Get more Tips, Specs and Technical Data!

Did you know... this Forum is a service of the Studebaker Drivers Club? For more technical tips, specifications, history and tech data, visit the Tech Tips page at the SDC Homepage:
See more
See less

hot radiator fix?

  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Cool/Heat: hot radiator fix?

    My 64 Daytona, 259 automatic has been home with me for a couple weeks now. I have had two major annoyances left that need to be worked out. First some quick background if you missed earlier posts. I'm a Studebaker Rookie, This car has not been on the road for 20 or more years. The engine runs so well I can't believe it, rides and drives GREAT! However the radiator runs hot. It clearly has rust in it and you cans see some of the baffles are clogged with stuff. I have flushed it SEVERAL times and each time it gets a little clearer. Of course I know that the best thing would be to get a new radiator, or get it re-cored etc. I've spent a fairly heavy amount of money on this car in the last two months and my budget is pretty much exhausted at this brakes, new tires, new gas tank, new lines etc. I am having an auxiliary electronic fuel pump installed as it gets vapor lock all the time that's my $$$ for this month. question is what can be done besides a new radiator? any cheaper ideas?? The flushing has being helping some, it doesn't boil over when it runs on the road, just runs eventually almost all the way to hot. I have not taken the radiator out yet to turn it upside down and flush it that way. That is my task in the next couple days. Any good radiator flush products anyone has used? Would a professional cleaning work? Or am I doomed to buy a $450.00 radiator from Studebaker International? Sorry for the wordiness of this post...

  • #2
    Take to your local radiator shop and have them rod it out
    and the can also check the general condition of it.


    • #3
      A true radiator specialist is able to open it and get the crud out of it. This works fine and costs far less money but if your radiator has weak points, this will reveal them. If your radiator is clogged, the cylinder block is certainly clogged too and you'll have to remove the engine core plugs to clean it thoroughly.
      Do it for good the first time and you'll never regret it.
      Best of luck.


      • #4
        for the summer, you could try straight water with a water pump additive, but likely no real help. Check the temp with a meat thermometer for a true temp reading. There's no easy way around cleaning the block and re-coring the radiator.... That's if you want to drive it regularly in good (warm/hot) weather...1st thing for next year


        • #5
          No mention has been made of the need to thoroughly clean the engine BLOCK. The core plugs on each side of the block probably need to be pried out, and the two drain plugs at the back of the block (lower rear of the block; both sides) need to be removed as well.

          Thoroughly flush the engine block through all those open holes, rooting around with probes to loosen and remove all the crud. It's a messy job, but likely necessary after all these years, especially with a car that's been off the road 20+ years, as you say.

          Meanwhile, if the radiator is not leaking, a good radiator shop should be able to professionally clean it....but don't depend on their work to cure overheating unless the block is flushed out as described above. BP
          We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge.

          Ayn Rand:
          "You can avoid reality, but you cannot avoid the consequences of avoiding reality."

          G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it.


          • #6
            Agree with Bob, cleaning radiator will only help if rust doesn't keep coming out of block, Not cleaning block could plug it again! Should also make sure air coming in front can not go around the radiator, and make sure you have a shroud behind the radiator to help fan pull the air.
            Randy Wilkin
            1946 M5 Streetrod
            Hillsboro,Ohio 45133


            • #7
              The EPA has dumbed down radiator flushes to the point you can drink the stuff. LOL
              I tried some, but found it a waste of money. You can buy a gallon of pure white vinegar for about $2 at the grocery store. I ran 2 1/2 gallons of it in my Model A for 30 days, and it cleaned out a lot of rust. It might damage your water pump seals, so I don't know that I'd run it in my Stude, but might remove my radiator and fill that with Vinegar and let it set.
              No doubt the best solution for a clean radiator is to have it rodded out.


              • #8
                One other thing make sure the radiator fins are clean and straight. If it has air conditioning make sure its fins are clean and straight.

                You can also get a coolant filter which connects thru the heater hose. As the coolant circulates thru the heater the filter will clog up. Expect to go thru several filters. It sounds like the lazy way (it is). It may be expensive. You can use it on all your cars. Once the system is clean. Then sell it to your car guy buddy.


                • #9
                  I have a 1930 Brand X (well, a Buick roadster, if you must know) with a near-$1000.00 recent custom radiator and engine block so full of a lifetime's worth of crud that nothing would clean it out satisfactorily. So, to keep the radiator from clogging, I installed a radiator hose filter just above the engine's coolant outlet. The filter unit consists of a transparent plastic cylinder, (sectioned into the radiator hose) containing two parabolic stainless steel screens, of which the main one (second in line) traps all debris that gets through the first, while the first is formed so as to prevent accumulated debris from dropping back into the engine after shutoff.
                  Although I don't remember the brand name of the filter, I can report that I found it via Google and ordered it through Amazon. Although it was a little pricey (about $50.00 delivered), I have been quite satisfied with mine, which I've had to remove and clean only once. My engine currently runs quite cool even on the hottest of days, and it's nice to be able to simply look at the filter to check on the condition, color intensity, and level of the coolant -- while being free from worry about clogging up that high-buck radiator.