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  • Engine: Valve guide seals

    A friend of mine has a 56 President with 38000 actual miles (two owner car). 289 V8. Runs pretty well, but smokes a lot at start up. A mechanic told him it was probably the valve guide seals. Has been advised against oil additives, but he is on a limited budget and trying to avoid having these replaced. Any ideas, or alternatives to expensive engine work?? Thanks!
    Last edited by sochocki; 09-14-2015, 01:11 PM.

  • #2
    Not going to stop the oil leaking down the guides with out replacing the seals. Can be done with the heads on the engine. Stop by and I will show you how.

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    • #3
      It is not difficult and should not be ultra expensive to have done, but could be done by a Mechanically inclined "Friend".
      The Valve Seals are not expensive and the only thing that needs to be "opened up" is the Valve Covers.

      A Valve spring compressor is used to do this with the Heads on the Engine.

      Parts list:
      (16) 536264 Valve Stem Seal ..... $16.00
      (2) 536555 Valve Cover Gasket ...$24.00
      (8) 530858 Valve Cover Grommet..$8.00
      .............................................__________
      ............................................. $ 48.00 Plus 2-3 Hrs. Labor for a really SLOW Mechanic??? @ ???
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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      • #4
        Thanks DieselJim and StudeRich! Sounds reasonable!

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        • #5
          Do NOT let someone talk you into removing the heads to replace valve stem seals.
          There are several methods to facilitate this job - air pressure, cord, curved tool - with the heads on.
          Gary L.
          Wappinger, NY

          SDC member since 1968
          Studebaker enthusiast much longer

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          • #6
            Originally posted by studegary View Post
            Do NOT let someone talk you into removing the heads to replace valve stem seals.
            There are several methods to facilitate this job - air pressure, cord, curved tool - with the heads on.
            That's what I've heard! Good Advise. Thanks!!

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            • #7
              Good Morning StudeRich!

              I pulled the valve covers on my 259 last night and was planning on changing the valve seals on it. I figured there was a way to do it without removing the heads, but when I saw the valve train is attached using the head bolts, how do I do it? Do I back off the push rods, then slide the rocker arm sideways and block it in place, put air pressure to the cylinder, then change the seals, slide the rockers back over and adjust the valve? If you can advise or point me in the right place, it would be appreciated.

              I'm going to PM you about a different issue.

              Mark



              Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
              It is not difficult and should not be ultra expensive to have done, but could be done by a Mechanically inclined "Friend".
              The Valve Seals are not expensive and the only thing that needs to be "opened up" is the Valve Covers.

              A Valve spring compressor is used to do this with the Heads on the Engine.

              Parts list:
              (16) 536264 Valve Stem Seal ..... $16.00
              (2) 536555 Valve Cover Gasket ...$24.00
              (8) 530858 Valve Cover Grommet..$8.00
              .............................................__________
              ............................................. $ 48.00 Plus 2-3 Hrs. Labor for a really SLOW Mechanic??? @ ???
              Dis-Use on a Car is Worse Than Mis-Use...
              1959 Studebaker Lark VIII 2DHTP

              Comment


              • #8
                Its OK To remove the 4 head bolts and remove the whole rocker arm assembly. Be sure to retorque them afterwards. Do you have a shop manual?

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                • #9
                  Just pull the bolts holding the rocker assemblies and remove them. If you remove the push rods, keep them in the right order to put them back where they came from. I use a length of fairly thick nylon rope fished through the spark plug holes to keep the vales in place then a spring compressor to remove the keepers--with a strong magnet. Don't want to loose them into the engine. Do one valve at a time-take your time, put the retainer and keepers back in before moving to the next one. When both intake and exhaust are done on one cylinder, remove the rope slowly. Stick it in the next cylinder jamming the valves and repeat. Good luck.!!!!
                  Oh and it takes me a lot longer than 2-3 hours don't rush-it's done when it's done, and it will stop the oil puff when starting up the car.

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                  • #10
                    Since we've been putting positive seals on our rebuilds, I may have a set of the umbrella seals your friend can have for the cost of postage. But only if he promises to buy a Shop Manual; it's an absolute necessity anything beyond wash'n-wax.

                    jack vines
                    PackardV8

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                    • #11
                      I have the Shop manual (as well as a Motor manual to do the job on all.)

                      Are the bolts that hold the rocker assembly actual HEAD bolts? If not, I'm OK with it. As far as I could read in the Shop manual, they appear to be HEAD bolts. I could not find any other reference otherwise.

                      If they are, I cannot imagine pulling a head bolt on an engine that has been in operation for 35+ years, then reinstalling and planning on NOT having a head gasket failure. Let alone, pulling head bolts out of sequence and retorqueing that way.

                      I have the gasket kit from SI, (I have not opened it yet) and I'm not sure what seals are actually in there.
                      Dis-Use on a Car is Worse Than Mis-Use...
                      1959 Studebaker Lark VIII 2DHTP

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                      • #12
                        When removing the push rods - give them a little sideways shake to keep the lifter from sticking to it. Once in a while, if you just give a pull to the push rod, a lifter may come with it and get pulled out of its bore. No big deal, but then you have to remove the intake manifold and lifter cover to put it back in place.

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                        • #13
                          Do not be alarmed about removing the 4 head bolts. First of all, a Studebaker V-8 has more head bolts than the average V-8. You will see a pattern of 5 head bolts around each cylinder rather than 4. Secondly, I myself and many others have replaced valve seals on Studebaker V-8 engines with only positive results - never any head gasket problem.

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                          • #14
                            Some info.

                            http://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced...n%20Motor.html

                            A video and a neat tool: https://youtu.be/zFmC66YU6zI

                            I know it's a Honda but a very easy process and informative video.

                            The Lisle 3605 or 36200 kit will do the same type of job. I had never before seen it done this way but will do this in future unless someone has a bad experience on Studebaker heads.

                            A note: the Lisle tools listed one, the 36050 has two tools and has a case and the other is only the larger tool does not, as far as I know. Also the larger of the two in the kit works on valves with stem diameters of 5/16" to 3/8". So our 11/32" is in there. The smaller tool works on valves with stem of 4.5mm to 7.5mm.

                            Len
                            Last edited by Skybolt; 05-02-2016, 09:41 AM.

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                            • #15
                              We're getting ready for a 3000 mile trip and don't have time for machining, so we're fixing the oil leaks and freeze plugs. It doesn't burn oil either under heavy throttle or under backing off the gas (typical valve seals), so I can probably get by OK without doing it. I just figured I would because I was there. I do see there is some buildup on the valve stems which DOES indicate some leaking, it's not enough to be a problem at this time.

                              I would rather let it burn oil than to risk blowing a head gasket on the trip.
                              Dis-Use on a Car is Worse Than Mis-Use...
                              1959 Studebaker Lark VIII 2DHTP

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