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  • doofus
    replied
    If you suspect worn rockers use the "Mini" feeler guage blades its a bit narrower than the average worn rocker, having said that i had to replace a cam to get one 259 quiet! looked fine but couldn't get valves set properly. a mystery to this day!Good Luck , Doofus

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  • BILT4ME
    replied
    Yeah, I've seen all the controversy. I'm gonna follow the Shop Service Manual and back it up with my 1965 Motor manual. Both say intake/exhaust 0.025" - 0.027" cold. I've had my best luck on the SBC's I've done to do them cold. I tried doing them hot and even with the engine running and all that did was make a heck of a mess! The only trouble I have is knowing if I have the feeler gauges in straight or crooked or if there is a groove or ridge that is giving me a false reading.

    I've been around a lot of tractors with solid lifters and I know what they should sound like......a well-oiled sewing machine with the light tickety, tickety, tickety sounds.........I was hearing tickety, tickety, clackity, tickety, tickety......Just like that....really......

    I think I'm going to run the Castrol Dino-Synthetic-Organic blend high detergent oil afterwards so it only emits CO2 and smells like flowers when it runs.

    [QUOTE=55 56 PREZ 4D;987712]
    Originally posted by BILT4ME View Post
    Hi Joe!
    I know there are at least two cylinders that the rockers are a bit loose, as I could hear it when it was running.

    "If you can hear the valves when the engine is hot they are too loose, if you can't hear the valves when it is cold, they are too tight"
    "You should be able to hear the valves when hot, a slight clickity click, like a finely tuned sewing machine"
    "Adjust the valves a little tight"
    "Adjust both intake and exhaust to the same gap, been doing that for thousands of miles"
    "Adjust the valves cold"
    "Adjust the valves hot with the engine running"
    "Warm the engine, shut it off, adjust valves on one side [V8] warm the engine again, adjust valves on the other side"

    Almost like the dreaded oil controversy, you can read all kinds of opinions on how valves should be adjusted.
    Take your pick and go with it. If it's not running right, do them again.

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  • 55 56 PREZ 4D
    replied
    [QUOTE=BILT4ME;987684]Hi Joe!
    I know there are at least two cylinders that the rockers are a bit loose, as I could hear it when it was running.

    "If you can hear the valves when the engine is hot they are too loose, if you can't hear the valves when it is cold, they are too tight"
    "You should be able to hear the valves when hot, a slight clickity click, like a finely tuned sewing machine"
    "Adjust the valves a little tight"
    "Adjust both intake and exhaust to the same gap, been doing that for thousands of miles"
    "Adjust the valves cold"
    "Adjust the valves hot with the engine running"
    "Warm the engine, shut it off, adjust valves on one side [V8] warm the engine again, adjust valves on the other side"

    Almost like the dreaded oil controversy, you can read all kinds of opinions on how valves should be adjusted.
    Take your pick and go with it. If it's not running right, do them again.

    Leave a comment:


  • BILT4ME
    replied
    Thanks dpson!

    Originally posted by dpson View Post
    Here is link to the thread on the modern Ford valve seals: http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...okybaker-cured

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  • dpson
    replied
    Here is link to the thread on the modern Ford valve seals: http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...okybaker-cured

    Leave a comment:


  • BILT4ME
    replied
    Hi Joe!
    Actually, that was the reason I was going to do all this. My intent was to adjust the valves, but i also wanted to change the seals since I had the engine out. However, I do NOT want to disturb the head gasket in any way. Yes, i will be adjusting the valves. I did some preliminary checks, and they are all running surprisingly tight at 0.025" - 0.027" (within spec) I know there are at least two cylinders that the rockers are a bit loose, as I could hear it when it was running. I have never adjusted the valves, and I have put over 60K on this engine.

