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Local Parts Availability

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  • Ignition: Local Parts Availability

    I've finally got the correct shop manual and valve cover gaskets coming for the '64 ohv full flow six that's in my '51 Champion. I don't want to wait to get the car on the road but it desperately needs a tune up. Are there ignition parts available at regular parts stores? I have access to NAPA, O'Riely's, and (new in Fairbanks) Auto Zone stores. If I have to, I will wait to order from a Stude vendor but the beautiful early spring weather (+50 and sunny) is making me antsy. The engine has run smoothly for the last 6000 miles but has started pinging?? when I accelerate. I replaced the incorrect spark plugs with proper plugs (thanks Stude Rich) and that helped so I figured a complete tune up is in order. Am I on the right track or should I look elsewhere to fix the pinging problem? Thanks for the help,

    Jeb

  • #2
    Jeb,if it pings at light throttle openings but not at WOT you probably have worn rubbing block on points. reset point gap and dwell then timing and go from there. Doofus

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    • #3
      If your local FLAPS (friendly auto parts supply), whether NAPA, O'reilly, Carquest or whatever, can't procure your tune-up parts, they have no business being in business. They are employing people whose job is to get a paycheck. If they say no, do not let them be unchallenged.
      "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

      Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
      sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

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      • #4
        I haven't had it at WOT but the ping does get worse the more I put my foot into it. I'll try resetting the point gap, dwell, & timing. It certainly can't hurt. In our local FLAPS it's best to bring in your part or a part number for the clerk if you don't want to make a dozen trips to get the right item on a newer model car let alone a classic.

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        • #5
          The tungstun on your contact breaker set is probably burned any way best to get new points and condenser and spark plugs. If the rag is still in you distributor remove it as all it does is put crud inside the distributor. Check the advance plate for excessive movement and this could exasterbate you trying to tune the engine.
          If you car is ugly then it better be fast.....

          65 2dr sedan
          64 2dr sedan (Pinkie)
          61 V8 Tcab
          63 Tcab 20R powered
          55 Commander Wagon
          54 Champion Wagon
          46 Gibson Model A
          50 JD MC
          45 Agricat
          67 Triumph T100
          66 Bultaco Matadore

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          • #6
            This sounds a lot like a Bad Vacuum Advance Unit, but still needs the Spark Timing and Dwell checked.
            StudeRich
            Second Generation Stude Driver,
            Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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            • #7
              sigpic

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              • #8
                Originally posted by StudeRich View Post
                This sounds a lot like a Bad Vacuum Advance Unit, but still needs the Spark Timing and Dwell checked.
                Rich,
                Vacuum advance ONLY works under high vacuum conditions...like light throttle cruise. With your foot in the throttle there is little or no engine vacuum and the vacuum advance is not providing any advance. Also, a "bad vacuum advance unit" generally means a leak in the unit so that it is not providing advance. Pinging is caused by too much advance relative to the fuel grade and/or compression ratio. A non working vacuum advance unit wouldn't contribute to this.

                1. Get dwell within spec first (one degree of dwell is = to one degree of initial advance. If the dwell is off, the initial advance is going to be off)
                2. Time it. I'm not sure what a "depression line" is, but unhook the advance hose to the distributor and plug the end open to the carb. Set the idle speed to spec. Set initial advance to spec. You can play with initial advance AFTER you get it running and driving satisfactorily to see if you can get away with a few more degrees of initial advance.
                3. Check your advance curve against spec. The easiest way to do this is with a dial back timing light. Check the mechanical advance before you re-hook up the vacuum line to the distributor, then after to insure you also see the advance provided by the vacuum advance mechanism.
                Dick Steinkamp
                Bellingham, WA

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hi, do Alaskans get different fuels by season? Is the fuel in your tank from last summer? If you are/were running on "alcohol enhanced" fuel, your gas may be your problem--the alcohol evaporates and the octane rating goes south with it. Check points and dwell and that timing is set to factory. if it "pings" lightly on tip in back timing off 1 degree at a time, may be all you can do with the fuel available. Another trick used to be to get rid of excess carbon deposits in the combustion chamber by using either a light water spray over the carb inlet while holding a fast idle till it stalls, or using something like "Seafoam" to blow out the carbon, but be careful, don't hydraulic the motor. Look at your plugs to see color, should be tan on tips, if black ,carbon build up may be your problem, if white then your running too lean and that's your problem. "Wonders" of modern gasohol, may make you re-jet carb to keep it rich enough to quit pinging.

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                  • #10
                    I have a lot to do this week! I haven't used a timing light and dwell meter for a long time. Relearning will be fun. Our fuel here is regular gas 87 or 90 octane, no alcohol, no oxy-fuel. The engine has hardened valve seats just in case. I'm ordering tune up parts online then I'll follow all the advice on this post. I'll be asking a lot of newbe questions here but I figure you guys (and the service manual) will teach me how to maintain this car. We've had a blast putting about 6000 miles on the car in the last year and a half. From 17 degrees to 70 degrees without any trouble except for a collapsed brake line caused by an emergency brake stomp at 60 mph. This pinging is the first problem we've experienced since getting the car to Alaska so now it's time for me to dig into the tech side of Studedom. The more I learn the more I'll enjoy driving our thirty footer. Thanks for all the help. I'll report back after I try the dwell/timing suggestions.

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                    • #11
                      One last thought. In case you run a 32 RBS carb (as I do), check that the pump jet is not clogged. It is so tiny it happens frequently despite the fuel filter. It's not related to pinging but can empeach you to get good performance.
                      sigpic

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                      • #12
                        Yes Christophe, I do run a 32 RBS carb and I think I still have the tech sheet you provided me a year ago to help me solve a leaking carb. (crud in the float valve). With everyones help I fixed the problem and made the ferry to Alaska by the skin of my teeth. I'll check it when I do the tune up. BTW will I screw up the engine if I drive say 50 miles while it is still pinging? I won't see the parts here for about a week.

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                        • #13
                          I would do my best to reduce the pinging, as it's really bad for the engine. Try switching to the highest octane you can get and/or add some octane booster. It'll only cost a couple of bucks and get you through until you can adjust the timing.
                          Skip Lackie

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                          • #14
                            You don't need parts to adjust the timing. Just knock it back a few degrees until the pinging goes away. You can do a real tune up with the parts arrive. Pinging is "detonation". It can put holes in pistons if allowed to continue.
                            Dick Steinkamp
                            Bellingham, WA

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                            • #15
                              Thanks Dick, I'll time it before I move it. Actually I'll be able to also tune it. I followed this threads advice, went into a local parts store and demanded they find parts for the Stude. I was passed around until I was finally serviced by a fellow who opened one book, flipped a couple of pages, then asked, "Delco or Autolite?". So you were all right. The parts were here all the time I just had to find the person who knew where to find them. BTW, Delco or Autolite? Does it matter?

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