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Transmission/clutch issues.....1961 lark 6 cylinder

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  • Clutch / Torque Converter: Transmission/clutch issues.....1961 lark 6 cylinder



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    I am going to install an OD tranny very soon but was hoping for any/all input from the Forum before I pull it out and start the new install, just so I dont miss something that I should check or know about.
    thanks for your time reading this lengthy note.
    Gregor
    Last edited by BShaw; 03-23-2015, 08:04 AM. Reason: moved to Tech Forum and added Prefix for clarity and ease of others to benefit from the thread

  • #2
    When you take it apart get your flywheel surfaced, reground, and put NEW motor mounts in!

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    • #3
      I put a brand new flywheel in when I rebuilt the motor, about 600 miles ago. Do you think I should still have it re-surfaced? Thanks for your input "autoradiotech"

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      • #4
        Apparently either there is no other answer than having the flywheel re-surfaced (even thought it was purchased new) and to buy motor mounts or no one else has experience this problem? (hard to believe).
        IS THERE ANYONE ELSE OUT THERE WITH ANY OTHER EXPERIENCES LIKE THIS OR SHOULD I PULL THE NEW FLYWHEEL, GET A NEW THROW-OUT BEARING, AND BUY NEW MOTOR MOUNTS?

        tHANKS FOR ANY OTHER IDEAS.

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        • #5
          Is it possible that the face of the flywheel and/or clutch is getting oil on it? Even though the engine is rebuilt and the flywheel is new, is the rear seal seeping oil. As the engine spins, if there is oil seepage, it gets slung onto the clutch/flywheel surface causing "wet/dry/wet/dry/wet/dry" areas on the flywheel surface. Chattering and jerking is the result. Were these symptoms immediately noticed upon rebuilding the engine, or have these symptoms developed as you have driven the 600ish miles. If it developed during driving, I'll bet you're slinging oil onto the flywheel. If it's been that way since rebuild day 1, I'd go with a bad clutch throw out bearing , clutch spring or the clutch disc itself may be bad. Years of stress and heat can do weird things to a clutch that may not be visible to the naked eye. Also, possibly, the old clutch disc may be saturated with oil from before the rebuild. Oily clutch -vs- dry flywheel=your symptoms. Time and use may dry out the clutch if this is the case and correct your issue.

          Comment


          • #6
            I am sorry to hear of all your issues Greg. Issues like this are very difficult to analyze from afar.

            (1) As said the Flywheel COULD be wet.

            (2) The "New" Pressure Plate could be Chinese "Junk" I have talked many, many times here about NOT trusting a "New" Pressure Plate EVER! Get it rebuilt by a trusted local rebuilder always better than offshore junk. AND you have somewhere to go with your problems if it is not right.

            It is very critical that the release "Fingers" be perfectly evenly adjusted to get an even applying clutch.

            (3) The spring that retains the T/O Brg. is very important to be fastened to same AND the Clutch Release Shaft "Arms/Levers".


            (4) There could be insufficient free travel or missing Pedal pull-back spring causing the T/O Brg. to spin.


            (5) A NOS or older stock T/O Brg. can have dried out grease, causing noise.


            Take a very GOOD look in there before taking anything out of the Clutch Housing!

            And definitely get those Rear Engine Mounts that "look OK", replaced.
            Last edited by StudeRich; 09-18-2014, 08:05 PM.
            StudeRich
            Second Generation Stude Driver,
            Proud '54 Starliner Owner

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            • #7
              Thanks for everything folks, I will follow your input. I purchased the pressure plate, and clutch new from and American company but that in itself doesnt mean much. I'm not sure of the throw out bearing.
              This problem began at day one. NEW everything in that bell housing including clutch. No oil seepage. The only problem that I have had along with this shudder has been the fact that I have never been able to get the clutch pedal back to the top, in other words, it is down about 1/4 way of travel below the brake pedal and will not fully return. I have never been able to adjust the clutch enough to make it return fully.
              The shudder happened from day one after the rebuild. The vibration in the pedal like the throw out bearing just started a few hundred miles ago. I drive this everyday and it now has about 800 miles on the rebuilt engine.
              Thanks again, any input always appreciated.

              Comment


              • #8
                you can bring that pedal up by adjusting the long rod to the left of the column....., also look at return spring length = 10 inches I think...

                Comment


                • #9
                  Well...just a few thoughts from an old tinkerer (under the shade tree). Not knowing the history of how you came by the car...do you know if it still has its original bellhousing? Did you check it for "run-out," when you were reassembling? Studebaker engines have to be "dialed-in" to make sure the components are concentrically aligned. Symptoms you describe could be the result of not being properly "dialed-in."

