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62 GT motor mounts

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  • Engine: 62 GT motor mounts

    When I first got my 62 GT I thought that it had a broken motor mount. But what it turned out to be was the rubber bushings just seem to be toooo soft and flexible. They just give too damn much and on hard take off the fan bangs into the shroud. Has anyone else run into this problem? Are stiffer bushings available to swap out or will have to replace all the motor mounts? Who would have the correct mounts?
    I'd rather be driving my Studebaker!


  • #2
    There are two different thicknesses of motor mounts available but I'm not aware of any different hardness levels. The mounts do break loose from the rubber with age and wear and that might be your problem or they may gotten soft from oil on them over time. Most Studebaker vendors will have the mounts available. Be sure to check the rear mounts also and order them at the same time if needed.



    • #3
      The vulcanizing on the left (driver) side motor mount has became separated. During hard acceleration, the left side of the motor lifts, causing the fan to clip the shroud.

      The two thicknesses are easily discernible, The thick one is around 1" thick, and the thin one is closer to 5/8". You can go with either, but the thicker one is correct for the GT, and results in less motor vibration transmission. Though it is likely only the left side that is broken, I'd replace both as a pair. Of course, use same thickness on both sides.


      • #4
        Readily available from many of our fine Studebaker vendors.
        "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

        Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
        Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
        sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"


        • #5
          Had similar problem. Got my replacements from Fairborn and installed them in about 15 minutes using a notched 4x4 and a floor jack.
          Made for much quieter cornering.
          sigpic 62 Hawk - Wisconsin barn find


          • #6
            Check your rear motor mount also. If it has sagged, and they do, it will change the angle of the engine.


            • #7
              Be aware that you do not know that the Left Front Engine Insulator is broken or not until you lift the immensely heavy Engine weight off of it to replace it.

              BTW the New un-oil soaked and un-crushed stock V8 Front Insulators measure just under 1 and 3/8" at 1 11/32".

              The "Short" Engine Mounts were only used by Studebaker on the 9, '64 Avantis with the optional R3 Engine and the Carb. Air box requiring more hood clearance.
              Last edited by StudeRich; 06-11-2015, 05:38 PM.
              Second Generation Stude Driver,
              Proud '54 Starliner Owner


              • #8
                You can easily spot a broken front motor mount without any assistance.

                -warm up the car so it idles smoothly and slowly
                -open the hood
                -get in the car
                -put left foot on the brake
                -put the transmission in drive
                -watch the engine carefully and constantly through the windshield and the opening at the back of the hood
                -and slowly/gradually increase accelerator pedal pressure.

                If the mount is broken, the left side of the engine will lift itself right up.

                You have to have a slow, steady right foot though. If you get too goosey with the accelerator pedal, you can quickly make the problem a lot worse.
                RadioRoy, specializing in AM/FM conversions with auxiliary inputs for iPod/satellite/CD player. In the old car radio business since 1985.

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