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Installing the Edelbrock 140x Tips

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  • Fuel System: Installing the Edelbrock 140x Tips

    This is the Eedelbrock 1403 mounted on the modified WCFB manifold using a 1/2' Composite Spacer. If you use a spacer, you do not really need to cut off the tab at the bottom of the primary shaft..

    Note:I have installed the Top of from an AFB with front fuel inlet.

    wcfbIntake_002 by s blazel, on Flickr

    The Edelbrock Carburetor Spacers 8723


    Which can be found at Summit Racing here ==> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-8723

    The Stock OE Studebaker AFB linkage has about a 2" radius on the primary shaft. (Notice OE cut the bottom tab off)
    wcfbIntake_014 by s blazel, on Flickr

    On the Edelbrock 140x, these are set up for GM type applications. So 2" is about the center of the BIG hole.. (Notice bottom tab is still on)
    wcfbIntake_012 by s blazel, on Flickr

    If you use the smaller hole that is there, it is 0.7" shorter.
    You will need more pedal travel to make the same throttle shaft travel.
    wcfbIntake_011 by s blazel, on Flickr

    Take a 1/2" bolt and a fiber lock nut and tighten it around a washer for some space.
    wcfbIntake_010 by s blazel, on Flickr

    Cut off excess bolt..
    wcfbIntake_009 by s blazel, on Flickr

    Drill and tap for a 1/4-28 thread.
    I drilled it slightly off center to get the exact 2.0125" center to center travel and linkage geometry.
    wcfbIntake_006 by s blazel, on Flickr

    Even though it is a fiber lock nut, I still used a bit of Loctite and tighten it up
    wcfbIntake_007 by s blazel, on Flickr

    Attache your stock OE linkage, Again, using a bit of Loctite. Using this bolt also helped because the the original OE linkage on the AFB was offset away instead of straight like on these Edelbrocks.

    wcfbIntake_004 by s blazel, on Flickr

    Don't just run a hose from the Carb to the vacuum advance.
    It Doesn't take much time to bend up a piece of tubing.

    wcfbIntake_017 by s blazel, on Flickr

    It really make the final install look more OE.

    wcfbIntake_015 by s blazel, on Flickr


    If you are fortunate enough to have an AFB 4 bbl manifold you can skip the part about modifying the WCFB manifold.

    But if you have a WCFB 4bbl manifold, you will need to continue to see what is involved in open up the top port openings.

    Here is an AFB gasket on top of the WCFB manifold. Notice the holes don't really line up. The WCFB has the same hole size for the primary as it does for the secondaries.

    wcfbIntake_018 by s blazel, on Flickr
    wcfbIntake_019 by s blazel, on Flickr

    If you have an Air Die Grinder you can use that and a carbide stone to open and shape the ports to match.

    Here, I glued down the gasket using spray adhesive and I had the four carburetor studs to center it on the top.
    wcfbIntake_022 by s blazel, on Flickr

    After several hours grinding, You can get the basic port shape.
    wcfbIntake_037 by s blazel, on Flickr

    After a few more hours of grinding to open the passage and cut down on the roof of the intake to get a better flow.

    Befor:

    wcfbIntake_024 by s blazel, on Flickr

    After: Notice the right side of the holes on the right.

    wcfbIntake_023 by s blazel, on Flickr

    Do not be afraid to grind into the side. that is around 1/4" thick between the intake side and the heat chamber.

    wcfbIntake_026 by s blazel, on Flickr

    All cleaned up and after a trip to powder coating for Ceramic Coating.

    wcfbIntake_045 by s blazel, on Flickr

    This is a nice picture to show how the top was opened up and angled for smother flow.

    Primaries
    wcfbIntake_060 by s blazel, on Flickr

    Secondaries
    wcfbIntake_028 by s blazel, on Flickr

    Here is a test fit with a Lark/Hawk R1 Carb to test the ope
    wcfbIntake_072 by s blazel, on Flickr

    Since I used the front fuel inlet, I really had no way to show others how to route the fuel line. If i had used the Edelbrock top, I would use as much metal tubing as I could fabricating a line that looked OE.

