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Retorque of heads

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  • Retorque of heads

    I have a question for the forum members that have had a 289 motor rebuilt. After the break in period, how long do you wait to retorque the head bolts and to what pound of pressure?

    Studebakers forever!
    Studebakers forever!

  • #2
    As I recall, the factory did it at a 1000 miles, but even a few 100 should work, just retorque to the shop manual specs. BTW, not as important doing it with the thin steel jobs.

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    • #3
      All the engine needs is a few hot / cold cycles.
      It really has nothing to do with the miles on the engine. It's the engine temp. changes that relaxes everything.

      That JDP hints at...three or four full "cycles" should be plenty.

      Now....DO NOT just pull on the torque wrench. fastener at a the same rotation the manual states..."loosen" a bolt about a half a turn...THEN retorque it.

      Other won't achieve a proper torque...if you just pull on the wrench from where it is now.

      The just a reminder...since you may have already known this!



      • #4
        No, I did not know that, in the past I would retorque bolts after I had drivin the car a week. I would get my manual out and follow the sequential order of bolts until I was done. You are saying I should loosen the bolt and then retighten it. I will do this as it does seem logical. thanks for the info[^] I recently had a thunderbird 352 engine rebuilt and the two rear cly must have been loose because The head gasket blew on bolth sides in the rear car did not have 4oo miles on it. I had the head gaskets replaced on it and will be retorquing those heads after I have done some make up work. Retorque of heads is very important to the backyard hobbist

        Studebakers forever!
        Studebakers forever!


        • #5
          If you loosen all the bolts at once you could warp your head gasket, be careful.


          • #6
            If you used on of the modern "one-shot" gasket materials, don't re-torque.


            • #7
              bkz -
              My note, I think says to do them... "one at a time"!!

              Friction plays too big a part in the way things work. Unless the bolt (or nut) is "very" loose, "starting friction" or as it's known, "stiction" will give false wrench readings. Torque wrenches are dumb animals. That's one reason the auto industry has gone to the radial or anglular method of tightening nuts and bolts.

              And speaking of nuts and bolts...simillar problem there. One way to help...always torque the "nut" rather than the bolt....if you can reach it properly.



              • #8
                Yeah, I see that Mike, I just wanted to reaffirm what you were saying and not have him only thinking about the actual proccess of loosing and retorquing.