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  • Engine: 63 avanti tuning

    this is my first stud. and first supercharged car. orig. motor rebuilt by pro. and back in car. i am not running with s/c at this time. i cannot get eng. to get near 4 deg. btdc. it will die a about 20 deg. i am useing all tech provided in workshop man. any info will be greatly appreciated. car is stock. i am onlu useing one set of points

  • #2
    Make sure your vacuum advance unit is disconnected from the carb, and the line plugged. Make sure your idle speed is low enough that the centrifugal advance is not coming into play. Lastly don't worry about factory settings, give the engine what it wants, and as long as it does not detonate r ping you will be fine. The factory specs are just a guideline and it is not something set in stone. every engine is different in what works best.
    Bez Auto Alchemy
    573-318-8948
    http://bezautoalchemy.com


    "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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    • #3
      Also we are not using 1963 103 Octane Leaded Fuel anymore either, and that will affect the Timing settings quite a bit.

      Is it possible that the Dist. Rotor is a tooth or two off of Number One Plug wire, when the Engine is in #1 Firing position?
      Remember it is COUNTER-CLOCKWISE Rotation!

      A Vacuum leak somewhere like the PCV Port at the back of the Carb.?
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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      • #4
        Originally posted by charlotte1963 View Post
        i cannot get eng. to get near 4 deg. btdc. it will die a about 20 deg.
        If I understand this correctly, you need AT LEAST 20 degrees BTDC for the car to run. Any less and the engine dies.

        If that is correct, something is wrong.

        Cam installed 1 or more teeth off
        Firing order set wrong (dizzy rotates opposite of Chevy)
        Timing light on wrong plug lead.
        Timing marks (tab or dampener) incorrect
        Dick Steinkamp
        Bellingham, WA

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        • #5
          If the car is a R2 it should be dual points.
          Ask Dave Thibeault
          http://www.studebaker-info.org/vendo...tbow0513b.html

          Robert Kapteyn

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          • #6
            tks for info. chas.

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            • #7
              Both R1 and R2 should have a dual-point distributor...R3 and R4 engines came with transistorized ignitions.
              Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, cocky and in general a malcontent.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by charlotte1963 View Post
                /Cut/i am onlu useing one set of points
                Well this could be your answer right there! If this is a stock Dual Point Distributor, it is not going to run with only 1 set of points in there.
                StudeRich
                Second Generation Stude Driver,
                Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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                • #9
                  It will run fine on one set of points, Rich. You just won't be able to get all the dwell you can get with both.

                  Generally, that's how the gap is set. Disconnect one set (cardboard between the points works), set the gap with a dwell meter then do the other set.

                  Also, your "one tooth off" on the dizzy gear theory doesn't make sense to me. That wouldn't stop you from rotating the dizzy to get the proper initial advance.
                  Dick Steinkamp
                  Bellingham, WA

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