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  • Fuel System: Fuel delivery issue

    I have a 1959 Studebaker lark with the 259 v8 which just recently stalled. after replacing the fuel pump, I can't even get gas to show up in the glass bulb, let alone reach the carburetor. I realize the fuel pump is not electric, and I'm wondering if rebuilding the carb should fix this issue. any advice would be much appreciated

  • #2
    Make sure the outlet of the fuel pump goes to the carb, and the inlet to the tank. It may seem obvious, but they are sometimes overlooked and hooked up backwards.
    Bez Auto Alchemy
    573-318-8948
    http://bezautoalchemy.com


    "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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    • #3
      Also check for a pin hole between the tank and the fuel pump.

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      • #4
        No fuel in glass bowl equal no flow. Try putting an inlet hose made from fuel injection hose, directly into a can of fuel direct, bypassing everything, and I mean everything, but the pump inlet, Then you will either find the pump's no good or the pump isn't getting fuel from the tank. I know it sounds too basic, but that's the only way to start.

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        • #5
          Are you sure you installed the pump actuator rod correctly "under" the pump cam lobe when you bolted it in? Depending upon the angle of approach, and the position of the cam, it is possible to install it incorrectly. If it went in too easy, it may be out of position.
          John Clary
          Greer, SC

          SDC member since 1975

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          • #6
            My 1950 Champion had had fuel pumping problems for the past year since I bought it. I found the gas tank fuel line was blocked by tank liner coming off. The tank liner was installed 21 years ago when the car was restored by a previous owner. I have the tank off and am stripping out the rest of the liner.

            I would remove the gas cap and use compressed air to blow back from the fuel pump end into the tank to make sure the line is clear.

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            • #7
              I agree with the test 88 is offering just an additional comment I prefer to use solvent for the test and the product coming out the outlet should squirt at least 6 feet. Also, to test your fuel line for pin holes I have a strictly back yard method by attaching a long rubber hose to the fuel line and blow into it while on your back under the vehicle and spray soapy water over the fuel line with particular attention to each clasp and look for tell-tale bubbles. I experienced the same problem after three different fuel pumps, only to find fuel line was toast with multiple pin holes.

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              • #8
                We just replaced the fuel pump on our 59 Lark as well. We changed it because the FP was leaking oil out the hole next to the pivot.

                The new FP was installed and after significant cranking, it wouldn't start. I blew in the tank while my son pulled the line to the fuel pump and it turns out that the fuel hose to the FP cracked during installation so we had to replace with new hose. Replaced the hose and blew into the tank to "prime" the pump. Poured some gas down the carb 2X and it started and ran.

                I don't like to use compressed air on the tank due to possible damage to the tank with over pressure, so i just blow into the tank with a 1/4" ID or larger hose through my fingers with my hand capping the tank.
                Dis-Use on a Car is Worse Than Mis-Use...
                1959 Studebaker Lark VIII 2DHTP

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by jclary View Post
                  Are you sure you installed the pump actuator rod correctly "under" the pump cam lobe when you bolted it in? Depending upon the angle of approach, and the position of the cam, it is possible to install it incorrectly. If it went in too easy, it may be out of position.
                  This may be my issue. I will retry and report back. I had just driven the car 150 mile prior to this issue and have seen no gas leak from any lines so I'm sure I just "missed my mark" when installing the new one

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by shauncoyne View Post
                    This may be my issue. I will retry and report back. I had just driven the car 150 mile prior to this issue and have seen no gas leak from any lines so I'm sure I just "missed my mark" when installing the new one
                    I believe you are correct. I've discovered that one needs to lift up on the pump once the actuation lever is in to be sure it's under the cam lobe. Then you can work the bolts into their threaded holes. Be sure not to draw one bolt completely tight before drawing up the other. First set them in finger tight, Then tighten them up in sequence so as not to crack the pumps flange. A small amount of gasket shellac will help keep the gasket from shifting around during installation. Enjoy your Studebaker!

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                    • #11
                      The factory manual lists specifications for fuel flow and pressure . 2 slightly different tests after disconnecting the line at the carb. Requires a <$20 multi-purpose gage,
                      (like this one, but of higher quality if you can swing it. http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-pu...ter-93547.html) and a cup or sawed off oil bottle. I prefer an old Pyrex measuring cup, for calibrated volume measurements, and an important visual check of the gasoline cleanliness and quality being fed to the engine.
                      If a car passes both/all tests I move on.

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