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cleaning up stainless

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  • Body: cleaning up stainless

    So I've been asking members of my local club how to clean up stainless steel. None of them really knew. Here's the process;

    Depending how deep the scratches are you start sanding with about a 150 grit sandpaper. I found that using water made it easier. It may take a lot of sanding with that first piece of sandpaper and plan on changing to a new piece often. But when you absolutely can't see any more of the original scratch move to the next piece of paper, probably 220 grit. It really doesn't matter which grits you use as long as you graduate up the scale. I used 80 grit to start, then 150, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500. Its a lot of hard work. The key is to be sure that the scratches are completely gone before you move to the next grit. Otherwise you will see the original scratch re-appear. By the time you get to the 2000 and 2500 the stainless will appear to be polished, that's when you break out the polishing compound. There are a lot of different brands. I used my fein tool, used for cutting wood, it's an vibrating type of cutting tool that comes with a sanding blade. I put the micro fiber rag over the sanding blade and squirted the stainless polish on the rag and polished away. The stainless came out great!
    Jim Rostron

  • #2
    Originally posted by mnmfive View Post
    So I've been asking members of my local club how to clean up stainless steel. None of them really knew. Here's the process;

    Depending how deep the scratches are you start sanding with about a 150 grit sandpaper. I found that using water made it easier. It may take a lot of sanding with that first piece of sandpaper and plan on changing to a new piece often. But when you absolutely can't see any more of the original scratch move to the next piece of paper, probably 220 grit. It really doesn't matter which grits you use as long as you graduate up the scale. I used 80 grit to start, then 150, 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500. Its a lot of hard work. The key is to be sure that the scratches are completely gone before you move to the next grit. Otherwise you will see the original scratch re-appear. By the time you get to the 2000 and 2500 the stainless will appear to be polished, that's when you break out the polishing compound. There are a lot of different brands. I used my fein tool, used for cutting wood, it's an vibrating type of cutting tool that comes with a sanding blade. I put the micro fiber rag over the sanding blade and squirted the stainless polish on the rag and polished away. The stainless came out great!

    Nice explanation!!!

    treblig

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    • #3
      Dale McPhearson has posted a great 10-part how-to stainless restoration series in the Tech Tips page of the SDC web site. Here are the links to those pages.

      http://studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
      "All attempts to 'rise above the issue' are simply an excuse to avoid it profitably." --Dick Gregory

      Brad Johnson, SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
      Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
      sigpic'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight "Désirée"

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      • #4
        Very informative and in his usual way... very funny.
        His threads on stainless repair were what brought me to the site, long before owning a Stude.
        South Lompoc Studebaker

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        • #5
          Originally posted by rockne10 View Post
          Dale McPhearson has posted a great 10-part how-to stainless restoration series in the Tech Tips page of the SDC web site. Here are the links to those pages.

          http://studebakerdriversclub.com/tips.asp
          Great link, I'm just trying to help people to know how its done and that they can do it. It seems like it's kept as a secrete.
          Jim Rostron

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