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  • Rear Axle: pinion seal

    I have a 60 Lark VI wagon. No TT, so is this the Dana 22 axle? Can I just go to NAPA or a rear end rebuilder shop and get a standard pinion seal to replace the original? Mine's just leaking too much for me to want to keep refilling it even though I understand it's a somewhat of a hassle to replace.

  • #2
    Leo its probably a dana27 axle possibly a 23. the number will be on right side webbing between diff. housing and axle tube. look for raised numbers. its a common seal and most FLAPS carry it. be sure to torque pinion nut after installation. torque value is 140-180 ft. lbs. good luck , Doofus

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    • #3
      Originally posted by doofus View Post
      Leo its probably a dana27 axle possibly a 23. the number will be on right side webbing between diff. housing and axle tube. look for raised numbers. its a common seal and most FLAPS carry it. be sure to torque pinion nut after installation. torque value is 140-180 ft. lbs. good luck , Doofus
      Oops! 22, 27, 23, whatever it takes.... I'll look for the number, thank you. I've got to refill it this evening. I hope that's right side facing the back of the car. :-\ I remember reading all about the high torque number, as well as the finagling to get at the seal. A tip I was advised from a fellow club member was to paint indicator marks on the nut before removing, in order to see when you get it torqued back as it was from the get go.

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      • #4
        The Studebaker Vendors sell the correct Seal, all the Dana Spicer Models are the same by the way.
        I am looking at the application list our Studebaker Parts Wholesaler prints on all the parts boxes.
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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        • #5
          Use some thread locker or stake the nut in place -or both- when you are finished, just to be sure...

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          • #6
            OK looking from the back, while you refill the diff. look for raised number. you will need thin wall 11/8 socket IMS. also to remove seal a seal remover sometimes works or a pair of sheet metal screws threaded into seal then pry under heads a little at a time. worst case scenario force thin sharp chisel under seal flange and work the seal out. sometimes you have to destroy the seal to remove it. R2 is right with locktite on threads. also a large pipe wrench on yoke helps. let yoke turn till its against floor then torque it . Have fun , Doofus

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            • #7
              Don't forget the paper gasket under the seal, or it will leak. When the nut is off the yoke, take a center punch and mark the splines so they go back in the same place.
              A very thin film of permatex on the splines will prevent seepage around the splines.
              Bez Auto Alchemy
              573-318-8948
              http://bezautoalchemy.com


              "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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              • #8
                Originally posted by 63 R2 Hawk View Post
                Use some thread locker or stake the nut in place -or both- when you are finished, just to be sure...
                Thank you for the reminder and advice.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by bezhawk View Post
                  Don't forget the paper gasket under the seal, or it will leak. When the nut is off the yoke, take a center punch and mark the splines so they go back in the same place.
                  A very thin film of permatex on the splines will prevent seepage around the splines.
                  Thank you. Noted.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by doofus View Post
                    OK looking from the back, while you refill the diff. look for raised number. you will need thin wall 11/8 socket IMS. also to remove seal a seal remover sometimes works or a pair of sheet metal screws threaded into seal then pry under heads a little at a time. worst case scenario force thin sharp chisel under seal flange and work the seal out. sometimes you have to destroy the seal to remove it. R2 is right with locktite on threads. also a large pipe wrench on yoke helps. let yoke turn till its against floor then torque it . Have fun , Doofus
                    Yea, fun. Well, it should be a once in a car ownership project.

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                    • #11
                      Well, it's a 27 rear end.

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                      • #12
                        If you are in a pinch and can't wait for the seal to come in the mail head on down to your local auto parts store and ask for a pinion seal for a Dana 44 or 27, as the are the same seal. They should have one on the shelf. They range in price from $15 to $30. On eBay you could pick one up for less than $10 but you will have to wait and you always have to watch out you get the right one and it's not old stock.

                        Buying from our Studebaker vendors you can be assured you will get the right one.

                        Len

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                        • #13
                          I am not averse to ordering from Studebaker vendors, but for something like this, I would prefer to just go into the NAPA store and get the right part right then. I do have a bucket list of other items I will be ordering from SI, so it's not like they'll be neglected.

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