Fuel System: Spectra or Airtex Fuel Pump for 1950 Champion?

[TWChamp]

I'm thinking of giving the mechanical fuel pump another try. I've heard good and bad about the Airtex brand, but haven't heard anything about Spectra. I don't like to be throwing away $50 for one that doesn't last more than a few months. Autozone can order either brand for about $48.
I'm wondering what brand is the best for a single diaphragm 1950 Champion? Thanks, Tom

[14x7]

How about the speedway speed shop catalog , they have 6 volt pumps , positive ground ,and negative ground, But you may have to use some angle iron fashion to attach to the floor of the car. Just a thought . good luck . Speedway motors , ask for the 2015 " street catalog 800 979 0122

[StudeRich]

Never heard of a "Spectra", it most likely is a re-labeled Airtex, like others: "Master" and "Carter" (NOT a real Carter ).

There have not been very many problems with Airtex for Champions, just the '55-'64 V8's had Oil Leakage and seems to now be fixed by sealing the Actuator Lever PIN on current issue units.

No thanks, on Rat-A Tat, Tat, Tat Electric Pumps.

[jclary]

I'm probably the least qualified to address this if you are looking for a mechanic with formal training on these pumps. However, after years of experience using, rebuilding, and replacing them, I have some thoughts on the matter. The mechanical diaphragm fuel pump is an efficient, proven, yet relatively simple low pressure high volume fuel pump. They work great for our conventional carburetors that are vented to air, and meter fuel flow from a reservoir using a needle valve actuated by a float. The main job of the fuel pump is to supply enough fuel to the reservoir.

No self respecting manufacturer, re-manufacturer, or kit supplier, would intentionally supply inferior parts and expect to stay in business. It has been my experience, that the weakest link in mechanical "replacement" pumps is the pivot pin for the actuator arm. I can't speak for other brands of engines, but Studebaker designed theirs so that oil returns (and lubricates) right over the point at which the arm is operated by a cam lobe. In this process, huge amounts of hot (thus thin) oil is being splattered about in this area. Fuel pumps that are re-manufactured with the pivot pin "un sealed" and protruding out both sides of the housing, will leak oil that gets blown all over the engine compartment. Those are the ones that drive me nuts.

It took me years to figure this out, and learn a few tricks to stop that leak. I've been told that some have problems with the flexible components and gaskets failing with modern fuel. If this is so, then I'd look for pumps/kits that have assurance that they are compatible with ethanol.

Now that I've posted on this topic...probably all my mechanical fuel pumps will fail...this afternoon!

[StudeRich]

John, I agree with almost all of what you are saying, but my Post #3 is kind of an update on the Current situation with these Mechanical pumps, being that I buy and sell quantities of them.

The part about "Rebuilt" Fuel pumps I don't agree with, because I have not seen or known of an available REBUILT one for 30 Years!

[TWChamp]

How about the speedway speed shop catalog , they have 6 volt pumps , positive ground ,and negative ground, But you may have to use some angle iron fashion to attach to the floor of the car. Just a thought . good luck . Speedway motors , ask for the 2015 " street catalog 800 979 0122

I already have a very neatly mounted Holley 12 volt with a 3 ohm 50 watt resistor to drop the voltage to 3 volts on my 6 volt Champion. This way it puts out the perfect flow and pressure. I just like to stay as original as possible, so if I find a good reliable pump that stands up to ethanol crap gas, and doesn't leak oil, I'd like to give it a try. I tried a couple mechanical pumps last summer, but the crap gas I got stuck with in Michigan took out the diaphragm in two days, and both pumps also leaked oil. So now I don't want to throw away any more money until I hear of a good pump.

[jclary]

The part about "Rebuilt" Fuel pumps I don't agree with, because I have not seen or known of an available REBUILT one for 30 Years!

You are probably right. As we get older, it is easy to lose perspective of time as it relates to industries you were familiar with during "working" days. It was probably over a decade ago that a major component re-builder (former air tool customer of mine) shut down and moved operations out of the country. At that time, they rebuilt water pumps, alternators, and fuel pumps. My '55 Truck has its original water pump housing that they rebuilt for me in the early 1980's.

Given today's cars and the market, it makes me wonder how long we'll even be able to buy any mechanical fuel pump.

[Corvanti]

I'm certainly not an "expert" as Rich and John are. but here's my 2 cents: it appears that S.I. has the fuel pump for $59. part# 681107. i have no idea if Airtex makes them or has been fitted with a diaphragm that can handle "crap gas".

my main thought though was, if you go back to a mechanical pump, leave the electric pump in the line and place a on/off switch under the dash. that would help when she hasn't been run in awhile plus if you ever get a vapor lock problem...

[earthtechy]

my main thought though was, if you go back to a mechanical pump, leave the electric pump in the line and place a on/off switch under the dash. that would help when she hasn't been run in awhile plus if you ever get a vapor lock problem...[/QUOTE]

I'm not so sure that this is smart either - when the ETHANOL eats thru the elastomers and the mechanical pump leaks like a sieve like mine does after a winter hibernation it won't do any good having the electric pump. The key is make sure you use non-ethanol gas or have the elastomers rated for ethanol use.

[jclary]

my main thought though was, if you go back to a mechanical pump, leave the electric pump in the line and place a on/off switch under the dash. that would help when she hasn't been run in awhile plus if you ever get a vapor lock problem...

I'm not so sure that this is smart either - when the ETHANOL eats thru the elastomers and the mechanical pump leaks like a sieve like mine does after a winter hibernation it won't do any good having the electric pump. The key is make sure you use non-ethanol gas or have the elastomers rated for ethanol use.[/QUOTE]

This is a resurrection of a four-year-old conversation...either electric or mechanical...ethanol polluted fuels have now been the norm for so long that fuel pumps that can't handle the ethanol are probably too old to safely be used just because of nature of degradation of elastomers over time. Unless stored in a very well controlled environment, atmospheric ozone alone will degrade the flexible components.

[kxet]

Add in Oldcars magazine will rebuild "any fuel pump with screws" never tried them. My 49 Champion had a pin hole in flex line running to pump from metal fuel line, didn't drip gas unless pressurized but sucked air. Acted like bad pump going up hills and staying above 40. new line fixed it after getting new pump local store had in stock.