    Originally posted by JoeHall View Post
    Has the idea of adjusting the valves ever crossed your mind? I cannot believe none of the above responses mentioned it. If its been over 10,000 miles, its time to adjust them. If you do not know when it was last done, its time to adjust them. Might wanna have some new rocker covers on hand first, before pulling the rockers. If not, you could make your own, in a pinch. Just go to FLAPS and but some cork gasket material, the thicker the better, up to about 3/16".
    dpson:
    I bought the reseal kit from SI, and i will be using whatever seals are included in that kit. If they leak when I'm done or don't last, I now know more about what it takes to get them done and maybe I can redo them at that time. I don't have any blue smoke going on. I am replacing the seals because I have the engine out and I need to adjust the valves.

    Originally posted by dpson View Post
    Do a search on forum about the valve seals, there is a fairly modern Ford valve seal (I forget the application) that fits and works better than the Studebaker umbrella seals (subject to debate). I did this to a 1962 V8 and it cured the blue smoke problem. The old umbrella seals were hard as a rock and were no longer doing their job. As I recall I used compressed air to keep the valves from sliding down into the cylinders when the seals were replaced, there are other methods, rope etc. but compressed air worked best for me.
    StudeRich:
    I have the air fitting to pressurize the cylinder and I will try it that way. I guess I need to get a little more creative than what I was first thinking about doing the seals on these. maybe I'll make a step-by-step when I do this so it can benefit others when I'm done. I have done that with the Toyota Land Cruiser stuff I've done and the website dedicated to the land Cruisers works VERY well with everyone doing that. it REALLY preserves the knowledge and allows everyone else to learn. YouTube.

    Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
    I do not fool around jamming rope in the cylinders and maybe getting it stuck or losing some in there.
    All you have to do is put the Piston in the Cyl. you are working on at TDC, there is no way you could lose a Valve that way.

    Also I have used my spark plug fitting 14mm air chuck adapter to pressurize each cylinder as I use my "Y" Block Ford 292/312 type Lisle Valve Spring Compressor that is just a lever that hooks under the Rocker Shaft, to compress the spring and disassemble the Spring, Keepers and Retainer.

    Even though I know I could remove the Rockers and 4 Head bolts and re-torque the head bolts without any leaks or problems, this method does not require that.
    doofus:
    Thanks! I already own the valve spring compressor P/N 16550. I have used it in my past on a SBC, but the heads were off the block, and the rockers were out of the way. Since the rocker arm shaft is there, I have been reluctant to try and set up. I will spend some more in-depth time to figure out how to make all this work. Every night when I sleep on it, I get more ideas, and you guys have all helped me TREMENDOUSLY. I am NOT going to remove head bolts, as I have had bad experiences on the different brands and types of doing things half-assed, then have it "blow-up in my face" later. I am disappointed that I don't have enough time to go all-out on this engine because I have a 289 crank and pistons in my storage shed that are destined for this block. However, I was planning on porting heads, installing a different cam, and maybe a different carburetor, and balancing the entire assembly to make it a run and flow SMOOTH. Just not this time. This time is to stop the leaks and to keep it reliable.

    Originally posted by doofus View Post
    I believe Lisle makes a single spring compressor. i put small vacuum hose down cyl. once spring is compressed it is tapped down the stem freeing the valve keepers, these are usually stuck to the valve stem on hi mileage engines. i free them with a pocket screwdriver and a magnet retrieves them. now pull off spring and retainer,old seal and install new seal. slip spring and retainer back down valve all the way to bottom. a little grease on keepers and stick to valve stem then pull spring and retainer up and capture keepers. while holding spring up release spring compressor and un hook from spring. 1 down, Good Luck, Doofus
    Originally posted by doofus View Post
    The Lisle spring compressor part no. is 16550 at $32.95 very useful. Luck Doofus

    Thanks guys for all the help! Do you have a link to the other thread about the Ford Umbrella seals so I can read up on it? (I'll search it anyway....)

