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  • Engine: Oil Pan access/Motor mounts

    So, I took some photos tonight of the motor mounts and the area at the back of the oil pan. I sure as hell hope it's NOT necessary to acquire and install motor mounts on this puppy.

    Click image for larger version

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  • #2
    I have certainly seen worse motor mounts. Why are you concerned? Any rattles? Clunks? Shifting problems?
    When I replaced mine there was not much left:
    _______________
    http://stude.vonadatech.com
    https://jeepster.vonadatech.com

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    • #3
      Looking at replacement ones, I don't think these are bad. I posted them because someone thought I might have sagged out motor mounts causing me to not have easy access to the bolts at the back of the oil pan. I haven't tried too hard yet, but I'm definitely going to have to use a long, small 1/2" combination wrench to get at them, since they're directly over that cross member. I don't know what I'll do if there's a 3d bolt in the middle!!! They couldn't have designed that cross member 2" further back over the bell housing, noooooooo. smh.
      Maybe a u-joint socket knuckle and a very long ratchet extension might work....

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      • #4
        How about a 1/2" distributor wrench for those bolts?

        Or, how about heating and bending a 1/2" combination wrench?

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        • #5
          If you scrape off all the crud, you'll have more room to work!!!

          Glad to see someone else's car looks like that underneath! I just changed my trans fluid and cleaned the pan this past weekend and scraped 1/4" thick layer of oil and gravel to get to everything I needed. I think the car lost 30 LB!

          Apparently people have been working on them for years somehow. Maybe you just need the right combo of universals, sockets, and combo wrenches to get in there. I know I have had some where I have to use a combo wrench and flip it over for 1/16 turn at a time. It's long and tedious, but better than pulling the engine.

          Good luck!
          Dis-Use on a Car is Worse Than Mis-Use...
          1959 Studebaker Lark VIII 2DHTP

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          • #6
            Quite honestly, this is the kind of job that is best done with the engine OUT.
            Put it on an engine stand, give it a GOOD cleaning, flip it over and replace the Timing Cover Gasket & Seal, check the timing gears, check the Rods & Mains, replace the Rear Main Seal, New Pan Gasket, replace the Core Plugs and then you know you have a good leak free Engine, that will last quite a while.

            That is of course IF you gave it a compression test first, to know if you have a re-sealable Engine to start with.

            Anything less, is just a temporary Band-Aid.

            If this does not fit your mechanical expertise, time or budget, just forget I mentioned it.
            StudeRich
            Second Generation Stude Driver,
            Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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            • #7
              Thanks Rich, message heard. I think we'll take a compression gauge to it this weekend. I was going to ask if the maintenance the manual recommends for the -16s and -17s, where you take off the water pump and remove and clean some sort of water tube/gallery behind the water pump, is something I should plan to do?

              I hate to think the normal process for changing the oil pan gasket is to lift the engine, but dumber things have been expected.

              Thanks for the suggestions about the distrib wrench, I hadn't considered that, I was crossing my fingers that a socket and a u-joint extension would be a way to go, it's on my short list of things to do next.

              The initial goal was to pull the pan and clean out the innards and at least do a visual check if there was any obvious horrendous sights there. I should have thought about the compression check sooner.

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              • #8
                Lots of cars need the engine hoisted to get the pan off. With the right tools it is not usually that bad. Usually a couple of inches is all you need so most wires and such can stay connected. If you don't know what is in there it is worth it. I had about an inch of sandy tar in the bottom of mine.
                _______________
                http://stude.vonadatech.com
                https://jeepster.vonadatech.com

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                • #9
                  Yeah, it's going to get lifted when we get access to a lift in a few days. The radiator is out, so we should just need to unbolt the 4 engine mounts and lift up on the engine enough to get at the oil pan? I'm double checking the vacuum lines to see if they'll be a problem.

                  I get you, on what is inside the oil pan, it'll be interesting and likely not suitable for healthy engine operation, so it's going to get done. Tonight is the compression check.

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                  • #10
                    Well! I got these bastards out tonight!! I was under the truck in a certain position and thought I might try the bolts. There are 4 at the back of the pan and it took a socket, a universal joint, an adapter and a 3/8" drive socket with a 12-14" extension, in order to get an angle on the socket to approach the bolt. Plus a narrow light to get enough illumination to pick out the bolts in the center. Horrible.

                    If I ever have to do this again, I'm taking a drill and drilling a hole in the edge of the cross member on either side of the center so that at least, I can approach the bolts from a more straight angle directly under them. Even if it's just a big enough hole to insert the 3/8" extension. smdh.

                    Tomorrow, I'm dropping the pan to see what that might tell me. I'm going to replace the motor mounts so I'll be lifting the engine for that regardless. I can reattach the back four bolts then when the engine's lifted for the engine mount replacement.

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