    Please post pictures of your installations to help other get ideas on how to install these carburetors.
    Last edited by SScopelli; 09-27-2017, 12:11 PM.

  • #2
    Nicely done.
    A word of caution..
    Do not go hog wild on the sides and the ends of the throttle bores.
    Only open up the throttle bores to match the gaskets.
    There are cross ports front and rear, and there are side openings...all part of the heat crossover passages.

    Last edited by DEEPNHOCK; 01-31-2015, 04:28 PM.
    HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

    Jeff


    Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



    Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

    Comment


    • #3
      That is beautiful work Sebastian, I love the opened and ported Carb. Ports. I would have done one thing a LOT easier though I think, lazy I guess.

      I would buy the Grommet that Edelbrock or someone sells to center the Linkage Rod swivel in the large hole in the Throttle Lever. That is just a whole LOT of work to make all those Parts and they do not look very "Factory like".
      If it is a hair too centered, it can be adjusted out with the Linkage adjustment.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner
      SDC Member Since 1967

      Comment


      • #4
        Many just adjust the throttle arm and use the shorter (radius) hole.
        Less pedal movement for a given throttle movement.
        You get used to it quickly.

        In any case, nice work S.S.

        Mike

        Comment


        • #5
          My carb still has the side inlet. Leonard used the nice Edelbrock hard line to get fuel from the front of the carb, but it is 3/8". The line from the fuel pump is 5/16". Does anyone have a neat way of adapting between the two sizes? Right now mine is just jury rigged and I don't trust it.
          Attached Files
          "In the heart of Arkansas."
          Searcy, Arkansas
          1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
          1952 2R pickup

          Comment


          • #6
            To do this RIGHT, you need a Brass adapter fitting to fit the Fuel Pump and make a 3/8" Steel Line from the Fuel Pump to the in line Filter, get a 3/8" In & Out Filter.

            I see no problem with the 3/8" Hose as long as you keep it short.
            The pressure will not be affected, only the Volume slightly.
            Last edited by StudeRich; 02-01-2015, 04:13 PM.
            StudeRich
            Second Generation Stude Driver,
            Proud '54 Starliner Owner
            SDC Member Since 1967

            Comment


            • #7
              Actually yes, 52-Fan. Edelbrock sells a reducer. I called Edelbrock when I was putting everything together for my conversion from 2Brl to 4 brl (1403). After finding out the p/n I went to Summit and ordered it.

              Here are the pictures of my installation. Pretty much the same as SScapelli, except, I used the Summit rubber fitting for the big hole on top. Actually got two, so I have one on front and one on back. Very clean. Also, due to vapor lock problems I was continually plagued with, I decided to add in an old school fuel filter, like on R2's. The one in the picture is the one that is on Bob Johnstone's web site. Little expensive, but I like to keep it old school looking. The only thing I am struggling with right now is the air cleaner. I do not like the Chrome, I want to stay with the old snorkel style. The only problem is that the phonelic spacer raises the carb and air filter 1/2 inch, which then does not allow my hood to close. I am trying to figure out the next step.....

              Here are the pixs of my installation. The part number for the Summit linkage grommets are:

              Carb linkage bushing p/n 555-15220

              I could not find the p/n for the reducer, but if you call Edelbrock tell them what you are trying to do they got the part.

              Mark
              Attached Files
              Last edited by Bullet; 02-01-2015, 04:20 PM. Reason: added some p/n's

              Comment


              • #8
                Awesome updates.

                As Mike Noted, Jegs PN 555-15220.



                Jegs.... ==> http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performan...15220/10002/-1

                An alternative is Moroso #710-64920
                Summit ==> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-64920/overview/

                I've order it, and will be replacing the nut n bolt with this one.

