Clutch / Torque Converter: Can I Change Clutch and Pressure Plate Size?

[jozek]

I am changing my worn clutch & pressure plate, which are 10"x11/8" spline w/2" facing. Can I go to the 101/4" clutch and pressure plate, since it has the same flywheel bolt pattern as the 10"? Thanks for your comments!

[StudeRich]

Sure, the same Flywheel is used for both 259 Engines with 10 Inch and 289 Engines with 10 1/4 or 10 1/2 Inch Discs and Pressure Plates.
If this is a 6 Cyl. Engine or a Truck I do not know.

[jozek]

It was originally a 259, repowered with the present 289. I would like to put back the largest clutch/pp that will fit. StudeRich, it sounds like I could go with 101/2", right?

[StudeRich]

I am pretty sure if you lay a 10 1/2 Inch Disc. on the flywheel or measure it, you will see that it fits fine on a '56 to '64 Flywheel. Please resurface your Flywheel and replace the Release (Throughout) Bearing.

[jozek]

StudeRich, Will do and thanks for the info.

[JoeHall]

A 10.25" or 10.5" disc is a good thing, but I highly recommend you go with a standard duty PP, instead of heavy duty. Unless you are looking to overly develop the muscles in your left leg, and change broken linkage components regularly.

Recently, someone posted an interchange for a standard duty interchange PP here; I believe it was for an AMC or Jeep, but you could do a search of our archives to be sure. It looked like the best candidate for interchange I had seen to date.

You can also go with a diaphragm PP, with some custom grinding on the insides of the bell housing, and a specially constructed t/o bearing. I put one in the 62GT about 28,000 miles ago, and it works OK, but not really worth the hassle. Next time, I'd just go with the AMC or Jeep one mentioned above.

Under NO circumstances would I ever go with a heavy duty PP again. Been there-done that.

[SN-60]

I remember walking into my local FLAPS years ago with the disc and pressure plate from my '56 Golden Hawk (Packard)....Thought it was going to be a big hassle to get new parts...But the counter man took one look and said.."No problem, that's an 11" Ford truck clutch"!

[JoeHall]

I remember walking into my local FLAPS years ago with the disc and pressure plate from my '56 Golden Hawk (Packard)....Thought it was going to be a big hassle to get new parts...But the counter man took one look and said.."No problem, that's an 11" Ford truck clutch"!

Ed,
That rings a bell, also some late 1950s Corvette clutches will fit 56J, IIRC.

For the OP here, I also echo Rich's suggestion about re-surfacing the flywheel, and a new t/o bearing is usually a good idea.

[jozek]

Thanks Joe & ED. I was leaning toward the HD pp, but will stay away from it. Valuable advice from you guys,as usual.

[jackb]

almost all the complaints here on clutches are by way of broken or severely worn linkages. OD helps on these parts too....

[Skybolt]

I was able to use a pressure plate for a 60's Impala 327. Does not look HD because of the springs, or lack of them, used but I wanted a bit more grip than stock. I used it with a 10 1/2" clutch disc. I can always change the levers around to get a little lighter pedal pressure.

Len.

[JoeHall]

almost all the complaints here on clutches are by way of broken or severely worn linkages. OD helps on these parts too....

I agree, and the root cause of linkage failure is a HD pressure plate. As designed, the linkage never was up to the task. When I ran one in a GT for maybe 50,000 miles, seemed like every time I turned around another linkage component would fail. I went through 2 or 3 of the "couplers", most of us are familiar with, and learned to carry one in the car. But after getting rid of the HD setup, I never needed another coupler (but still carry one to this day). That was maybe 20 years ago.

IMHO, the only use for a HD setup in a Stude would be for racing.

[SN-60]

Straying off course here a bit....I clearly remember how on the 56J model the bellhousing had to go up with the transmission after a clutch job. Try as I might, I never could get that funky Packard throwout bearing pullback spring to stay in place properly inside the bellhousing if I tried to install the bell first, and then put the transmission up....A BIG job for one guy laying on his back in January!!

[ed ellis]

While you are at it I suggest spot welding the "levers" on the clutch linkage. They were brazed on at the factory and after a half a century or more they are prone to failure. When they slip on the shaft nothing happens when the clutch pedal is depressed.

Worse its impossible to guess exactly where they were on the shaft so your car is sitting while you dig up another.

[JoeHall]

While you are at it I suggest spot welding the "levers" on the clutch linkage. They were brazed on at the factory and after a half a century or more they are prone to failure. When they slip on the shaft nothing happens when the clutch pedal is depressed.

Worse its impossible to guess exactly where they were on the shaft so your car is sitting while you dig up another.

I could not agree more. Spot welding those "ears" should be standard procedure whenever the tranny is removed, if not done already.