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Champion Pan Gasket

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  • Engine: Champion Pan Gasket

    I have a 1953 Champion engine and am replacing the 4 part oil pan gasket with the engine in the truck. The rear gasket part is a very tight squeeze to fit into the slot. I'm going to apply a thin coat of Permatex High Temp gasket maker and hope that allows me to get the part in the slot. The front part is another interesting task because the service manual says to remove the spacer block, repair the front cover gasket that you just damaged and then install the front pan gasket with the spacer block. Well, I'm going to try fitting the front gasket right on the spacer block using Permatex as "glue". Has anyone tried that? Finally, for the side gaskets, I'm going to coat them with Permatex on all surfaces hoping it will prevent leakage. Has the complete coating technique helped you folks achieve a leak free cork gasket. Please provide your thoughts on all of my plans. I want to get this done right the first time. Thanks very much.

  • #2
    If you are using the Silicone Permatex, a very LIGHT coat is going to provide the least "Squirm" and best Seal when tightened.

    Also, let the Block side Cure, before coating the Pan side and installing the pan Snug, NOT tight. After 24 Hours cure time you can torque to spec, not much tighter than they were previously.

    On the Six, I believe the recommended method is to cut the bottom part of the Spacer Plate to Timing Cover Gasket off and replace it with the same from a new Timing Cover Gasket Set.

    The same method should work on the Filler Block to Timing Cover Mounting Plate as well.

    This is what I remember from 40 years ago when I rebuilt the 1st. and Last 6 Cyl. I owned, so please adjust to conform to the Shop Manual Procedure, but using Todays Tech. Materials.
    StudeRich
    Second Generation Stude Driver,
    Proud '54 Starliner Owner
    SDC Member Since 1967

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    • #3
      I can't claim this is the best way to do it but here we are 5 years later and no leaks so far:
      5/22/2009 to 6/16/2009 I found the missing bit of ground strap under the bolt I should have removed from the frame of the car. I cleaned this up and soldered it back in. Time for the easiest points…


      Nathan
      _______________
      http://stude.vonadatech.com
      https://jeepster.vonadatech.com

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      • #4
        Here is a point of interest. The rear gasket appears to be square at the ends but it isn't. It is a slight rectangle. When inserting the gasket into the groove, you want to be sure you are inserting the narrower part of the gasket because you'll never get the wider part into the groove.

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