Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Head gasket (what cement to use & where to use on gasket ??)

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • jnormanh
    replied
    Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK View Post
    RTV Silicone gasket maker.....
    Buy it.
    Use it.
    Love it.








    That looks REALLY bad....but....did it blow out?

    Leave a comment:


  • Stevenlesser
    replied
    Copper coat spray stays gooey till engine heat sets it so gives you time to get everything lined up as hea head goes on it'll like cooking a fried egg in a Teflon pan that way I love copper spray ! Getting out the copper spray It also means your changing an engine head ,which means you are having Fun too

    Leave a comment:


  • Ron Dame
    replied
    And now back on, I used both Copper Cote and I've used aluminum paint, no problems with either.
    Originally posted by Ron Dame View Post
    Thanks for bringing it back on topic. Now I will take it right back off. I wonder how that thing Jeff posted cooled?

    Leave a comment:


  • Ron Dame
    replied
    Thanks for bringing it back on topic. Now I will take it right back off. I wonder how that thing Jeff posted cooled?
    Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View Post
    To answer the OP question, I use Copper Spray in both sides of the gaskets...

    Leave a comment:


  • 345 DeSoto
    replied
    To answer the OP question, I use Copper Spray in both sides of the gaskets...

    Leave a comment:


  • TWChamp
    replied
    Love it........that's another good picture for my "hall of shame" mechanics pictures.

    In the 80's I worked at a dealership with another guy that called himself a mechanic. He put together a straight 8 Buick engine without marking any of the rod caps, and needless to say, the engine was locked tight. In the 60's I bought a Chevy 265 engine and overdrive from a Ford "mechanic" at the local Ford dealership. It was supposed to be rebuilt, but I took it apart to check, and found all 8 pistons were in the wrong holes from what they were marked, and 5 of the pistons were facing backwards.

    Leave a comment:


  • StudeRich
    replied
    Yeah, on a Very High Compression Detroit Diesel, THAT should work!

    When I bought my '62 Transtar 1 Ton with a 289, I found some idiot had used the "Magic" Blue Silicone on the EXHAUST Manifold Gaskets!

    Leave a comment:


  • lark55
    replied
    The RTV pictures reminded me of an incident many years ago. We had a guy who said he was a mechanic at the transit mix company I worked at. The boss told him to put the motor back together on an old road grader. The motor was an old three cylinder Detroit Diesel and this guy was going around asking us where he could find cardboard to make a head gasket. Shortly after that he became a truck driver.

    Leave a comment:


  • DEEPNHOCK
    replied
    Originally posted by 345 DeSoto View Post
    WHO, in their right mind, would do something like that?!

    Well, it is an election year, you know.
    Everyone has lost their minds...

    Leave a comment:


  • DEEPNHOCK
    replied
    Yeah.. Someplace on the Internet... I won't claim any credit for that

    Originally posted by Dan Timberlake View Post
    Hi Jeff,

    Did you find those high temp red RTV pix on Facebook ?

    regards,

    Dan T

    Leave a comment:


  • 345 DeSoto
    replied
    WHO, in their right mind, would do something like that?!

    Leave a comment:


  • Dan Timberlake
    replied
    Hi Jeff,

    Did you find those high temp red RTV pix on Facebook ?

    regards,

    Dan T

    Leave a comment:


  • doofus
    replied
    Hey jeff, i used to work with that guy!! Doofus

    Leave a comment:


  • DEEPNHOCK
    replied
    RTV Silicone gasket maker.....
    Buy it.
    Use it.
    Love it.







    Leave a comment:


  • Leon-Stevens
    replied
    Thanks for all Head & Rod help

    I did manage to find the new pal spring steel lock nuts thru a NAPA store.(as suggested)
    The head gasket is not just metal it is a composition gasket.
    I put it together with no sealer ..local race engine rebuild shop convinced me.
    Wire brushed the head bolt threads (brush on bench grinder).
    Used 10-40 synthetic oil on bolts (as suggested) and torqued them in three stages:
    30 pounds, 45 pounds & 60 pounds .

    Used a lysle ridge remover
    Used a 240 grit flex hone (with their hone oil)
    Used Hastings cast iron rings with steel oil rings on both sides of tensioner
    The cylinder ridge was 3.25 th on each side of cylinder (more than the 2.5 max) but did not bore
    Shall let you know results in about a month +/- .
    At engine removal was getting about 65miles/quart with 30weight oil
    I did open the oil return hole in the heads, from 5/16 to 23/64 (as per one of the other threads)
    Put posilock valve stem seals with the little spring around neoprene (as per one of the threads)
    Had to swege the outside metal jacket of the seals down .030 inch in diamether on the left head (it was smaller than right)

    Replaced the felt front seal with a national neoprene seal as shown by one of the
    shops (pointed to by one of the threads) ... My seal was a bit loose in the aluminum
    front housing, so I used a 1/8 high .017 inch thick alumimun shim around the outside of
    the seal before pressing it into the red RTV. Also used a lathe to turn 3/32 off the open edge
    of the seal to make it shorter. It all went together well (will it leak?... to be seen)
    Also put new neoprene seal in rear main of crank.

    THANKS AGAIN
    TO ALL RESPONDERS IN THIS THREAD
    AND OTHER THREADS
    FOR THEIR HELP !!!!!
    Leon Stevens

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X