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Head gasket (what cement to use & where to use on gasket ??)

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  • Engine: Head gasket (what cement to use & where to use on gasket ??)

    Am about to put the heads back on 64 hawk 289 , my manual says to use some kind of cement on head gasket.
    I don't remember puting anything on head gaskets (60 years ago rebuildiing fords), my memory is not very good though.
    Also do you also use sealer on the head bolts that go into the water?.. I remember doing that in the 50's.
    Any help would be greatly apperciated.
    Also it recomends new lock nut things on the rodbolt nuts.... can I reuse the old ones .... don't know where to get new ones.
    Believe it is a Felpro gasket (came in a 190 dollar kit) looks sorta like 1/16 " black graphite stuff , with metal around cylinders.
    Leon

  • #2
    I've always used the spray variety of copper head gasket sealer. Never had a head gasket fail.
    sals54

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    • #3
      I also like to spray both sides of head gaskets with Copper-Coat, even if the gasket says "use no sealer".

      Comment


      • #4
        Yup, thats the ticket.
        sals54

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        • #5
          I'd consider eliminating the sheet metal lock nuts (one flavor of pal nuts?) . Careful deburring of the rod and cap, a smooth face for the smooth faced main nut, and good torquing are FAR more effective at keeping things tight, and even more important, the bolt properly tensioned.

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          • #6
            SI has the PAL nuts. Whatever you do don't reuse the old ones.
            _______________
            http://stude.vonadatech.com
            https://jeepster.vonadatech.com

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            • #7
              I've been using Copper Coat spray gasket sealer for years on Studebaker head gaskets and I'm happy with the results. I buy new pal nuts for the rod bolts at my local NAPA dealer. Studebaker V8 engines do not need sealer on any of the head bolts as none of them go into the cooling system. I put a drop or 2 of engine oil on the head bolt threads before I install them and the same with the rod bolts. Bud

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              • #8
                On most of the engines I built many years ago, I would spray a heavy coat of silver/aluminum paint on both sides of the head gasket.

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                • #9
                  To put what many have said together and add one thing...

                  1. With composition gaskets, no sealer is needed, but something like "Copper Coat" will work well. With the sheet metal gasket, yes, something like Copper Coat is required.

                  2. The head bolts (cap screws) do not go into water, so no sealer is required. BUT...cleaning both the bolt threads AND the threads in the block is a VERY good idea.
                  Then a drop or two of engine oil on BOTH the threads and "under the bolt head" is a VERY good idea. There's a lot of friction at the underside of the head of the bolt to the cylinder head surface.

                  3. The PAL nuts are not required at all. Just a proper torquing the rod nuts is more than sufficient. The rod nut/bolt should also have a drop or two of engine oil before assembling. Those sheet metal nuts didn't really do much for holding the rod nuts in place. Few companies used them back in the day and no manufacturers use them now. They are light enough to not effect the crank balance when leaving all them off.
                  Kinda like the left hand "lug nut" threads on one side of the car...not required..!
                  Yea, and do not reuse the original ones.

                  Mike

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                  • #10
                    Thanks for all Head & Rod help

                    I did manage to find the new pal spring steel lock nuts thru a NAPA store.(as suggested)
                    The head gasket is not just metal it is a composition gasket.
                    I put it together with no sealer ..local race engine rebuild shop convinced me.
                    Wire brushed the head bolt threads (brush on bench grinder).
                    Used 10-40 synthetic oil on bolts (as suggested) and torqued them in three stages:
                    30 pounds, 45 pounds & 60 pounds .

                    Used a lysle ridge remover
                    Used a 240 grit flex hone (with their hone oil)
                    Used Hastings cast iron rings with steel oil rings on both sides of tensioner
                    The cylinder ridge was 3.25 th on each side of cylinder (more than the 2.5 max) but did not bore
                    Shall let you know results in about a month +/- .
                    At engine removal was getting about 65miles/quart with 30weight oil
                    I did open the oil return hole in the heads, from 5/16 to 23/64 (as per one of the other threads)
                    Put posilock valve stem seals with the little spring around neoprene (as per one of the threads)
                    Had to swege the outside metal jacket of the seals down .030 inch in diamether on the left head (it was smaller than right)

                    Replaced the felt front seal with a national neoprene seal as shown by one of the
                    shops (pointed to by one of the threads) ... My seal was a bit loose in the aluminum
                    front housing, so I used a 1/8 high .017 inch thick alumimun shim around the outside of
                    the seal before pressing it into the red RTV. Also used a lathe to turn 3/32 off the open edge
                    of the seal to make it shorter. It all went together well (will it leak?... to be seen)
                    Also put new neoprene seal in rear main of crank.

                    THANKS AGAIN
                    TO ALL RESPONDERS IN THIS THREAD
                    AND OTHER THREADS
                    FOR THEIR HELP !!!!!
                    Leon Stevens

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      RTV Silicone gasket maker.....
                      Buy it.
                      Use it.
                      Love it.







                      HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                      Jeff


                      Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                      Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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                      • #12
                        Hey jeff, i used to work with that guy!! Doofus

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                        • #13
                          Hi Jeff,

                          Did you find those high temp red RTV pix on Facebook ?

                          regards,

                          Dan T

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            WHO, in their right mind, would do something like that?!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Yeah.. Someplace on the Internet... I won't claim any credit for that

                              Originally posted by Dan Timberlake View Post
                              Hi Jeff,

                              Did you find those high temp red RTV pix on Facebook ?

                              regards,

                              Dan T
                              HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

                              Jeff


                              Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



                              Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

                              Comment

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