment


      • #4
        Someone (past owner) put an add-a-leaf kit on my 59 Lark, 2dr wagon. It's more of a helper in that it's only clamped at the rear of the leaves.
        The car has carried almost two full (in pieces!) Stude V-8 engines at one time. And this is "without" a harsh ride without the extra weight.

        On my old 56 Chevy, I added a second main leaf to the back of that. As I recall, it did stiffen the back, but again, not objectionably so.

        Something to think about...unless the spring company reheat-treats your springs after rearching....it won't be too long (miles) before the springs are right back to where they are now. And they are "not" stiffening when they rearch, only raising. To stiffen...leaves will need to be added...or thicker material leaves used in place of the originals.

        Hope that helps some

        Mike

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