                Also, Since these carburetors have electric chokes, here is a wire diagram I use to apply power to it.
                Since it activates off the Oil Pressure Switch, it will only heat the choke when the engine is running, and not just when you have the switch on.

                wcfbIntake_001 by s blazel, on Flickr

                The diagram shows the use of typical relay found on cars today and how they are numbered on the bottom of the relay.

                Click image for larger version

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                Click image for larger version

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                Last edited by SScopelli; 09-27-2017, 12:13 PM. Reason: Edited per Mikes updates

                Comment


                • #9
                  That is the one I used for the linkage. I used two of the one on the right side. One on each side of the Carb linkage. Sorry, the p/n I gave as from Jegs. Currently $7.99

                  Mark

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I have a WCFB Aluminum intake Manifold. I used this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-2062 I did no machining.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Bullet View Post
                      Actually yes, 52-Fan. Edelbrock sells a reducer. I called Edelbrock when I was putting everything together for my conversion from 2Brl to 4 brl (1403). After finding out the p/n I went to Summit and ordered it.

                      Here are the pictures of my installation. Pretty much the same as SScapelli, except, I used the Summit rubber fitting for the big hole on top. Actually got two, so I have one on front and one on back. Very clean. Also, due to vapor lock problems I was continually plagued with, I decided to add in an old school fuel filter, like on R2's. The one in the picture is the one that is on Bob Johnstone's web site. Little expensive, but I like to keep it old school looking. The only thing I am struggling with right now is the air cleaner. I do not like the Chrome, I want to stay with the old snorkel style. The only problem is that the phonelic spacer raises the carb and air filter 1/2 inch, which then does not allow my hood to close. I am trying to figure out the next step.....

                      Here are the pixs of my installation. The part number for the Summit linkage grommets are:

                      Carb linkage bushing p/n 555-15220

                      I could not find the p/n for the reducer, but if you call Edelbrock tell them what you are trying to do they got the part.

                      Mark
                      Thanks for the info guys. I had considered running a 3/8" line from the pump, but I wasn't sure how that would effect things. The adapter sounds like a possibility too. I want to run a new line and clean everything up before I drive the car much more.
                      "In the heart of Arkansas."
                      Searcy, Arkansas
                      1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
                      1952 2R pickup

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        When I installed a new 1403 to replace the 3589S AFB on the '64 R-1 I hated the thought of running a rubber hose to feed the side fuel inlet, so I removed the front inlet fitting from the AFB and simply installed it on the 1403...........I then bent up a piece of fuel line to run from the glass bowl filter housing to the side of the 1403 carb where the inlet is. If I had not done this, there would be no "support" of the glass bowl housing!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I have a Holley 4011 650 on my 259 at this time (proof of concept project) but will be installing my nice, new 1403 this weekend. The 4011 is a really nice carb to set up but is WAY TOO much to drive with. It did work great on a mild 350 Chev I put in my '66 Cruiser. I had to use 2 adaptors on this install: one to go from the Holley spread bore to the wide base square bore and the second to neck down the wide base to the WCFB small base manifold. I then had to modify my low profile air cleaner to clear the dual fuel lines of the Holley and still fit under the hood. It all works but not so good. I hope the 1403 will fix the problems with the setup I have on the car now.

                          The one thing is I am not so sure that I have to be too concerned with is the fuel line size. The 3/8 inch inlet size is designed to accommodate the max potential of the carb and I will probably never come near much more than about 75% of what this carb can provide. I have some 1/4 inch braided steel line that should look pretty decent and still supply all the gas my car will ever need... If it doesn't I can change it down the road.

                          This car is being prepped as a daily driver and as such will not be getting the "makeover of the century". I do want it to look decent, though, so I will try to make it a clean install.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Thanks for taking the time to document this.
                            Great narrative and pictures!
                            Robert Kapteyn

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Did you use the AFB primary venture clusters? If not the car will run but be overly rich. Spent YEARS tweaking my Hybrid carb and it really isn't an option if you want the vehicle to run properly. The air bleeds of the Edelbrock are too short to protrude through the AFB top and instead of pulling air they are just another port for the fuel to be drawn through.



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