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had wrong crankshaft 57 Golden Hawk engine rebuild

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  • Engine: had wrong crankshaft 57 Golden Hawk engine rebuild

    Hello together

    Well, I am in the middle of having my engine rebuilt. Things are going on well. But now we even found out, that it had a wrong crankshaft in it (suitable for 259") but not for 289".

    Now I luckily found another crankshaft, which seems to be right for the 57 Golden Hawk engine with 289".

    It has the number 537424 cast into it. Could somebody please verify, if that is the right one, that I need?


    I wonder who installed a wrong crankshaft long ago... You always learn something new


    Thank you for an answer and have a nice day.

    Ruedi, Switzerland
    sigpic

  • #2
    What about your pistons?

    http://www.studebakerparts.com/stude...s/forging.html

    289 1955-64 (3 5/8" Stroke)
    #537424 (Same # as Packard)
    HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

    Jeff


    Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



    Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

    Comment


    • #3
      Correct (Jeffs comment), pistons and crank shafts go together.
      You can't mix the 259 crank and pistons with the 289 crank OR pistons.

      I'd say...if the engine ran, all was well with the engine. You just had a 259 rather than a 289.

      Mike

      Comment


      • #4
        Hello together

        Thank you very much for your fast answers. So I assume that there were also 259 pistons in the engine. Why would anyone do that

        Anyway, I will have the 537424 crankshaft then reground and use it plus I will be using new pistons that I ordered from fairborn studebaker. I ordered the 289 hypereutectic (+.020") with the small dish.

        After that I could reckon that the car will have more power, I guess.

        All the years that I have been driving the car, I always wondered where the 275HP are. Maybe now I am finding the answers for this.

        Regards

        Rudy

        Here is a photo of how the old piston looked like:

        Click image for larger version

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        I will try to take a better photo of the old pistons

        Regards

        Rudy
        sigpic

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten View Post
          Correct (Jeffs comment), pistons and crank shafts go together. You can't mix the 259 crank and pistons with the 289 crank OR pistons. I'd say...if the engine ran, all was well with the engine. You just had a 259 rather than a 289. Mike
          PackardV8

          Comment


          • #6
            Could it also be possible that somebody just changed the crankshaft, removed the 289 crankshaft and put in a 259 crank? Because the innards, connecting rods etc. have the right numbers as they should have and the old pistons also seem to be 289" ones.

            So probably somebody just changed the crank, but don't know why.

            Best regards

            Ruedi
            sigpic

            Comment


            • #7
              Hi Jack

              My engine block serial number is PS-4051. This matches what is written on my Studebaker production order sheet and I am quite sure it is the original block.

              The compression ratio that my engine builder has measured was only about 5.2:1.

              The old pistons are dished. I would have to measure them, to verify that they are 1.591"-1.597".

              So exactly what you wrote must have happened. That they left the 289 dished pistons inside and swapped out the crank. Maybe because the old one broke and they couldn't find a proper replacement.

              Looking forward to get higher compression 7.5:1 as it should have. Must be another driving experience then

              Thank you all very much

              Rudy
              sigpic

              Comment


              • #8
                With the stock GH Supercharger (Truck) Heads, you should have about 8.0 to 8.25 to 1 compression using Shallow Dish Pistons.

                I would probably go for the Max using Thin, beaded steel Head Gaskets as it will still be less than an R2 with the Paxton and Flat Top Pistons.

                Wow, that thing must have had closer to 150-160 HP or less.
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner

                Comment


                • #9
                  Now that maybe we have some clarification on your situation, at what altitude will your engine be operating; Lake Maggiore or Juf?

                  If doing a complete rebuild and using premium fuel, I'd consider building to R2 specs; that is 9:1 compression, recurved distributor and the R1/R2 cam and valve springs. That would give a real 275 horsepower and still appear original externally.

                  jack vines
                  PackardV8

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Hello together,

                    Thank you for your info. I will be running the car mainly in flat areas (Swiss Central Plateau) around Zurich, Zug. So Lake Maggiore would be more likely rather than Juf

                    I always use premium gas (with at least 98 octane) which is available almost everywhere throughout Switzerland (we are lucky with that). But we also have some ethanol added to the gas nowadays.