                  Also, as has been mentioned, check your motor mounts. I'm not sure of the '61, some vehicles have multiple mounting holes on the mounts. Hopefully, if this is the case, you got that right. In addition, the "wobbly" motion in your drive train, transmitted to the shift column, could be drive shaft related. You could have a u-joint going bad, drive shaft "out of phase" (balance) or a bent drive shaft. Please let us know what you find as you work through these suggestions. We can all benefit from this kind of information.
                  John Clary
                  Greer, SC

                  SDC member since 1975

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    My friend George asked me to post this.. For what it's worth, he works on Studes every single day and has been for 40 years.

                    There is a guy on the Forum in Jax who is having trouble with the clutch on his OHV six after doing a lot to try and fix it..
                    You might want to let him know that I have been down that road several times with OHV engines over the years; it is important that he uses top quality parts and checks the 'usual suspects' but one of the main 'culprits' I have found is that the pressure plates available are wrong for the Stude application and have the incorrect coil springs in them or many times too many springs in them... I forget the spacing in the plates but all the 'holes' should NOT have a spring in them... The springs should be 'soft' and not 'heavy duty'. The heavy duty (or too many) ones make for an 'on off' situation that makes for shuddering or chattering..
                    Even with everything dead on there is always a tad of shudder with a coil spring type pressure plate, but it can be made 'tolerable' or almost nonexistent.

                    Hope this helps!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Matt...thanks for posting that information. I've not worked on, nor owned a '61 with that set up. Never bought a new pressure plate for one. If I had, I would have trusted the "new" one to be spot on and then twisted myself in knots attempting to diagnose and solve the resulting problem.

                      Whether or not this solves this particular problem...this is truly where this forum and those who participate, is a valuable resource. Give my thanks to your friend. Your willingness to help him share this information is appreciated. Thanks for checking in.
                      John Clary
                      Greer, SC

                      SDC member since 1975

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Matt and jclary,
                        thanks for your input. I have no idea of how to "dial in" these components so that might be a problem. I aligned them as best as possilbe but that might not mean much. As far as the wrong coil springs, I am a bit like John, I have assumed that they were spot on and would not know how to check them anyway So that leaves me with MUCHO stuff to check and recheck before installing this new OD transmission and I thought it was going to be a piece of cake.
                        Believe me, IF I had a decent tranny/clutch mechanic in this town, I would take it to him but there are none to my knowledge so I really dont know how to get this thing "dialed in" nor check for the correct coils in the clutch, etc.
                        I do know it is the original bell housing.
                        thanks again, now I'm not sure when i will tackle this since I have to drive it everyday. I figured a tranny swap would have been easier but this shuddering is very, very aggravating especially when the car is totally re-finished.....bummer.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Gregor View Post
                          Matt and jclary,
                          thanks for your input. I have no idea of how to "dial in" these components so that might be a problem. I aligned them as best as possilbe but that might not mean much. As far as the wrong coil springs, I am a bit like John, I have assumed that they were spot on and would not know how to check them anyway So that leaves me with MUCHO stuff to check and recheck before installing this new OD transmission and I thought it was going to be a piece of cake.
                          Believe me, IF I had a decent tranny/clutch mechanic in this town, I would take it to him but there are none to my knowledge so I really dont know how to get this thing "dialed in" nor check for the correct coils in the clutch, etc.
                          I do know it is the original bell housing.
                          thanks again, now I'm not sure when i will tackle this since I have to drive it everyday. I figured a tranny swap would have been easier but this shuddering is very, very aggravating especially when the car is totally re-finished.....bummer.
                          Well...you and Matt are less than two hours from one another. (Depending on road construction, mayhem, etc.) If his mechanic "Buddy" is close by, perhaps you could share some info that could save you a lot of trouble. Get the part number of that replacement pressure plate and see if it jives with the one's Matt's friend has had problems. If the place you bought from has one in stock (my experience is...rarely) you could examine that one without having to rip yours out. Keep us updated.
                          John Clary
                          Greer, SC

                          SDC member since 1975

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            George is here in Tallahassee. Just a couple hours of driving across I-10.

                            He has a fully equipped shop and he does this stuff every day. He even helps me with my old British junk.

                            BTW, his nicest Stude is a '63 Lark 6 that he converted to overdrive a few years back. There are a few other Larks in his boneyard too.

                            My email is mbstude (at) gmail (dot) com. Shoot me a note and I can put the two of you in touch if you'd like. I'm sure he'd be happy to help however he can.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Good grief, Matt. You gotta git outta that junk yard slum and find a buddy with some "top shelf" stash.

                              (this post was typed with envy and a heavy dose of sarcasm)
                              John Clary
                              Greer, SC

                              SDC member since 1975

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