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  • Fuel System: Issues with acceleration after a half an hour of driving

    Looking for suggestions as to what might be causing my 51 Land Cruiser to have performance issues after being driven for about a half an hour. The car will drive well for about 30-40 minutes, but then will begin to sputter when accelerating. Gas pedal will go to the floor, but the car won't accelerate beyond about 50 mph and often feels like it is stuttering during acceleration. Things that we have already tried, but haven't fixed the problem: the carburetor has been completely rebuilt and has been checked, it is in working order. The fuel pump has been switched from mechanical to electric and the problem occurs in all types of weather, so I'm fairly certain this isn't vapor lock. The gas tank has been replaced, so I don't think there's a problem with sediment in the fuel or fuel line. The spark plugs have all been replaced, as has the ignition coil, and most of the ignition system. Our next thought was that perhaps the generator might be having problems and need to either be rebuilt or replaced? Has anyone got suggestions to offer as to what might be causing this problem? Our next step may be converting from the original 6 volt system to a 12 volt and simply replacing the generator with an alternator, but I'd like to get other opinions before taking that step. Btw-this is the wife of the person who has been trying to solve the problem, so if further details are needed in response to questions, my reply may take a bit as I'll have to ask the mechanic in the house and relay his reply. Thanks for what you can offer in the way of help.

  • #2
    One thing that I would try.....
    When it acts up.....
    Stop, open the hood, and put your hand on the coil body.
    If if is so hot you can't hold your hand there, your coil is probably bad.
    When coil windings start to break down, they usually short open when hot.
    Kind of a swag... But it's a free swag
    HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

    Jeff


    Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



    Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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    • #3
      Just verifying that the coil winding is in the alternator? Thanks.

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      • #4
        Oops...generator. I know the difference, it's just too early for me.

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        • #5
          No
          The coil winding is in the ignition coil.
          Replace the ignition coil and see if the problem goes away.
          Robert Kapteyn

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          • #6
            Jeff is referring to the ignition coil which you say has already been replaced so having a bad, but new one is probably a long shot.

            It sounds like a fuel problem to me.

            I'd check to make sure the automatic choke is adjusted so that it is fully opening as the engine warms.
            Have you replaced the fuel filter(s)?


            IMHO, the generator has nothing to do with the symptoms you are experiencing. It's replacement or conversion to 12V won't help this problem.
            Dick Steinkamp
            Bellingham, WA

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            • #7
              We replaced the gas tank, but not the fuel line itself. Would that be worth doing? I know that the fuel filter has been replaced at least once, but not sure if it was replaced after the gas tank was changed. I'll check. Will also pass along the suggestion about the automatic choke adjustment.

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              • #8
                This can't be related to the generator unless it seizes when hot, but in this case you should hear the belt slipping on the pulley and see that the generator is not turning. Start with what Jeff said, then check that the ignition coil gets full 6V all the time.. If the coil is not hot and get full current, my bet is on the condenser. Don't forget that new parts can be defective too.
                Best of luck.
                sigpic

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                • #9
                  There is no need to convert the ignition to 12 volt.
                  When Studebaker built the car , the car ran fine.
                  A customer of mine had the exact same problem.
                  He had replaced the coil with an after market 6 volt coil that was designed to be used with a resistor.(tractor use?).
                  The coil would overheat and quit , after running for awhile.
                  After cooling off it would run again for a short time.
                  Get the correct 6 Volt coil , not a Pep Boys or Autozone.
                  I may have a proper coil for you.
                  As an alternative buy a Mopar ignition coil resistor and try that.
                  You may have problems starting the car when it is cold but it will narrow it down.
                  Robert Kapteyn
                  http://www.studebakerstore.com/Stude...m/Welcome.html

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                  • #10
                    Has the rubber fuel line been replaced? They will swell shut or nearly shut reducing the amount of fuel to the carb. Is the original pump still in line? be sure the sediment bowl is sealed if it is still there ( if the electric pump is above the old pump it will suck air). It is also possible for the fuel line to rust internally and reduce fuel flow. My '51 commander had a crush in the fuel line by the frame that caused similar problems.
                    Rob

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                    • #11
                      Check your Gas Cap it should be a VENTED Cap, a test is when the condition occurs, remove the Cap if it releases Vacuum, or it fixes the problem a New Vented Cap is required.
                      StudeRich
                      Second Generation Stude Driver,
                      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                        Check your Gas Cap it should be a VENTED Cap, a test is when the condition occurs, remove the Cap if it releases Vacuum, or it fixes the problem a New Vented Cap is required.
                        With those symptoms that sounds like a good possibility. I first thought choke, but I doubt the engine would take 30 minutes for a sticking choke to become a problem.
                        "In the heart of Arkansas."
                        Searcy, Arkansas
                        1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
                        1952 2R pickup

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                        • #13
                          My '52 Commander suffers from the same symptom occasionally but it fixes itself after stabbing the throttle a few times. I wonder if maybe it could be a sticking power valve in the carb, if Strombergs have such an item. I'll have to check the book on that. Every carb has some sort of a high speed enrichment system. I have rebuilt the carb however and everything else ignition and fuel related has been replaced. It will also have a carb spit back from time to time when it won't accelerate.
                          Frank van Doorn
                          Omaha, Ne.
                          1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
                          1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
                          1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

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                          • #14
                            Update on this issue. After trying many different things, the carburetor was once again taken apart and a small, less than a pencil point, sized piece of mesh fabric was discovered. It would work it's way into position to foul one of the jets. Now that the interfering debris has been removed, the car is back to running great. Thanks for all the suggestions.

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                            • #15
                              If you found a small piece of mesh fabric in the carb I would check to see if your gas tank came with a sock on the gas line in the tank. It could be coming apart.

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