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1950 Champion Engine Rebuild Help

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  • Engine: 1950 Champion Engine Rebuild Help

    I was just out for a drive and I started to hear a loud compression knock. When I let go on the gas the engine sounded fine. When going up a hill she just stopped working and now I can get her to crank but not start. Any suggestions on what to do? I was going to get the engine rebuilt so if its needed now so be it. I am located in Mooresville NC about 20 miles north of Charlotte. Can anyone recommend a good Studebaker engine guy? Any idea what I am looking at in terms of cost? Thanks

    Studebaker Ron......
    Soon to be out of money Studebaker Ron

  • #2
    Ron,

    If you haven't already, pull the distributor cap off and see if the rotor turns when you crank over the engine. The Champions have been known to strip off the teeth on the fiber camshaft gear (that drives off the crankshaft). Sometimes before this happens, a knocking noise that is very hard to diagnose is heard. The noise you heard is probably not the same thing, but worth checking. A new timing gear is a lot cheaper than an engine rebuild!
    Paul
    Winston-Salem, NC
    Visit The Studebaker Skytop Registry website at: www.studebakerskytop.com

    Comment


    • #3
      Hey Paul
      The distributer seems to turn fine. A friend came over and looked over the car and could not find anything wrong. We did a compression test and all six cylinders came in around 75psi. Not sure if this warrants a rebuild but my friend said it should run fine with that kind of compression. We then decided to take off the carb as the car was very flooded from the many attempts to start. I had a rebuilt carb that came with the car se we installed it and magically the car started. I am happy that the motor runs but I have no idea what happened to me on the road today. When she died it would not even turn over and I had to get it towed back to the house. Just for good measure I am going to replace the distributor cap, rotor, points and condenser before the game. Hope she is still doing fine for next weeks meet at Fat Boys in Mooresville.

      Ron

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Studebaker Ron View Post
        Hey Paul
        The distributer seems to turn fine. A friend came over and looked over the car and could not find anything wrong. We did a compression test and all six cylinders came in around 75psi. Not sure if this warrants a rebuild but my friend said it should run fine with that kind of compression. We then decided to take off the carb as the car was very flooded from the many attempts to start. I had a rebuilt carb that came with the car se we installed it and magically the car started. I am happy that the motor runs but I have no idea what happened to me on the road today. When she died it would not even turn over and I had to get it towed back to the house. Just for good measure I am going to replace the distributor cap, rotor, points and condenser before the game. Hope she is still doing fine for next weeks meet at Fat Boys in Mooresville.

        Ron
        My guess is that the carb. float may have stuck or failed and the engine got flooded with fuel causing the stall.
        If you had enough fuel in there to give you a hydraulic lock, it is time to do an oil change followed shortly by another oil change.
        Gary L.
        Wappinger, NY

        SDC member since 1968
        Studebaker enthusiast much longer

        Comment


        • #5
          I was running the Studebaker and heard the knocking noise once more when geving her some gas. This maybe the fiber gear that Paul mentioned above. From the shop manual this looks to be the gear that drives the oil pump and distributor. Any one have to replace this gear? Any suggestions? Looks like it would give a lot more room to work if I pull the radiator first.
          Thanks
          Ron

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Studebaker Ron View Post
            I was running the Studebaker and heard the knocking noise once more when geving her some gas. This maybe the fiber gear that Paul mentioned above. From the shop manual this looks to be the gear that drives the oil pump and distributor. Any one have to replace this gear? Any suggestions? Looks like it would give a lot more room to work if I pull the radiator first.
            Thanks
            Ron
            I've done a few of these over the last 25, or so years. The distance factor doesn't seem to bother to many people, but for you a trip to Florida might prove a deal breaker? A full blown rebuild would run between $3,500.00 and $4,500.00. I've got a 50 model in the shop for an engine rebuild now. Figure it will take me about 3 weeks to complete, working it in with other projects.
            Bo

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            • #7
              It may be an option for me. What area of Florida are you in? Also I got 75 psi in all cylinders when doing a compression test. If the distributor drive gear is off on timing could this lower my compression?

              Thanks
              Ron

              Comment


              • #8
                ^ i wouldn't think so since the spark, etc. is disconnected when doing a compression test.

                75 psi seems low to me, but if it's across the board (all 6 cylinders), i suppose it's ok. others have more knowledge about that.
                Kerry. SDC Member #A012596W. ENCSDC member.

                '51 Champion Business Coupe - (Tom's Car). Purchased 11/2012.

                '40 Champion. sold 10/11. '63 Avanti R-1384. sold 12/10.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Well all cylinders are 75psi and I think the spec is 115psi. Being that my fiber distributor gear is about to fail and the thing leaked oil like a water fountain from the rear main.....on top of oil leaks caused from blow by in the crank case I think I will bite the bullet and get her rebuilt. She runs but I want a dependable driver. Studebaker International offers a major and minor rebuild kit.....something like 900 vs 1900 bucks. Does anyone know of someone else offering a rebuild kit? Price is important but a quality build takes priority. Any advise as I take on this adventure is appreciated. I still need to find someone to build her. I live in NASCAR country.....Race City USA or as I call it Mooresville NC but do not know anyone to call on.

                  Ron

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                  • #10
                    Even if the engine is badly worn it should be running. I have seen engines running with broken connecting rods, huge holes in pistons, and worn off cam lobes. If your engine will not run you have an ignition or a fuel problem. And that means you probably have an ignition problem. That knock could be a bad bearing but it could also be bad timing, an advance problem, or even your dipstick getting smacked by the crankshaft. Be patient, seek help if you need it, and you will save much $$$.

                    Nathan
                    _______________
                    http://stude.vonadatech.com
                    https://jeepster.vonadatech.com

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      pull all the plugs, turn the injun over to blow out the fuel if there is some.
                      Clean,gap, the plugs....
                      Reinstall, verify spark.
                      open the throttle, slight choke. drop in a couple capfuls of gas.
                      (Be careful and have a fire extinguisher handy)
                      crank and see if it tries to run....

                      Report back.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I got her to run just hear the knocking when I give it gas. I believe it's the fiber gear on the oil pump and distributor starting to go. The reason I am thinking about a full rebuild is low compression at 75psi on all cylinders and oil leaks all over the place. I want a dependable car and intend on restoring her.

                        Ron

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Studebaker Ron View Post
                          It may be an option for me. What area of Florida are you in? Also I got 75 psi in all cylinders when doing a compression test. If the distributor drive gear is off on timing could this lower my compression?

                          Thanks
                          Ron
                          Compression should be 120psi at 150rpm. The 75psi across the board is low, and could be explained, in part, by off set timing, allowing the valves to not close in correct sequence, or prematurely, or perhaps not closing completely. Of course, that particular problem could be related to other component problems, too. As long as the values are within 10psi of each other shouldn't be a problem. Does it smoke? Are any of the cylinders excessively wet? Could be it needs rings, or perhaps a valve job? Good oil pressure?

                          Hard to say just what the problem really is until you break it apart and look?

                          I live in North Central Florida about 30 miles West of Ocala, about 35 miles South West of Gainesville, just a little way South of Stephen Cades place.
                          Bo

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                          • #14
                            sounds like the mains are talking to you Ron. when the fiber cam gear goes you are suddenly toothless! Listen hard, Good Luck, Doofus

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Thanks Bo
                              The old Studebaker does smoke a little and when I pulled the plugs for the compression test the back three plugs were wet with oil. Oil Pressure is at 40psi when first started but quickley drops 10 psi when warm.

                              Regards,
                              Ron

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