    Leave a comment:


  • doofus
    replied
    The Lisle spring compressor part no. is 16550 at $32.95 very useful. Luck Doofus

    Leave a comment:


  • Chicken Hawk
    replied
    Originally posted by sochocki View Post
    A friend of mine has a 56 President with 38000 actual miles (two owner car). 289 V8. Runs pretty well, but smokes a lot at start up. A mechanic told him it was probably the valve guide seals. Has been advised against oil additives, but he is on a limited budget and trying to avoid having these replaced. Any ideas, or alternatives to expensive engine work?? Thanks!
    If you are going to the South Bend swap meet this weekend, stop by my space and I'll give you a set of seals. Just tell me you are the guy from New Castle.

    Ted

    Leave a comment:


  • doofus
    replied
    I believe Lisle makes a single spring compressor. i put small vacuum hose down cyl. once spring is compressed it is tapped down the stem freeing the valve keepers, these are usually stuck to the valve stem on hi mileage engines. i free them with a pocket screwdriver and a magnet retrieves them. now pull off spring and retainer,old seal and install new seal. slip spring and retainer back down valve all the way to bottom. a little grease on keepers and stick to valve stem then pull spring and retainer up and capture keepers. while holding spring up release spring compressor and un hook from spring. 1 down, Good Luck, Doofus

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    I do not fool around jamming rope in the cylinders and maybe getting it stuck or losing some in there.
    All you have to do is put the Piston in the Cyl. you are working on at TDC, there is no way you could lose a Valve that way.

    Also I have used my spark plug fitting 14mm air chuck adapter to pressurize each cylinder as I use my "Y" Block Ford 292/312 type Lisle Valve Spring Compressor that is just a lever that hooks under the Rocker Shaft, to compress the spring and disassemble the Spring, Keepers and Retainer.

    Even though I know I could remove the Rockers and 4 Head bolts and re-torque the head bolts without any leaks or problems, this method does not require that.
    Last edited by StudeRich; 05-02-2016, 05:21 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • dpson
    replied
    Do a search on forum about the valve seals, there is a fairly modern Ford valve seal (I forget the application) that fits and works better than the Studebaker umbrella seals (subject to debate). I did this to a 1962 V8 and it cured the blue smoke problem. The old umbrella seals were hard as a rock and were no longer doing their job. As I recall I used compressed air to keep the valves from sliding down into the cylinders when the seals were replaced, there are other methods, rope etc. but compressed air worked best for me.

    Leave a comment:


  • JoeHall
    replied
    Has the idea of adjusting the valves ever crossed your mind? I cannot believe none of the above responses mentioned it. If its been over 10,000 miles, its time to adjust them. If you do not know when it was last done, its time to adjust them. Might wanna have some new rocker covers on hand first, before pulling the rockers. If not, you could make your own, in a pinch. Just go to FLAPS and but some cork gasket material, the thicker the better, up to about 3/16".

    Leave a comment:


  • Studebakercenteroforegon
    replied
    Whatever makes you comfortable but you will not blow a head gasket.

    Leave a comment:


  • BILT4ME
    replied
    We're getting ready for a 3000 mile trip and don't have time for machining, so we're fixing the oil leaks and freeze plugs. It doesn't burn oil either under heavy throttle or under backing off the gas (typical valve seals), so I can probably get by OK without doing it. I just figured I would because I was there. I do see there is some buildup on the valve stems which DOES indicate some leaking, it's not enough to be a problem at this time.

    I would rather let it burn oil than to risk blowing a head gasket on the trip.

    Leave a comment:


  • Guest's Avatar
    Guest replied
    Some info.

    http://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced...n%20Motor.html

    A video and a neat tool: https://youtu.be/zFmC66YU6zI

    I know it's a Honda but a very easy process and informative video.

    The Lisle 3605 or 36200 kit will do the same type of job. I had never before seen it done this way but will do this in future unless someone has a bad experience on Studebaker heads.

    A note: the Lisle tools listed one, the 36050 has two tools and has a case and the other is only the larger tool does not, as far as I know. Also the larger of the two in the kit works on valves with stem diameters of 5/16" to 3/8". So our 11/32" is in there. The smaller tool works on valves with stem of 4.5mm to 7.5mm.

    Len
    Last edited by Skybolt; 05-02-2016, 09:41 AM.

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