                    @StudeRich, that's true. It surely felt as having only around 150 HP .

                    Regarding the thin, beaded steel cyl. head gasket: What would I have to consider if I would be using the thin gasket instead of the thick one?

                    It seems that in the kit I got from Fairborn Studebaker, that there is the thick gasket inside (that should get me also around 7.5:1 compression then or not?)

                    I think there is a lot of discussion whether to use the thin or the thick cylinder head gasket.

                    Next thing will be to have some oil cooling lines made, routed from the radiator to the now original HD GH flightomatic transmission (which has the connections for those). I hope I can find somebody in my area who could custom made these.

                    Now have an enjoyable weekend and thank you all for the tips. Can't wait to get the car back on the road.(maybe in September)

                    Regards from sunny Switzerland

                    Rudy
                    sigpic

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      http://www.studebakerparts.com/stude...s/forging.html

                      Robert Kapteyn

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Swiss-Goldenhawk View Post
                        Hello together

                        Thank you very much for your fast answers. So I assume that there were also 259 pistons in the engine. Why would anyone do that

                        Anyway, I will have the 537424 crankshaft then reground and use it plus I will be using new pistons that I ordered from fairborn studebaker. I ordered the 289 hypereutectic (+.020") with the small dish.

                        After that I could reckon that the car will have more power, I guess.

                        All the years that I have been driving the car, I always wondered where the 275HP are. Maybe now I am finding the answers for this.

                        Regards

                        Rudy

                        Here is a photo of how the old piston looked like:

                        [ATTACH=CONFIG]44670[/ATTACH]

                        I will try to take a better photo of the old pistons

                        Regards

                        Rudy
                        Looks like you had 289 pistons, with a 259 crank, which dropped the CR to the 5.2: 1 you mentioned. I bet it was a real dog in performance, but ran nice and cool. In any case, even building back to spec, with 289 crank & pistons, you are gonna notice a major difference in power. I'd go with thin head gaskets (not the thick ones you bought) to get the CR back to stock, and not bother raising it. I'd also use an OEM cam, with OEM springs, and go with hardened exhaust valve seats in the heads. But that's just me. Anything hi-po, will only increase heat, make valve adjustments needed more often, and likely mandate premium gas; all, for only a few extra ponies.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          More heat with higher compression may not be true. This was discussed on the Model A website and the consensus was that with higher compression the engine becomes more efficient and should actually lower the coolant temperature slightly. Model A's come standard with 4.22 compression ratio and the common high compression head is 5.5 to 1.
                          I haven't tried my high compression head yet, but I think this does make sense.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by TWChamp View Post
                            More heat with higher compression may not be true. This was discussed on the Model A website and the consensus was that with higher compression the engine becomes more efficient and should actually lower the coolant temperature slightly. Model A's come standard with 4.22 compression ratio and the common high compression head is 5.5 to 1.
                            I haven't tried my high compression head yet, but I think this does make sense.
                            While Model A and Stude may have lots in common, comparing compression increases is apples and oranges. The closer to 10:1, the more the heat, and other related factors become issues. Even at 5.5, the Model A will probably still continue to run on just about anything above kerosene, and percolate along just fine. Much above 8.5 in a Stude and you are asking for trouble, especially with a supercharger. I know someone who went with the 289, shallow dish pistons in a 57GH; it raised the heat substantially, anything less than premium gas was no longer an option, and the power increase was barely discernible. If the OP plans to actually drive the car, and I think he does, he cannot go wrong with OEM specs in the rebuild. OTOH, trying to hop it up is likely to do more harm than good, for an honest to goodness driver.
                            Last edited by JoeHall; 06-13-2015, 06:11 AM.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Rudy,...Not to confuse the issue,.....but DEFINITELY use the 'thick' head gaskets in your engine.

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